Clutch lever piston

ALLshow.NOgo

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First off the bike does not have power. I have been moving the bike without engine running, and just using the clutch to lock the bike from going forward.

Before I replaced the crashed clutch res. on the handle bar, it worked. Opened it up and it did have gunk in it. I bought a new res. off a new 2006 bike, it already had oil in it etc. I used the existing lines on the bike and coupled them to the new res.

At first the lever had no tention in it. Just squeezing the lever all the way does not engage the clutch for me to move the bike forward without putting it in nuetral. I loosened the nut on the pressure fitting from the res. and ofcourse oil came out. Then the lever got stiff. Played with it till I got some tention about halfway but whatever I do clutch will not engage.

Maybe I have to use the new line the res. camw with but I am trying to avoid that.

Just more info to help. The bike is awaiting a new billet stator on the way, bike has no engine oil. I looked at 1/2 of the results of my search, and none had the same problem as me. Thank you.
 
you would make me feel better if you called it "brake fluid" instead of "oil"

Pull the cap off the reservoir, open the bleeder about 1 full turn and keep the reservoir full while you watch any bubbles come out of the bleeder (about 4 oz of fluid should do the trick)..

Close the bleeder and work the lever a couple times and repeat.. should be good to go..
 
you would make me feel better if you called it "brake fluid" instead of "oil"

Pull the cap off the reservoir, open the bleeder about 1 full turn and keep the reservoir full while you watch any bubbles come out of the bleeder (about 4 oz of fluid should do the trick)..

Close the bleeder and work the lever a couple times and repeat.. should be good to go..
+1.
 
The "oil" thing comes from a customer I had ..

Airline pilot that just had to buy an Audi.. he brought me 3 or 4 of them to scope out and I shot them all down as junk.. He bought #5 without inspection (bad news in AZ)..

Anyway it had a PS leak and they require a special mineral based oil ($$$).. He put in ATF.. $2000 later I had that error fixed... (pump rack, hoses all died from ATF)

Well maybe a month later he added fluid to the brake system... remembering the P/S ordeal, he made sure he put that fancy green mineral based oil into the brake system.... uh huh... OIL in the brake system...

Well a complete new ABS system, hoses, calipers builds, and about $3000 I had that fixed... He quit putting fluid in his car after that..

Anyone living around Scottsdale can go into Los Olivos and talk to Tom... ask him about his Audi....
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stock lines are "difficult" to bleed compared to a SS line (less bends and no check valve)... replace the line if you can, and/or get someone with experience bleeding to show you how.
 
LOL about the 'oil' story. I think if it got that bad, I would stop putting in fluid to ahaha

But I will bleed it this weekend
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even if i have to replace the line it looks real easy plus I have a new line for it. Thanks for the tips.
 
You do not need to replace the line unless it is cracked and leaking. You just need to bleed the sh!t outta it. And you really should have oil on the bike and start it up on a stand or go for a ride before you can actually get that "pull in the clutch to move the bike" thingy happening!
 
nice My billet stator arrives today. I will get 50/50 blend oil on Friday, and do alittle work and get her cranked up on Saturday and see what happens
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HAHAHAHA it is a syn blend. half syn, half motor oil
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also I got in my Billet stator. It is YANI SHIKI or some shiz like that lol but it has the gerneral warning that it is for offroad use, show yada yada yada should I be concerned or is that the usual shiz people put on it as a loop hole to sell? Thanks alot if this can be answered.
 
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