Core Moto lines change then test drive front wheel locks up on ABS 2017

[DuraBusaTom]

I installed my Core Moto lines and bled the brakes according SportBike Track Gear YT channel.

While test riding My front wheel locked up and I hit the ground.

Anyone have any suggestions as to why my ABS didn't kick in? Or other bleeding techniques I should use?
The brakes seemed to work great while normal use. The lock up occurred while trying to "emergency brake"

 

[MonkeyButtRides]

That is a bummer, hope you and the bike are ok. During core moto brake line installation process did you remove the ABS sensor? If so have you checked it since your lock up? Did you get any ABS codes?

 

[DuraBusaTom]

I am beat up a little. I was only expecting a quick, uneventful ride so, I did not gear up and I got rash on head, torso, arm and leg. I plan to never again ride without gear. Even on short runs. Thanks. the bike is ok considering I went down (fully geared) over a month ago when I hit a raised median at 1:00 in the morning. And that spill caused my damage to my near perfect bike.

I did not remove the sensor. I did not get an illuminated ABS light. I know nothing about CODES on a Hayabusa.

 

[shade]

For future reference you don't need to be going fast to engage ABS.
For testing a straightline roll in your neighborhood for testing is fine.you have a better controlled environment and can keep your feet down.

 

[GIXERHP]

How full is the master cylinder?
And has any thing else changed?
Where you going straight, or turned?
Also what year bike?

 

[sixpack577]

Bleed the calipers, the master cylinder, then the abs pump.
Front or rear first does not matter.
Use the abs exit line bolt as the bleeder screw, open/close it with a rag around it to catch the small amount of fluid coming out.
If you bleed the mc, and see the fluid going down as normal,, but then the fluid in the resivor rises again, you still have air in the lines going and coming from the abs pump.
Bleed them in the order above again.
Or just the mc and pump, then bleed the calipers again.
I would bet that air between the abs pump and mc pushed the fluid in the mc resivor to the full point, and the brakes could not release.

 

[Oz22]

What a nasty thing to happen! I bought the 2012 so I'm the ABS. Interestingly if you know what your doing you can actually stop quicker than with ABS, in the dry that is. I learnt to lockup my front on the dirt_bike, it took a little getting used to the lock and release curve but now I can do it effortlessly and not lose control. I wouldn't want to have to do it on the blacktop, but the skill is there.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

What a nasty thing to happen! I bought the 2012 so I'm the ABS. Interestingly if you know what your doing you can actually stop quicker than with ABS, in the dry that is. I learnt to lockup my front on the dirt_bike, it took a little getting used to the lock and release curve but now I can do it effortlessly and not lose control. I wouldn't want to have to do it on the blacktop, but the skill is there.

Locking up and releasing the front wheel??
Why???
The moment the wheel stops turning it loses traction, that is NOT what you want under any sort of braking!
The quickest stop is when you keep the front wheel turning with the rubber gripping the road surface, but the rotation of the wheel is slowing constantly
ABS was designed to keep the wheel turning, NEVER allowing it to lock up, for the reasons outlined above.
Dirt bike braking technique is NOT anything like road bike braking, completely different surfaces to brake on.

 

[Busa Quick]

May not matter, but did the brake light switch get unplugged?

 

[Oz22]

Locking up and releasing the front wheel??
Why???
The moment the wheel stops turning it loses traction, that is NOT what you want under any sort of braking!
ABS was designed to keep the wheel turning, NEVER allowing it to lock up

Incorrect. ABS senses when the wheels have locked, and then pumps brake fluid in bursts to momentarily lock and unlock. It works off those disks on our wheels right, it detects when one wheel is moving at a different speed to the other. When that happens one is dragging on the road, it is sliding, locked.

But that's exactly what you want on a gravel road sometimes and my comments above were basically my experiences riding on gravel roads where abs is dangerous. All adventure bikes have the ability to turn it off, and turn off traction control, which you really don't want on gravel either.

Locking the rear to turn the bike is common as is spinning the back wheel in corners to make fast changes in direction, but abs braking cuts in far too often on gravel. You can be full on the brakes heading towards a corner and hardly slowing at all whereas if you have abs off you can lock the brakes intermittently and slow normally. It's explained below in the vid. How does this apply to the blacktop? It doesn't other than the fact that if you do lock the front you may have a split second or two to correct your error. If you are practiced that is, and moving in a straight line.

2:00 mark for braking--

 

[sixpack577]

May not matter, but did the brake light switch get unplugged?

Brake light switch will not matter.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Incorrect. ABS senses when the wheels have locked, and then pumps brake fluid in bursts to momentarily lock and unlock. It works off those disks on our wheels right, it detects when one wheel is moving at a different speed to the other. When that happens one is dragging on the road, it is sliding, locked.

But that's exactly what you want on a gravel road sometimes and my comments above were basically my experiences riding on gravel roads where abs is dangerous. All adventure bikes have the ability to turn it off, and turn off traction control, which you really don't want on gravel either.

Locking the rear to turn the bike is common as is spinning the back wheel in corners to make fast changes in direction, but abs braking cuts in far too often on gravel. You can be full on the brakes heading towards a corner and hardly slowing at all whereas if you have abs off you can lock the brakes intermittently and slow normally. It's explained below in the vid. How does this apply to the blacktop? It doesn't other than the fact that if you do lock the front you may have a split second or two to correct your error. If you are practiced that is, and moving in a straight line.

2:00 mark for braking--

Yes yes yes, I know about gravel roads and ABS etc, I was referring to sealed road braking.. the OP was telling us about locking up his front wheel on the street.

 

[DuraBusaTom]

How full is the master cylinder?
And has any thing else changed?
Where you going straight, or turned?
Also what year bike?

The master cylinder is nearly half way in the sight glass on the side stand.
I replaced the master cylinder with a stock one purchased form ebay. And I put on rearsets.
I was going straight on dampened country road. Braking from 50 to about 20 when I went down.
2017 with ABS

 

[Oz22]

Yes yes yes, I know about gravel roads and ABS etc, I was referring to sealed road braking.. the OP was telling us about locking up his front wheel on the street.

Yes yes yes, I addressed all that in my posts. Personally outside of a rainy day I see little benefit in abs. Like most driving aids it was invented to save stupid people from making obvious mistakes, like following too close.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Yes yes yes, I addressed all that in my posts. Personally outside of a rainy day I see little benefit in abs. Like most driving aids it was invented to save stupid people from making obvious mistakes, like following too close.

Yes yes yes you’re right, ABS is an attempt to idiot-proof driving, and riding.
Braking skills are highly required when riding bikes.. even more so when riding a bike fast.
But locking up wheels especially the front is courting disaster on the road.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Yes yes yes, I addressed all that in my posts. Personally outside of a rainy day I see little benefit in abs. Like most driving aids it was invented to save stupid people from making obvious mistakes, like following too close.

That was a lot of yesses lmao

 

[michael parris heuberger]

That was a lot of yesses lmao

That was a lot of yesses lmao

Hi. Do you remnber the Tasman F5000 races in NZ back in the 70's?

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Hi. Do you remnber the Tasman F5000 races in NZ back in the 70's?

I was a teenager in the 70's and was not at all interested in car racing . . so no, I don't remember it.
But I do remember motocross racing and some of the road racing we had going on here.
For me, it was all about bikes back in those days!
But we do have a revival of F5000 here in NZ . . heres a link to some info about that . .

Formula 5000: Some admire art - We race it. - NZ Autocar

Formula 5000: Some admire art - We race it.

www.autocar.co.nz

 

[michael parris heuberger]

I was a teenager in the 70's and was not at all interested in car racing . . so no, I don't remember it.
But I do remember motocross racing and some of the road racing we had going on here.
For me, it was all about bikes back in those days!
But we do have a revival of F5000 here in NZ . . heres a link to some info about that . .

Formula 5000: Some admire art - We race it. - NZ Autocar

Formula 5000: Some admire art - We race it.

www.autocar.co.nz

Hi. That was a ton of fun even if I did not do good at all. I had the Lola T 142 #99.

 

[Oz22]

But locking up wheels especially the front is courting disaster on the road.

I totally agree. It's something I studiously avoid.