Clear Clutch Covers/How do you stop them from LEAKING!!!!

Yep.. the key to the stuff is to let it cure for 24 hours.. it is thermally sensitive and will quite literally "melt" out.. (GM developed this sealant as GMS) as soon as you have the unit reassembled.. clean off the excess in the "visible" areas..

do not worry about the spots you can not see, the stuff will stay put..

Thank you kindly sir!
 
personally i use the orings with no leaks going on two years, i have took it apart and changed leds once, used new o rings. overall the best sealer is the stuff gm makes, expensive but it will seal up anything. agreed curing and cleaning is the most important part after a oil leak.
 
personally i use the orings with no leaks going on two years, i have took it apart and changed leds once, used new o rings. overall the best sealer is the stuff gm makes, expensive but it will seal up anything. agreed curing and cleaning is the most important part after a oil leak.
GMS (General motors sealant) is the same compound as the Ultra's line.. We used to get it in full caulking gun cartridges (I was a heavy line tech for GM) GMS only came in that orange color..

Another great product was the "anaerobic" sealer.. Is all we used on machined case halves (transaxles)
 
Are you definitely confident you have found the origination point? A ton of sealant won't fix it if it is leaking in a different place.
 
personally i use the orings with no leaks going on two years, i have took it apart and changed leds once, used new o rings. overall the best sealer is the stuff gm makes, expensive but it will seal up anything. agreed curing and cleaning is the most important part after a oil leak.

+1 on the O rings with no leaks.. :thumbsup:
 
go down to your local auto parts store.. buy a tube of "Ultra Black"

disassemble the unit entirely and make sure it is spotless clean (any oil reside will probably foul the repair, soap and water are fine, there are brakecleans that are fine but you need to know which is which.. stick to the soap and water)

on the housing put a nice bead of the Ultra Black on the housing, lay the lexan down, and then the cover.. put a small amount of the Ultra black on the screw threads as well..

assemble and allow to set for 24 hours.. should be just fine..

DO NOT USE regular gaset silicone, the stuff is destroyed by oil.. The ultra black is a different compound and will stand up to the oil.. (but will melt if not allowed to fully cure before use)

if you give up, ship me the cover and I will fix it for you..

Thanks, once again the Org comes through.
 
One last question, do the screws for the clutch cover need to be tighted to a certain torque of do you just make them tight. (Newb question :laugh:)
 
Im my experience with the rtv black or now we use a two part w/ mix tip (ford rear end sealer) on oil pans, intakes, and rear ends for race cars...we put a good bead on the mating surface and let it set for a few minutes...then snug it up...then 10-12 hrs later torque it to desired spec.

Home depot also has a silver / aluimnum urathne sealer that comes in normal caulk tube size tha many engine builders use...it is a pain to remove...you need a razor blade and some scotch brite discs to bring it back for a reassemble.
 
cool bike my clutch mod is not leaking I hope it dont

Ongoing Family Photos 080.jpg
 
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