Is your bike a 2008-2012 or a 2013-2022?
Cold Start stalling
- Thread starter Dafeimao85
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Dafeimao85
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Dafeimao85
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Oh I see. So this filter might be the culprit while changing the pump might not solve the issue.
Fuel Pump Gas Filter for Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R 15410-41G00 USA | eBay
Fit for 2008-2012 Suzuki Hayabusa (GSX1300R). 1x Fuel Pump Gas Filter as the Picture. Fit for 2006-2007 Suzuki GSX-R600. Fit for 2006-2007 Suzuki GSX-R750. Fit for 2005-2006 Suzuki GSX-R1000. Total new and high quality.www.ebay.com
This is the actual post pump fuel filter and housing that is the usual culprit of poor fuel pressure.
Thanks.
I think I will order and just change it together.
Slow down there on that filter setup. The 2013 and later have a different setup with a shorter pump. Let me see what I can find for ya.
This is going to be the filter setup for your year Busa. It also includes a new pressure regulator. Here's the part and the diagram to help you out. Number 12 in the diagram.
www.suzukipartshouse.com
2016 Suzuki GSX1300RAL6 Fuel Pump
Shop online for OEM Fuel Pump parts that fit your 2016 Suzuki GSX1300RAL6, search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542
www.suzukipartshouse.com
Dafeimao85
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Thanks. According to revzilla.com
Only got 1 base strainer which I did remove and clean. But however still cannot get high flow...
Seems like it's a pump degrading performance.
My manual is the L2 series pump, which it's a total different manner to replace the pump. I just wanna be sure as the wire are submersible inside the fuel. There should be no way it catch fire because of too rich environment in the fuel tank but however I wanna play it safe.
If you're going in there. Do the pump and the filter/regulator setup in the diagram that I posted above. The strainer only grabs larger particles while the post pump filter gathers the smaller particles.
The wires will be just fine.
Dafeimao85
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Hi DustinThis is going to be the filter setup for your year Busa. It also includes a new pressure regulator. Here's the part and the diagram to help you out. Number 12 in the diagram.
2016 Suzuki GSX1300RAL6 Fuel Pump
Shop online for OEM Fuel Pump parts that fit your 2016 Suzuki GSX1300RAL6, search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542
For the 2013 onward fuel pump I found the same strainer that is irreplaceable like the 2008 to 2012 at the regulator housing.
I did not purchase it but looking at the strainer type, I think I should be able to do a back purging. And after that a fuel flow test. If the result is still same after pump and filter replaced, then high chance it's the regulator.
Dafeimao85
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Attached the photo for future gen 2 2013 owner reference.
You found it!
Dafeimao85
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Yay found it on the gixxer 600 2012 forum. Seems that the pump is gen 2 busa used was the same from gixxer 600 and 750. However I am surprise that the oem fuel pump was about 65L/H rate while the gixxer 1000 is on a 255L/H rate...
That is strange...
Dafeimao85
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Today I change my fuel pump
Problem persist.
But I can heard the obvious the sound of the starter motor trying to start seems slow when cold
When it's hot it the cranking sound faster.
Can it be possible starter motor? My busa can only start with a 1/4 turn throttle as of now.
But if the starter motor is the issue, why did it manage to start idle for 3 sec and stall?
Anyone know how the starter motor operate?
Problem persist.
But I can heard the obvious the sound of the starter motor trying to start seems slow when cold
When it's hot it the cranking sound faster.
Can it be possible starter motor? My busa can only start with a 1/4 turn throttle as of now.
But if the starter motor is the issue, why did it manage to start idle for 3 sec and stall?
Anyone know how the starter motor operate?
Dafeimao85
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Hi All.
While checking youtube for some clue. I realize something
YouTube video the guy in dealership mode. The - is in the middle.
My - is in the bottom.
I understand the - represent throttle position. Can anyone kind enough to help me check ur busa when switch on default position is at which position?
While checking youtube for some clue. I realize something
YouTube video the guy in dealership mode. The - is in the middle.
My - is in the bottom.
I understand the - represent throttle position. Can anyone kind enough to help me check ur busa when switch on default position is at which position?
The dash should be in the middle, C00-
If you have C00_
then the throttle position sensor is out of adjustment.
The TPS has a bolt through a groove on the right side of the throttle-bodies, loosen the bolt and move the TPS up until the -/dash mark is in the center.
When you rev the engine, the -/dash mark should move to the top, and settle back to center at idle.
If the dash stays at the top, you have moved the TPS too much.
It is sensitive, and can take a couple of trys to get it tightened down in the right place, but otherwise is a simple adjustment.
Yours is too low, out of adjustment, and will cause hard starts, you have found the problem.
If you have C00_
then the throttle position sensor is out of adjustment.
The TPS has a bolt through a groove on the right side of the throttle-bodies, loosen the bolt and move the TPS up until the -/dash mark is in the center.
When you rev the engine, the -/dash mark should move to the top, and settle back to center at idle.
If the dash stays at the top, you have moved the TPS too much.
It is sensitive, and can take a couple of trys to get it tightened down in the right place, but otherwise is a simple adjustment.
Yours is too low, out of adjustment, and will cause hard starts, you have found the problem.
Dafeimao85
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Thanks Sixpack577,
I will try to adjust! Hope everything will be good.
If only had I realize it sooner. Could save 100 bucks for the ISC valve.
The fuel pump was since under performance so can't consider it a waste for replacement.
Once again thank you all for the help! I really learn alot in this journey!
Right on
Let us know how it goes.
You adjust the TPS with the gas tank up and the bike running, so it should only take a few minutes to correct.
Dafeimao85
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Hi all,
So I had it adjusted. It was super sensitive. A finger tap would do the job.
Apparently with the screw is still tight, the TPS manage to run away from its position.
So today the 1st start it still die off
The 2nd start with a twist for a second, the rpm went up 2k and it manage to drop to 800 and adjust itself back to 1300rpm. And the bike proceed to warm up with no issue anymore.
So may I ask the expert here is it normal to drop to 800 and catch back to 1300 rpm when cold? Or should I try to adjust the TPS abit more? Or is it not normal at all and the TPS needs to replace? The last time I had a multi meter on was 1.7v with position close (if my memory was correct)
Thanks you in advance for all the input!
No, not normal at all.
I cannot remember what the resistance should be when tested, but by the sound of things, you need a new TPS, and the setting at C00- is it, there is no finer adjustment.
The bike should start up smoothly and quickly, maybe a second pr so longer to start in really cold weather, and the idle will be a couple hundred rpms higher for a minute or so, then settle to regular idle, at any outside temperature.
No throttle should ever be needed to start it.
Dafeimao85
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Thanks Sixpack577,
I search thru the manual throttle close to be at 1.1v and 4.3v at full open. Since mine close is at 1.7v I assume something is really wrong with the TPS.
Oh well. No choice but to replace and tried. Another 70 bucks to test
Will update you guys once tps arrive and replaced.
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