Co2 shifter?

Anyone have any pics on where they stuck the 12oz. Co2 bottle. If a 12 won't fit I'm just going order a couple 5 0z. Bottles.
 
I attached my 12 oz to the subframe inside the turn signal pod of the tail. With a stock tail I put a 9 oz under the hump with a slight mod to the hump.
 
Dennis, did you use some big ass hose clamps or big zip ties or something? Asking because I am going to do same thing, same size bottle, same location.
 
Zip ties. Hose clamps didn't really conform well to the odd shape so they didn't hold the bottle well.
 
The valve he gives in the kit is hard to fit in there. The gauge sticks out far and the braided line to the regulator has a 1" solid piece. I ended up getting a 1/8" npt x 1/4" flare 90 and putting that in the valve. Shrunk the overall size up quite a bit. I also scored a 9 oz. co2 bottle that was a huge help. Bike is 100% buttoned up now. I made a couple shakedown passes on the road. Was planning on hitting real street drags in union grove next friday depending on the weather.

Dennis quick question? I noticed on the 1-2 shift it almost seems like you have to really make hit and almost hold the button to get it to 2nd. Does that seem normal?
 
The 1-2 shift is the longest of course. I don't notice any problem getting it to shift but I don't know how long I'm holding the button. What pressure do you have after your regulator? I run about 150 PSI, but at times as low as 135. How close to the shift cylinder is your solenoid? The closer the better.
 
What psi are you guys setting the regulator at generally? I really have no idea what I am doing. MPS spark kill kit, co2. My swing arm has a compartment with 2 valves I could use but I have no idea why that would be an advantage.
 
I couldnt get anything to work with my tiger tail and the retarded size MPS regulator so I went and bought a 20 oz bottle from sports authority for $30 military discount. They will refill for $4. I attached to my swing arm bracket which I had to make a bracket out of aluminum and I also used a hose clamp with a bracket on the back with a downturned lip for a second hope to hold in place in case it slipped. I will take a pic if anyone wants to try it. I had mine up to 170ish yesterday and everything is still there lol.
 
BTW, the MPS bottle kit is the biggest waste. A 7oz bottle with regulator for $220? Could those regulators be that expensive?
 
Carolina cycles regulator is $100 by the time you get it to your door. They are considered to be one of the best. I bought a bottle adapter, regulator, and hose (to remote mount the regulator) from DynoTune for $99 plus shipping and it works fine.
 
I've got the dynotune setup on both bikes...one with a 7oz bottle...and the other with a 3.5 oz. They work flawlessly..

Co2.jpg


IMG_20130919_132836_463.jpg
 
The valve and regulator are pains on my dynotune kit. I've seen a regulator that mounts right to the bottle. I don't know who makes it though. I'm sure some of the guys on here know who makes it or if it's still on the market
 
I had a mini Palmer's Pursuit regulator mounted to my bottle adapter. It was a setup Matt provided with the Cycle Tek shifters. I ended up separating them which I like better.
 
jayp577 said:
5" Bimba style air cylinder with a 2 to 2 1/2" stroke, dual inlets 1inch or 1 1/16th bore for an air cylinder, Humphrey 12 volt solenoid normally closed air valve with 1/8th inch ports. I use a paintball CO2 cylinder and regulator, but have used schedule 40 pvc pipe and caps for an air tank in the old days. You will need a momentary button or hook the solenoid to your horn. Still need airline and sharkbite style push to disconnect fittings too. This is the hardware, you are still going to need some sort of engine kill if you don't have something like a power commander that has that function.......Good luck. It can be done cheaper than the ready made up kits but they get what they charge by knowing what to include in the kits.
Click to expand...
Can you tell me what you used for a regulator or a part number? Thanks
 
Dennis said:
The 1-2 shift is the longest of course. I don't notice any problem getting it to shift but I don't know how long I'm holding the button. What pressure do you have after your regulator? I run about 150 PSI, but at times as low as 135. How close to the shift cylinder is your solenoid? The closer the better.
Click to expand...
150 PSI !!!! 135!!!!!! I run 100 PSI Never misses a shift.
unless my clevis bolt comes out. Which has happened twice, till I now have it safety wired
Too high a pressure and things can bend/break Things
More pressures does not always equal faster shifts
 
202mphbusa said:
150 PSI !!!! 135!!!!!! I run 100 PSI Never misses a shift.
unless my clevis bolt comes out. Which has happened twice, till I now have it safety wired
Too high a pressure and things can bend/break Things
More pressures does not always equal faster shifts
Click to expand...
I would question the accuracy of your gauge if you are running 100 psi. On a hot day pressures can actually go over 150 psi. I put over 4000 passes on the stock transmission that was working fine before swapping out for one cut by Robinson. I am still running the original shift forks, shift shafts and shift drum so I'm not too concerned about my pressure being high.
 
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