Dealership + new Tire Plus Chain lube

Here you go...

WD-40 sprayed directly on an o-ring chain is a no-no.  Sorry don't mean to instigate ya'll that use it.  I read a write up in Motorcycle magazine that corroborated with the local school of thought that WD-40 is so thin that it will get past the o-rings and wash out the lube that is in there. You can use it sprayed on a rag to clean the chain if you wish.

Kereosene = diesel fuel = jet fuel - they're all the same stuff; a light oil. This is also what is proscribed in the Suzi manual for cleaning a chain. (also R-k chains) Jet fuel is the cleanest, then kerosene, then diesel fuel. Diesel works perfectly for cleaning a chain, and is available everywhere.

I personally have had 2 premature chain failures with Chain wax. My experience.

I use PJ-1 for O ring chains. It is very sticky and only minimally slings.

Apply to a warm clean chain. The objective for oiling a warm chain is when you spray (or drip or slop) on the lube, the chain will cool, contracting the grease and forming a negative pressure inside the link which will (hopefully) pull some of the lube into the pin area where it is needed.

Lube the chain every other tank of gas (roughly every 300 miles) or whenever it looks dry.

Good luck Thrasher!
 
Here you go...

WD-40 sprayed directly on an o-ring chain is a no-no.  Sorry don't mean to instigate ya'll that use it.  I read a write up in Motorcycle magazine that corroborated with the local school of thought that WD-40 is so thin that it will get past the o-rings and wash out the lube that is in there.  You can use it sprayed on a rag to clean the chain if you wish.

Kereosene = diesel fuel = jet fuel - they're all the same stuff; a light oil.  This is also what is proscribed in the Suzi manual for cleaning a chain.  (also R-k chains) Jet fuel is the cleanest, then kerosene, then diesel fuel.  Diesel works perfectly for cleaning a chain, and is available everywhere.

I personally have had 2 premature chain failures with Chain wax.  My experience.

I use PJ-1 for O ring chains.  It is very sticky and only minimally slings.

Apply to a warm clean chain.  The objective for oiling a warm chain is when you spray (or drip or slop) on the lube, the chain will cool, contracting the grease and forming a negative pressure inside the link which will (hopefully) pull some of the lube into the pin area where it is needed.

Lube the chain every other tank of gas (roughly every 300 miles) or whenever it looks dry.

Good luck Thrasher!
Damn Mikey....I been using the same method on 27 bikes, and prolly around 60 chains or more, and have never had a failure, and I ride the hell outta my stuff!!
Replace my chains as milage gets high, that's it!!
Never soak it in WD though.....light spray on the outside, and wipe.....then chain spray.

How did ya have failures......dropping the clutch at 10000
rock.gif
 
It's amazing the variety of input when it comes to chain lube. I have a friend who never lubed the chain -- EVER. And he hasn't had any "problems"... not that I would recommend it.

I just lubed the chain yesterday for the first time on my CBR954RR. I used some can spray stuff to clean it, then some Suzuki can spray lube. I usually apply it fairly liberally and then wipe it down with a towel before it dries to get rid of the excess on the external surfaces. Then once it dries and gets tacky, it usually doesn't fling off at all. So far, this has worked for me.
 
I realized very quickly that chain grease is messy and it never gets better...you can let that sh*t sit for weeks and it will still fly all over the bike...

I switched to chain wax and haven't had any problems with mess all over the rim or undertail...clean it up real good then get some chain wax...it works great, and I check my chain regularly, add some if I think I need it...generally, I don't need to reapply the wax often...I've got 5200 miles on my Busa and have only lubed the chain 3 times...I just keep checking it, cleaned it only once...moving right along...
 
Other than the 300m timeframe for lubing, are there any symptoms that would call out for lubing? Noise? clutch perforemance? etc...? in other words what signs does the machine give in order to go for maintenance!
 
For those of you that use Kerosene to clean your chain, where do you buy the it from?  I thought it was illigal to sell it....  At least here in Illinois it is.  I tried to buy some from AutoZone, and they said it's a No, No.

What gives??
They sell Kero at many gas stations out here in New England. As long as you have a blue Kero container you can fill 5 gallon cans.
 
Kerosene is also used for lamp/camping lantern oil. Check at wal-mart and other places that sell camping supplies. Its great for cleaning and degreasing just about anything. It will take wax off your paint and yellow clearcoat the same as gas will so clean and wax any painted parts that you use it on. Also if you have your rims clearcoated it will turn the clear yellow if left on so put some soap on it and spray it off to keep your finish safe.

-vJ-
 
Alright dude... yes, the grease is messy. This is going to happen when you grease it as well. I have found that the best way to avoid splatter to to grease it and don't drive it 24 hours. The grease sets a bit and doesn't seem to roll off the chain like it did when it was first sprayed on.

You can use any engine degreaser to take the grease off the rim, swing, etc... Comes off real easy with a rag and some light finger preassure.

Don't be too mad at the dealer... they did the right thing and greased your chain like anyone else would have. They are looking at you like you are stupid because you have never had to grease your chain and therefore don't realize this is a common issue...

CLoud
 
Here you go...

WD-40 sprayed directly on an o-ring chain is a no-no.  Sorry don't mean to instigate ya'll that use it.  I read a write up in Motorcycle magazine that corroborated with the local school of thought that WD-40 is so thin that it will get past the o-rings and wash out the lube that is in there.  You can use it sprayed on a rag to clean the chain if you wish.

Kereosene = diesel fuel = jet fuel - they're all the same stuff; a light oil.  This is also what is proscribed in the Suzi manual for cleaning a chain.  (also R-k chains) Jet fuel is the cleanest, then kerosene, then diesel fuel.  Diesel works perfectly for cleaning a chain, and is available everywhere.

I personally have had 2 premature chain failures with Chain wax.  My experience.

I use PJ-1 for O ring chains.  It is very sticky and only minimally slings.

Apply to a warm clean chain.  The objective for oiling a warm chain is when you spray (or drip or slop) on the lube, the chain will cool, contracting the grease and forming a negative pressure inside the link which will (hopefully) pull some of the lube into the pin area where it is needed.

Lube the chain every other tank of gas (roughly every 300 miles) or whenever it looks dry.

Good luck Thrasher!
Damn Mikey....I been using the same method on 27 bikes, and prolly around 60 chains or more, and have never had a failure, and I ride the hell outta my stuff!!
Replace my chains as milage gets high, that's it!!
Never soak it in WD though.....light spray on the outside, and wipe.....then chain spray.

How did ya have failures......dropping the clutch at 10000
rock.gif
MSF,
Had a 91 Kat I rod cross country, AZ to NY & Back. I religiously lubed the chain every other tank of gas with my trusty can O Chain Wax on the way out. The chain did have milage on it and when I got to NY it was JUNQUE!

Replaced the cahin and sprockets in NY. (and fork seals cause I cut one on the way out, but thats another story.
tounge.gif
)

When I got back the AZ they were once again Junque. It was so bad that I saved them and use them for a teaching aid in class. Teeth missing from the sprocket and chain has 1/16" grooves worn in the pins. I'll try to get a shot of it but it is in my Auto shop at school & I have little desire to go there now.

Albieit I was averaging about 100 mph on the trip, but that shouldn't have done it, IMHO. Not even burnouts or wheelies! I did chew up a new rear Battle Ax on the trip.

Maybe I just have that kinda luck.
 
The problem with WD-40 is that it is much more of a solvent than an oil. Look ast how easily it removes the old grease from the chain... It is VERY light and will penetrate the rings. Then as it is dissolving the grease in the rings, it leaves no protection for the chain to wear. It also prevents the new grease from sticking inside the chain rings once it has infiltrated.

There are a few ways to prevent this problem..

1st and most obvious... do not use WD-40 ;)
2nd Use WD-40 on a rag (just spray the towel, don't soak it.
3rd Use diesel, Kerosene or Jet Fuel (yeah.. everyone has a Jet in their backyard...)

I personnally use method #2. After the chain is cleaned, i run the bike on the stand to get the chain warmed up a bit (usually after cleaning the bike completely, so the chain is cold) and spray on the chain at the rear sproket some Maxima Chain Wax. Then let the chain cool down and the wax becomes grease, effectively getting inside the chain and o-rings.Wipe the fling that the WD-40 might have caused and voila!

U usually add wax to my chain after each rides.. That means 500-600KM (300-400 Miles)... On my GSX-R1000, the chain has 19000KM and still looks and feels brand new. After inspection, the chain has not worn much and is expected to be good for another 30-35000KM if i keep maintaining that way... Then again.. This Thursday, i'm gettin my Busa :p
 
To clean the rims, undertail, other metal parts, and even painted surface from grease, I very successfully use.... you guessed it WD-40. Just spray on it, and wipe with paper towel. Repeat if necessary, and finally, wipe with just clean paper towel. Works wonders for me.
 
I use household 409 cleaner to get chain lube off. Works great and doesn't hurp pain or leave a film.
 
my bro borrowed my chain wax but i just thought of something interesting. is there a lube with teflon available that doesnt sling? or even if it would sling, spray it on and let it sit and wipe the extra off. point is teflon is some of the slipperiest stuff on the planet and is used on a host of other things so why not chains? seems to me if its not already in the waxes and lube it should be
 
Im no expert at chains, wax or anything else but here is what I do know..

Everyone has an opinion of this method or that method.  This wax, oil, or lube vs that one.  No matter what you hear five other people have a contradiction to the madness.  What I do know is this.  

WD40 is thin, messy, and cheap and yet works but does tend to give a dry appearance over a short time.  It seems to work better as a cleaner than as a good lube.  They have been around since the dawn of time.

Kerosene cleans much better but man the clean up is even as worse, plus its one more thing to have a gas can around for.  (if you dont use it for other stuff).  How do you get rid of the smell on your hands?

Diesel same thing.

Im a city boi, and just dont have the multiple gas needs in my home.  Dont have a diesel lawnmower.  Anyway.

There are a number of good or better chain dedicated lubes, waxes, and sprays.  Even models that you can bolt right on the bike and lube as you ride.

WHICH EVER YOUR METHOD IS just use something.  Ever been behind someone and saw a chain break, beatin the shytt out of a bike or throwin the rider?  Ever been in front of a bike when the chain broke and threw the bike into another rider beside you?  What you need to be doing is helping your fellow riders out you see at the set with DRY RUST visually on the chains tooo!  Their mistakes could be your life!  seen it twice where riders died, several with just pride taken.

Seperatly!.

Being that Im anal about the "SLING OF WAX" and overspray on my shyttt this is what I did!.

Take a large piece of cardboard, backerboard, foam board etc..  

Cut a circle in one edge large enuff to fit over the the "HUB" on the rear but large enuff to cover most of the rim.  

since your NOT RUNNING THE MOTOR to lube the chain anyway RIGHT???...

With bike on stand, you can slide the RIM COVER over the hub from the rear inward protecting the rim etc.  With bike in neutral spin the back wheel by hand as you spray your cleaner/wax at the rear sprocket.  All overspray hits the RIM COVER and 98% gets only on the chain.  If your creative enuff you can do like I did and "fold" the top part over some to cover the ceiling area above the chain so it's almost a "BOX" over the rear sprocket.  Spray the hell out of it and not get any overspray or splatter on the rim or tailsection.

TIPS: If chain is mostly clean and "WARM" the "WAX" type products stick better.  Allow to dry 20-30 min or longer then NO FLING OFF onto wheels etc.  

To clean chain I use a grunge brush and good ole fashion elbow greeeese~!, then warm up and do above method.  Also if you clean it "REAL QUICK" at the end of your ride day then wax it's easier than waiting to everything cures to the chain the next day.

Worthless info but maybe someone can use it.  I almost never have to clean my rims after cleaning/waxing the chain.

Also once you get a good cardboard template have it converted to a piece of plexiglass, lasts longer and you can see thru it. Put a handle on it if you want. Thats how I do my truck tires when I armor all the tires to keep the rim clean!

ICE

LUBE THE FRIGGIN CHAIN.



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