Cush Drive Rubbers

POWERHOUSE said:
We have the red sensei in stock for both Gens . . .
Click to expand...

I PMed you, Frank.

"Hi Frank. I'd like to buy a set of these from you. the bike is a 2008 Suzuki Hayabusa. How do I go about buying?"

Website? Phone number? Contact you on the forum?
 
Tenderfoot said:
I didn't see them on your website, but it's good to know you guys stock smaller items!
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Thanks @POWERHOUSE . Frank, guess I better get some pads from you too!
 
I have them on my Gen 2. When I placed the sprocket and hub assembly into the new bushings, I had to be generous with a rubber mallet to get the hub down enough for the bike to go back together. I did not grease the poly bushings either.
 
Thanks Frank @POWERHOUSE Got my dampers yesterday and I have a question: which side faces out toward the sprocket? Is it the side with the three dots and the SENSEI logo facing out or is it the side with the two dots?

Pashnit's pic on p1 shows the logo facing out so I'm going with that. Lookslike the sides are slightly wedge shaped to fit in easier with logo facing out.

GAmedic said:
have them on my Gen 2. When I placed the sprocket and hub assembly into the new bushings, I had to be generous with a rubber mallet to get the hub down enough for the bike to go back together. I did not grease the poly bushings either.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That answers the other two questions I had. Definitely avoid grease even if it's silicone. ANY kind of grease will cause rubber to swell a little bit. Petroleum also softens the rubber.
 
Last edited:
Thankyou @GAmedic. Exactly what I needed.

One more question: I got the rubbers in and the cush drive pressed in most of the way by pushing down with upper body only. Then I placed a chunk of 2x4 over the bearing seal and stood on it bouncing my weight several times. I think it's in but I still see a small gap etween the cush drive cover and the lip of the cush drive housing. I can see the whole unpainted edge of the cush drive cover. It looks like that edge should go into the housing but I think it is normal to see it. Does this sound normal? I guess I can just take my wheel down to the bike and see if it fits.

Sorry I don't think I can get the pics I took off my camera with the computer Ihave at my disposal.
 
Looks like I got it. Frank suggested a little WD-40 to help the carrier slide into the rubbers easier. I used dish soap on the rubbers and the fingers. It seems to have done the trick with my 218 lbs standing on a block of wood and bouncing on top of it. I thumped it with a rubber mallet several time and that did not seem to press it in any farther. BTW, the rubber mallet on a block of wood is more effective and a lot safer than standing on the sprocket carrier like a ballerina!

The gap between the carrier and the housing was closed but the cover portion of the carrier does not sink all the way into the housing. The inner edge comes just about flush to the housing. The unpainted edge of the carrier cover is visible. That is how my wheel now is and it fit into the swingarm with spacers and rear brake caliper bracket perfectly. If the sprocket carrier can slide in any farther, I think the torqueing of the axle nut should do it. As long as my sprocket looks true, I'll just check that rear axle torque for a while and see if it needs any tightening.

Thanks to all for help. I'll do a little illustrated tutorial in the near future.
 
Got the rear wheel in. It normally is quite a PITA to get the axle through but this time it was even worse. I never touch the chain adjusters when I remove/install the wheel but this time I felt I needed to do that to get the axle through. The chain was TIGHT! I normally leave my chain on the loose side and it should be looser with the rear wheel lifted. IDK what happened.

Could it be possible the new rubbers made that much difference in the chain tension? Now that I think about it, yeah, I guess they could. Adjusting the chain a mm farther back tightens the chain a lot. Tight rubbers would do the same thing.
 
Mythos said:
Got the rear wheel in. It normally is quite a PITA to get the axle through but this time it was even worse. I never touch the chain adjusters when I remove/install the wheel but this time I felt I needed to do that to get the axle through. The chain was TIGHT! I normally leave my chain on the loose side and it should be looser with the rear wheel lifted. IDK what happened.

Could it be possible the new rubbers made that much difference in the chain tension? Now that I think about it, yeah, I guess they could. Adjusting the chain a mm farther back tightens the chain a lot. Tight rubbers would do the same thing.
Click to expand...

It's very possible the bushings made that much a difference. Any time I do anything with the rear wheel, I clean and readjust everything.
 
Absolutely! New sprocket---plan to adjust the chain tension. New rubbers, same deal. If there is no wear, everything will be tighter.
 
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