RedBull
Registered
HI .
I am using the
MTC Gen 2
clutch . . .
You still need the inner hub
and the outer cover that
you can get in carbon fiber !
Clutch Hub replacement or clutch mod ?
- Thread starter c10
- Start date
My mechanic recommends that billet APE hub for my application also , I will be getting one soon . 
ali123
Banned
the mtc complete assembly I believe comes with a billet inner hub.My mechanic recommends that billet APE hub for my application also , I will be getting one soon .
I got told recently that a full lock up clutch , say like a trick fully adjustable Hays , you can't just grab the clutch after full throttle in a full gear run , that you have to let it ( motor ) run down to low revs , before re engaging the clutch to slow bike . Is this correct , and how do you compensate for street ridden bike ?
ali123
Banned
The best and fastest bikes in the world right now use this GEN2 multistage ENGINE-DRIVEN lockup clutch.... and the best part about this clutch is that it is COMPLETELY streetable… it will function just like a stock clutch.... EXACTLY like a stock clutch..... only difference is that.... If I rev this bike up over 4 grand from a dead stop... then just THROW the lever.... IT SLIPS ITSELF.... allllllllll the way almost through 1st gear aand progressively locks up.... with the throttle pinned... the clutch makes it look like I REALLY know what im doing.... I just started doing this at the end of the season... it is UNBELIEVABLE.... maybe @POWERHOUSE can explain exactly how it works.... it is engine driven...………..... trick stuff FOR SURE.... full slider clutches are not streetable…. this clutch is 1000 percent street friendly.... it is truly an amazing piece for sure.. im more Impressed with this clutch than u can believe..... shift into second gear and it is a stocker again.... and if u put it in first and dont rev the engine beyond 4 grand from a stop... it is JUST like a stocker..... I was beyond impressed.
Well that sounds awesome , on your thing even more so , I really like that trick looking setup , I am going to learn some more about this for street use !! 
Innovate803
Registered
At what cost?
Mr Brown
Registered
2k +/-
There’s no need for a $2k clutch on a stock street bike. Clutch mod is really the only thing that’s “needed”.
Street strip turbo bikes I use to always use 2 stage lock ups, but ever since the NLR boost clutch came out, those have been installed on just about every bike to leave my shop that required a clutch. I’m going to try one on my grudge bike before I order a slider for it.
Street strip turbo bikes I use to always use 2 stage lock ups, but ever since the NLR boost clutch came out, those have been installed on just about every bike to leave my shop that required a clutch. I’m going to try one on my grudge bike before I order a slider for it.
Mr Brown
Registered
Are the NLR clutches better than a hand slider? Or better value for money?
Nastee
Registered
Round about $2300-2500. c10 I put Carpenter setup on mine and it works just like the Brocks/APE unit just not as fancy. Now pay the extra money if going for weight which is a major for you. Will say the Carpenter is well thought out simple & flat out works which is why I purchased & was very impressed .
Innovate803
Registered
Holy moly, I will pass on something like that for now.
I can’t say for sure yet, that’s why I want to try one. But in theory it should work as good, but I think even better.
A little back story if you’re not familiar with a slider is this. There’s two types. A hand slider, and a standard slider. You don’t launch the bike with the clutch lever, it’s all rpm based. Some guys choose a hand slider in the even you lock the engine up, you can pull the clutch lever to disengage the trans and safely come to a more controlled stop.
Basically a slider is like removing the clutch and replacing it with a torque converter from automatic trans. You set them up based off of engine stall speed. Much like matching a stall converter in a car to a bigger cam for example. You adjust this by changing out the stall springs. Once you get your stall speed set correctly, then you play with the weights on the arms to get your full lock up.
They work great, extremely smooth, consistent launches because you’re taking out the rider variable of throwing the lever- which is why sliders aren’t allowed in pro street class racing.
There’s a downside to them. On a turbo grudge bike stall speeds are usually around 7-8,000 rpm. So that means for a decent burnout, you’re hanging out around 9k rpm. If you hang just at or right below stall speed the clutch is slipping, and wearing excessively. There’s also no way around it, you absolutely have to get pushed back from the end of the track.
Now on to the NLR clutch. You have to use the secondary channel on the AMS2000 and use Co2. You set the ams to start applying pressure to the clutch based off of engine rpm to launch. That’s how you adjust the stall speed. Then off another portion of the map you can ramp in more clutch pressure based off of rpm, time, boost, speed, whatever you like.
But here’s why I really like the idea of a boost clutch on the grudge bike. Since I have the 5 position selector switch, I can set a low stall speed for the burnout. Start applying pressure at 1800rpm, and full pressure by 2200 rpm so I don’t have to rev it to 8-9k with little load on the engine. That will also help keep engine temps down as the bike won’t have a cooling system on it. (Running on M1 alcohol) Pull to the line, hit the selector switch and instantly the clutch is ready to race. If the bike had enough fuel capacity, and cooling system I could also use the burnout setting to ride the bike back to the pits. With all that adjustability, you don’t even need to run clutch springs.
Not to turn people away from the NLR set up, but it’s an extremely simple and effective street clutch. $1300, you don’t need a $500 quick access cover, and no trimming of the fairing required. The pressure ratio is something stupid like for every 1 psi you add to the clutch, it increases pressure plate pressure something like 200lbs. So they hold any power you can throw at them using wore out oem clutch springs. So for probably 90% of my customers that just like to do big power highway pulls, or LSR stuff, the pressure source for the clutch is hooked directly to the plenum. Another huge benefit is as soon as you chop throttle, you can pull the clutch lever in unlike conventional lock up style clutches.
But then if you’re going to the track you can swap springs, and put it on Co2 (not a necessity though) and have all the benefits off a multi stage lock up or slider. They can do literally anything.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That sounds like the best potential street setup , and not such a killer $ hit !!
That sounds like the best potential street setup , and not such a killer $ hit !!
I believe it to be. It can also be ran off an AMS-1000 aux channel but you don’t have as much flexibility.
It doesn’t get much simpler.
Probably still one of the best and affordable street/strip clutches for a high performance bike is the original MTC multistage, at $1200. It does everything the Gen 2 multistage does and doesn't cost $2300. The difference - the original multistage works off of transmission rpm and does not require the more expensive outer basket required by the Gen 2 version. Seb's boost assisted clutch is not as streetable as a multistage, and won't work on the dyno. I still have the original multistage in my 600+ street Busa and Ali is correct - it works just like the stocker, and locks up when necessary. Keep in mind this original design has been around and used in the racing world successfully since the 80s. Anything below 350 rear wheel can get by with a standard clutch with big springs, you just have to put up with the additional lever pressure. The multistage actually has softer primary springs, a little deceiving at first. A great clutch all around.
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