Cold Starts Dangerous ???
- Thread starter haya4life
- Start date
My thoughts also.
FanaticalKilla
Registered
I fire up my 1000 then wait 3-4 minutes. I love cold weather riding, don't be too hard on the gas in the turns though.
trekfuel
Registered
Say I let the bike idle for 4 minutes out of 200 riding days. That means in 5 years owning the bike, I had to fork over to the oil warlords... Ah, forget it
OH.... watch out for the "idle POLICE"
Bylaw enforcement to blitz idling vehicles - LondonTopic.ca
Dozerdriver
Registered
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2busa
The engine note is in a cold state. That means the head is cold, has to heat up to expand the fuel.
Again, this is a lot of condensed fuel droplets and not a mist when warm, where it would burn more efficiently and that engine note changes once it is warmed up and then sounds normal, right?
You can take off as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. Usually, I take off way before the starter motor stops spinning. In fact, when it's cold, I keep the starter moving so I do not stall on the clutch release. Then again, I putt slow down the street at about 1,900 rpm until the cylinder warms up. You do not want to haul butt, where the pistons expand faster than the barrel. That is a seized piston on the cylinder wall. So the trick is low rpm on the leave from the garage.
That is where the ECU sets the, 'morning map' to a rich set. This also ratchets the air box to open with more air because the map is fat rich and the proportion is matched, so the vent or the throttle more or less is pushed open a touch. Also, the tach/speedo needles swing back to zero so as to be accurate on the key fob move.
I'm going to take a guess at this one. Sounds strange, but my pitch on this is the cold condensed air in the tube. Once the heat expands, it acts like a balloon where you are more bouncing the now hot air caused by friction to expand, which causes the forks [air] to expand, and have less of a dive when warm.
Definitely! The break-in oil sort of flushes out the debris that was floating in threaded holes, unless they dip the post-machined cases in a sonic-bath to dislodge the machined materials during production. Either way, the break-in of the moving parts can sheer the minute material off rolling parts, get sucked up into the oil pump. The oil pump blades crush that debris, cause the pump to score. The debris is now floating in the bearings under pressure. The crank bearing inserts are soft aluminum and will embed that debris rather than score the parts. So to keep the engine clean from that contamination, you need to flush that oil out with the crap-o-la on a new bike so it lasts for a long time. Thus, the early dump of the oil.
Originally Posted by 2busa
The engine note is in a cold state. That means the head is cold, has to heat up to expand the fuel.
Again, this is a lot of condensed fuel droplets and not a mist when warm, where it would burn more efficiently and that engine note changes once it is warmed up and then sounds normal, right?
You can take off as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. Usually, I take off way before the starter motor stops spinning. In fact, when it's cold, I keep the starter moving so I do not stall on the clutch release. Then again, I putt slow down the street at about 1,900 rpm until the cylinder warms up. You do not want to haul butt, where the pistons expand faster than the barrel. That is a seized piston on the cylinder wall. So the trick is low rpm on the leave from the garage.
That is where the ECU sets the, 'morning map' to a rich set. This also ratchets the air box to open with more air because the map is fat rich and the proportion is matched, so the vent or the throttle more or less is pushed open a touch. Also, the tach/speedo needles swing back to zero so as to be accurate on the key fob move.
I'm going to take a guess at this one. Sounds strange, but my pitch on this is the cold condensed air in the tube. Once the heat expands, it acts like a balloon where you are more bouncing the now hot air caused by friction to expand, which causes the forks [air] to expand, and have less of a dive when warm.
Definitely! The break-in oil sort of flushes out the debris that was floating in threaded holes, unless they dip the post-machined cases in a sonic-bath to dislodge the machined materials during production. Either way, the break-in of the moving parts can sheer the minute material off rolling parts, get sucked up into the oil pump. The oil pump blades crush that debris, cause the pump to score. The debris is now floating in the bearings under pressure. The crank bearing inserts are soft aluminum and will embed that debris rather than score the parts. So to keep the engine clean from that contamination, you need to flush that oil out with the crap-o-la on a new bike so it lasts for a long time. Thus, the early dump of the oil.
Exactly...???
I just got off the horn with my psychic reader and she was talking to Henry Ford... Henry said to put the crack pipe down....Say I let the bike idle for 4 minutes out of 200 riding days. That means in 5 years owning the bike, I had to fork over to the oil warlords... Ah, forget it
what was that first post all about? take off while starter is still spinning amoung others... 
Christ you guys lol. Let the bike warm up, don't touch the throttle till it's been running at least a minute. Change the oil @ 50miles then @150 miles. At 300 miles change the oil and filter. @ 600 miles or so take it in for the first service so suzuki will honor your warranty.
jdsbusa
Registered
No doubt! Dude is going to be changing his starter every few oil changes doing that! Hope he was joking.I just got off the horn with my psychic reader and she was talking to Henry Ford... Henry said to put the crack pipe down....
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GOOD ADVICEAll that stuff is normal...the humm you hear for the first 2-3 seconds is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. The bike will start right away when cold, but give it 20-30 seconds before you hit the throttle...it needs to warm up a bit before it will idle and run properly. The brakes being grabby and the front end dive is because everything is cold...when you get up in the morning, do you stretch and loosen up...or do you take off in a sprint?
I like to first do a pre flight check...kick the tires and check a few things on the bike before I start it. Then I make sure it's in neutral, start the bike...while it's running...I put on my helmet and gloves. Then she's ready to go...just take it easy on the first few stops, so the suspension and brakes can warm up too
BAD ADVICE. Hopefully you were just joking.
IMO this would be overkill. You would be helping yourself more theoretically if you changed the filter when you did the 50 mile oil change and then waited until you hit the 600 mile change to do anything else. Suzuki will honor your warranty if you keep records of your oil changes (miles, date, and something else) if I remember correctly it is in your owner's manual.
is this the same guy who added the NOS drink into his gas tank to go faster? ???
???Crank the bike about 1-2 minutes before you want to leave. This will ensure it will not "die" on you from blippin the throttle. Never go out and crank a bike up in any weather and start revvin it up. At least I wouldn't do it. I'm not saying its gonna blow up but I've always believed in letting them warm up for 1 minute or so.
The drink works better than the stickers, you didn't know?is this the same guy who added the NOS drink into his gas tank to go faster?
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