Clutch stack hieght
- Thread starter JQBusa
- Start date
Most of the thicks are .012" thicker than the thins. Shoot for 1.98 to 2.00 I used 4 thicks to get what I needed on mine. The SM shows up to 2 standard and up to 4 thick plates. You could have had thinner run of fibers and they added a thick to get the stack closer from the factory. I've heard of all 9 being in packs with used fibers. You can measure the complete stack as you did. Make sure you replace the springs, regardless if they are in minimum specs. Mine lost 5lbs per spring. That is 30 lbs of pressure. New they were 35lbs seated.
Need to run stain some trim.... back later.
Need to run stain some trim.... back later.
Are you running a welded inner hub, or a one-piece hub like Brocks?
Any spacers?
I'd be interested in the specs of the Schnitz springs. Free length, wire diameter, number of full coils. If it doesn’t match these I have, I’d like to measure the pressure of one if you have an extra. I’ve measured the OEM, Barnett MT-126, Brock Black and Brock Green.
When I checked pressure at an installed height of .880 (stock with no spacers). New they measured 35, 27, 57, 80lbs in the same order listed. The Barnett has a larger wire diameter than stock .090 vs .100 but its free height is .150†shorter. When measured at .700 (allowing for the Brock spacers) You get 50, 60, 125, 175. I’m running 4 OEM and 2 Barnett (with a Brock ultra light clutch hub. I plan on monitoring clutch slippage this year to keep a better eye on it.
When I figure out what seems to work best pressure wise for me, I’m going to have some springs built to ditch the spacers.
Don’t be afraid to swap in some of your old thick steels in your pack. If they are in good shape, warped less that .004†they be fine. If they are glazed, have them glass bead blasted and check again.
If you are running a stock sprocket cover, you might want to invest in a support or a billet cover. It is pretty common for them to break with increase spring pressure. Have seen one break with stock springs.
Yep BA Busa.... I get paid by the word!
Any spacers?
I'd be interested in the specs of the Schnitz springs. Free length, wire diameter, number of full coils. If it doesn’t match these I have, I’d like to measure the pressure of one if you have an extra. I’ve measured the OEM, Barnett MT-126, Brock Black and Brock Green.
When I checked pressure at an installed height of .880 (stock with no spacers). New they measured 35, 27, 57, 80lbs in the same order listed. The Barnett has a larger wire diameter than stock .090 vs .100 but its free height is .150†shorter. When measured at .700 (allowing for the Brock spacers) You get 50, 60, 125, 175. I’m running 4 OEM and 2 Barnett (with a Brock ultra light clutch hub. I plan on monitoring clutch slippage this year to keep a better eye on it.
When I figure out what seems to work best pressure wise for me, I’m going to have some springs built to ditch the spacers.
Don’t be afraid to swap in some of your old thick steels in your pack. If they are in good shape, warped less that .004†they be fine. If they are glazed, have them glass bead blasted and check again.
If you are running a stock sprocket cover, you might want to invest in a support or a billet cover. It is pretty common for them to break with increase spring pressure. Have seen one break with stock springs.
Yep BA Busa.... I get paid by the word!
Since you're getting to become proficient at the clutch R&R, you might remember this for any multi clutch assembly...
I'll make this short:
1. Dip all plates (new or old) in an oil filled pie pan, (work one at a time as you assemble).
2.Face all steel and friction, "cut edges" facing the pressure plate, (the stampings create memory).
3. If the clutch hasn't changed since '99, you have a fatty friction beginning, and ending with a friction fatty. For the steels, you have two fatty steels in the center. That is final assembly...
4. The depth is critical because you have to deal with the (no adj. liquid clutch), wear factor. Run fatter than shorter, meaning, if you dial-in on the short side, better a touch over with the set-up you measure now. Run the fat side and let it wear down, (break-in).
5. Run 2.00 rather than 1.98, meaning, the sooner you hit the push rod, the smoother the shift.
I'll make this short:
1. Dip all plates (new or old) in an oil filled pie pan, (work one at a time as you assemble).
2.Face all steel and friction, "cut edges" facing the pressure plate, (the stampings create memory).
3. If the clutch hasn't changed since '99, you have a fatty friction beginning, and ending with a friction fatty. For the steels, you have two fatty steels in the center. That is final assembly...
4. The depth is critical because you have to deal with the (no adj. liquid clutch), wear factor. Run fatter than shorter, meaning, if you dial-in on the short side, better a touch over with the set-up you measure now. Run the fat side and let it wear down, (break-in).
5. Run 2.00 rather than 1.98, meaning, the sooner you hit the push rod, the smoother the shift.
Mathewrussell52
Registered
Gen 2 not sure if it’s same
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