Cold Start stalling

Ok, you have 70k on the bike,
Is the problem worse when the bike is warmer than cooler?
When is the last time the valves where adjusted?
Stock clutch master cylinder?
 
Ok, you have 70k on the bike,
Is the problem worse when the bike is warmer than cooler?
When is the last time the valves where adjusted?
Stock clutch master cylinder?
Hi GIXERHP,

Valve adjustment unsure as I got the bike at 50k plan to send out the bike for valve adjustment next Jan 25. When mileage is 80k (previous owner told me he did it on 40k). There is also no "click click" link sound (my previous cbr1000rr would give that sound when valve clearence was off).

Stock clutch but had the clutch master cylinder plunger replaced at 60k due to oil seal leaking.

The problem is cold (living in Asia, cold is about ~28deg C atmosphere temperature) cannot start. The bike would fire up 1 sec and stall. I need to crack open until the TPS sensor goes to the top then the bike is able to start. (somehow like telling me it's too lean). I had change the ISC valve and fuel pump, filter and regulator.

Once the coolant temperature goes up abit, I can hit the kill switch and restart the bike with no effort.

Only 3 days ago I realize tps is at the bottom. I adjusted to the middle on Friday and wait for bike to cool down on Saturday, Bike fire up on 2nd try.

Today I am back to the square 1. I check the TPS is on the middle, Co throttle til top line to fire up. When close throttle bike would stall and the TPS will be either in the middle or the bottom.

I did another test by holding the throttle to maintain the TPS in the middle but my busa would still stall on cold.

Its driving me nuts!
 
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Hi All,

The other abnormality I observe was after the initial difficult cold start. I close throttle and rpm drop to ~800rpm and slowly catch back up to 1.2k rpm. During this time volt meter was reading 13.2v to 13.5v (lowest I saw was 13v)

Once warm up the volt then respond to 13.8v to 14.3v.

To confirm its not a voltage issue I also had remove my headlight bulb to ensure the volt was at around 13.8v during that transition period of starting and yet I am facing the same issue. Hence I conclude that it is not the rectifier or generator issue.

Am I correct to test it that way?
 
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