clutch issues again

@all
(and @James Shabnow )

i read the starting post again
and a main question came up to me - did i understand his (your) problem wrong?

does (1) the clutch disengage earlier and earlier the more often he (you) pull the the lever (til the moment the clutch stay disengaged and starts to slip even he didn´t touch the lever)
or
is it the opposite (2), means the more often he (you) pull the later the clutch disengages (and the fluids level in the reservoir sink also a little bit)?

in case (1) i´m sure the relief bore is crusted/locked (pressure in the system increases and disengages the clutch at the end / after 10 miles)
in case (2) i guess the slave is somewhere faulty / cracked / seal damaged - then it would leak and after a while DOT drops down and a puddle forms under the bike´s left side.

so i stay with my hint from above
@James Shabnow
if there is no drop (or puddle) visible, try any other clutch pump with same piston dia (5/8)
thatfor you need neither pressed air nor ultra sonic bath
only bleed the clutch as usual and you´ll see very fast / within your 10 miles if the clutch work fine or not.
 
Last edited:
rubbersidedown said:
When cleaning parts with tiny passageways drop it in an' ultrasonic. For tuff cleans you can suspend a container of carb/injector cleaner in the ultra sonic machine with the part bathing in that.The waves will still penetrate the part. If that doesn't clean up the holes 100% throw the part away. These tiny holes/jets/passageways in carbs,masters,etc can develope tiny fissures that can't be repaired. These tiny almost microscopic imperfections can cause airflow to be altered to the point where the carb just can't be tuned 100% perfect,or in this case block the flow of Dot 4. I have never had to clean this hole in a master cylinder ever to get a good bleed. But,ya never know.
Rubb.
Click to expand...
I love it when ya talk technical like that lol !
 
Berlin Germany said:
@all
(and @James Shabnow )

i read the starting post again
and a main question came up to me - did i understand his (your) problem wrong?

does (1) the clutch disengage earlier and earlier the more often he (you) pull the the lever (til the moment the clutch stay disengaged and starts to slip even he didn´t touch the lever)
or
is it the opposite (2), means the more often he (you) pull the later the clutch disengages (and the fluids level in the reservoir sink also a little bit)?

in case (1) i´m sure the relief bore is crusted/locked (pressure in the system increases and disengages the clutch at the end / after 10 miles)
in case (2) i guess the slave is somewhere faulty / cracked / seal damaged - then it would leak and after a while DOT drops down and a puddle forms under the bike´s left side.

so i stay with my hint from above
@James Shabnow
if there is no drop (or puddle) visible, try any other clutch pump with same piston dia (5/8)
thatfor you need neither pressed air nor ultra sonic bath
only bleed the clutch as usual and you´ll see very fast / within your 10 miles if the clutch work fine or not.
Click to expand...
It disengages earlier and earlier until it is instant or not engaging with full pressure causing slipping. I will take the master apart again today and pull the tab back to check the other hole under the metal cover. Hoping to find it crusted closed.
 
This has t
harky said:
View attachment 1625327
This is a brake master cylinder i had laying about , same principle and design as clutch . the ” tab “ can be bent out of the way to clean / clear the port
ultrasonic is great —— not everyone has access, compressed air is the normal workshop practice , ( not everyone has access as well )
standard working practice would be
1 remove & dismantle. cylinder
2 wash in water , yes. water , brake fluid is water soluble
3 blow off with air , inspect / evaluate. , at this point we are looking closely at this port ( because of this particular problem )
washing the cylinder in alcohol ( mentholated spirits ) and blowing off thoroughly
if you don’t have compression air , leave it in the sun for a while
4 if i am happy with the cylinder ie bore condition, have seen and cleared the port
i usually fit a seal kit , under some circumstance i may just re assemble the unit
i use brake fluid to lube the seals. , ( rubber grease can be used , but i prefer brake fluid )
DO NOT wash / clean with any hydrocarbon ( petrol / gas —— depend on what country you live in as to what you call it ) hydrocarbon react VERY badly with the cylinder seals / cups put a drop of petrol on an old seal and watch it grow
5 i bleed cylinder s like this on the bench as a start point, but doing that after re fitting is fine . As a mechanic. many of the std workshop practices are about time spent on a job. one of the reasons people employ a mechanic is because they should be quicker and more efficient at any given task
this same issue has come up on a number of other forums , with people changing clutches ect . as stated earlier it can often be associated with a bike that has sat / unused for a period of time , or gets very little daily use

that’s my lot
i’ll make no more comment
hope this is of some help
Click to expand...
This has to be it. I removed and disassembled the master again. I was afraid to mess with that deflector before thinking it was a valve or something important. But since you said i could bend it I did and that hole was plugged solid. Used torch tip cleaners to clean it out.. put it back together and I could see the difference as soon as I started bleeding it. Thanks again and I will update after a few rides
 
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