COLD STARTING PROCEDURE. ANYONE?

OB_Animal

Registered
JeffW, where did you get that from?

That idle raiser lever does nothing but operate a small separate cam that in turn slightly opens the normal cam operated by the throttle cables.

Just take a look at the mechanism on the right side under the tank just visible. Even when checking this fast idle mechanism with everything blocking any view removed I can't for the life of me see how this has anything to do with ignition timing.

Seeing how good the Busa starts even in the cold and that I prefer to slowly warm-up my Busa while actually riding instead of leaving it unloaded on higher idle for a while I'm even going to remove that whole fast idle thing (removing things from my bikes that have no use for me is only one of my more serious fetishes).
 
I can't believe a bike with FI has a manual choke. Each bike I've had required a "special" way to fire it up in cold weather (in hondas, you fire it up without choke, otherwise it will never start. But if you don't put the choke instantly upon starting, it dies and you better have a full battery to restart it). What's the best way for the busa? What about once warm (this is my first FI bike): throttle or no throttle?
 
The busa doesn`t have a choke per se it has a fast idle lever.When you slide the lever it ramps the throttle bodies a little more open.Like twisting the throttle a little...Never give the bike throttle and try to start it will flood.Turn the key on slide up the lever and push the start button ,wait a minute or two slide the lever back and away you go.
 
Animal, I must have been smokin crack. I though that I read it messed with timing.

Now I can't find it. I must be wrong (oh that was hard to say)
 
No change in starting procedure for cold weather.

I've started mine up at below freezing temps lots already. It starts so fast you can barely hear the starter motor crank.
 
Lots of very cold starting here too.
Just leave the choke (lever whatever you want to call it) full on until the temp. guage starts to move (even level with the bottom of the temp guage) and bob's your uncle.

Manual says use choke for 30secs or more depending on temp. It also says to leave bike ticking over for 30secs even when warm to let the oil do it's thang.
 
JeffW, as we can see it can happen to the best of us.

And to prove this "best" you were even capable of saying the unspeakable.
 
Below 50 F
2200 rpm til temp gauge hits a hair above bottom line. 1100-1500 til almost halfway.

I never like to load an engine not up to temp. in the cold. Let the oil (blood) flow.

Forged pistons in this bike also--they expand more than cast, which means when cold they can be loose in the bore--piston slap anyone?

Probably overkill, but shes my baby and I can wait til she warms up.
Bob
 
There's also many believing in the theory that warming-up via (fast) idling is bad in many respects and it's best to warm it up riding gently and keeping it lightly loaded until oil is up to proper temp.

Now the only problem is how do you know oil is up to temp when all you've got is a water temp gauge (and NO this is not such a good indication of the oil temp as well)?

I've already got the Yosh oil temp sensor mounted on the RH side at the end of the oil gallery under the crank (M16X1.5 if memory serves me right, double sealing ring underneath for clearance of the channel going upwards from there to the rightmost crank journal etc.) and only have to take care of routing the wiring and finding some positive lead wire around the instruments area for the digital multi meter.
 
35% of the public "believes" in ghosts.
we are splitting hairs here, but--Please explain why idling a bike a up to temp can do more harm than riding it. Are you implying that because the bike is not under load the oil will not reach operating temp?
Letting the bike reach coolant operating temp before i head down the driveway can not be worse. I don't think many warm the bike up and then red line their bike out of the driveway and down the street. Common sense tells you that you should ride 10-15 minutes before goosing it.
 
Does anyone else pro-actively cool their bike down? After running fast on a hot day, I'll ease off the engine revs and loading for a mile or two before I hit the destination.

I certainly do this on the track.

Very hot oil is also very thin and if you stop your bike after running it hard, much of the oil, because it's thin from heating, will drop off the cylinder walls. Then when you start up cold your precious bits will have no protection until the oil has made a full trip around the galleries.
 
On all the equipment that I use I try to let them idle for at least a minute or two especially after beating the hell out of it.
 
I usually start off by telling her how beautiful she looks today and by slowly running my hands over her body. Then I check if she is filled up and move her a little to get the feel for her. After getting the final go ahead I insert the key and let her get used to the vibrations as she slowly warms up. When she has reached her operation temprature I put her in gear and head for the final orgasm: Seeing 200mph on her clock.
 
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