Does this seem like its right (my dyno #'s)

The Fletch

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well fellas sorry it took so long but as you requested i finaly have some lagit info for you. here are my dyno numbers. i was hoping for a bit more what do you guys think? does anyone have similar mods that can i can compare my numbers to? my mods are in my signature. oh i didnt do a big bore if anyone was wondering just 13:1 drop in pistions. let me know what you all think. thanks

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I think them are some dang good numbers! Wow. What would you get with a 1397?
 
It is actually kinda depressing to me. Based on your mod list I am going to have to spend a chunk of $$ to get to the numbers I want to get at and they aren't as high has yours are.

Don
 
i am not sure what i would get, the guy who built my bike said that i would see around 200 with the mods he just did so its close but just didnt make it. he also said if i wanted to see 200 that bad just take out the air filter and wrap the headder for the dyno run and it will but for a 1300 on pump gas 195 is pretty good, the kawasaki isnt even close.i just got off the phone with him and he said he would hook me up over the winter and do a 1429, he said i should see around 220 then, but thats another 1200, but i will be selling the pistons i just put it 13:1 if anyone wants them when i do this.
 
what mods do you have don? or what do you ride?
I have a 05LE. Bought it with Muzzy CF bolt-ons, a PCIIIusb and a K&N. This is my second Busa. It only had 1595 miles on it when I picked it up and I got a very good deal. I am looking to do HMF Dual High Mount (CF), pair valve, power commander ignition module and a custom tune. Not really sure where that will get me, but prolly mid 160s I hope.

Don
 
well do you know what your bike made stock? i bet from all that you will see 10 to 15 hp so you might hit low 170's
 
well do you know what your bike made stock? i bet from all that you will see 10 to 15 hp so you might hit low 170's
I have no idea what it made stock but several of the other 2005 owners have posted 150 -153whp. So even if I get lucky enough to a 15whp gain at most it would be 168, which would be fine. I have all the original pieces parts, I may put the stock cans back on it, the stock filter and unplug the PC just to see what it is running. Then for S&G put the k&n and the cans back on, plug in the PC and see what it does.

Don
 
take out the airfilter....get four short stacks in there....run some C12 fuel (you have the compression for it) ......and if your cams are degreed right and your map is good (I saw no A/F mixture listed).....you might hit the 200HP mark.
If you are running 195HP on pump gas.....then you are right where you should be.

Hell, even a tight chain can cost you a few HP on a dyno.

Without a turbo or NO2...200 is an elusive target.

I know what's depressing you....all that $$$ into a carpenter head!
A rule I like to follow....is anything more than simple bolt-on pieces equals about 75~125.00 for every ONE HP gained at the rear wheel.

Remember that while you are 'only' seeing about a 40HP gain at the rear wheel (using 155RWHP as a standard) ... you are up to about 225~230 at the crank.


My friend with a micron pipe/P-n-P head/yosh cams/mapped/J&E 13:1 slugs and some well spent dyno time made the same power as you on his 04LE.
 
You know more and more I'm feeling that the money you spend on porting , polishing , pistons , cams , degreeing and all the other things like Ti valve springs , Exhaust , Air filters , Head spacers , etc, etc...starts adding up . Seems like you'd be better served with a Ghetto Turbo Kit . I don't know a lot about engine building but it seems this 1397's still don't put out the amount of horse power as the turbos and cost just as much , if not more to build .
 
I knew there was a loss, I just didn't know the percentage and had never heard anyone reference here before. It is a big deal over on the SVTperformance board and ways to minimize it.

Don
 
At 13:1 compression, which is pretty high, are you having any issues with over-heating. Talked to a few guys with Big Bore motors, and they said after you bump up the compression past 12:5/1 you start having some serious issues over the long-run. And reliability seems to suffer quite a bit after 12:5/1. Wondering if this is something your builder talked to you about, or if you have heard this before?



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At 13:1 compression, which is pretty high, are you having any issues with over-heating. Talked to a few guys with Big Bore motors, and they said after you bump up the compression past 12:5/1 you start having some serious issues over the long-run. And reliability seems to suffer quite a bit after 12:5/1. Wondering if this is something your builder talked to you about, or if you have heard this before?
All true...prolly more so with the BB kits than a block that was prolly only honed a bit.

I was riding with my freind here in the FL heat and traffic...it wasn't anything the muzzy fan/engine ice couldn't cope with.

Taking meat from the cylinder sleeves is how the heat warps them in most cases...or allows fissures to form.

As long as it's mapped right (tis better to err on the side of a rich mixture, rather than lean) ...and he isn't riding with the front wheel in that air the whole time (difficult for oil flow that way)....a stock bore higher compression kit could be as long lived as any other. OR.... He could always go with a high volume oil pump gear.

I knew there was a loss, I just didn't know the percentage and had never heard anyone reference here before. It is a big deal over on the SVTperformance board and ways to minimize it.[/QUOTE]

there are lots of ways....most all of them expensive.
You have to fight everything from oil viscostiy to case internals to the wind.
By the time your power gets from the crank...through the clutch (which could be slipping a little) turning the input shaft on the tranny and those gears...then the output shaft and those gears ....the countersprocket...the chain..the rear weight of the rear wheel assembly...all chain waxes, oils lubes and bearings in between....it's all loss.

we really loose less than most....but just about all vehicles experience it...so be it.

I.E. my HEMI rated at 345HP would prolly yield a meager 275 (on a good day) at a dyno.

remember that just about everything is trying to take power from you.
 
those numbers look good to me! i wish i was hitn 195@the wheel-but that kinda juice mite get me into too much trouble!
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as long as your map is good n your runnin sum hi-octane fuel, thats prolly the most hp you can squeeze outa her. Like sum1 else already suggested, mebbe change your oil, check chain tension, n make sure your clutch is good.

good luck to ya brother, keep us posted:)
 
i just put some good oil in synthetic 10w40 i will check the chain tension too thanks fellas, but this winter i think i am just going to have to go with the 1429 kit he is only chargin me 1200 to do it and plus i will sell my 13:1 pistons so it will be just under 1000, and will put me well over the 200 mark closer to 220 he said
 
good luck with it....and BTW...anytime after late August / mid Oct.....this bike will make the 200 you're looking for.
When I was living in St. Clair Shores...power differences between mid-summer and fall temps were kind of crazy.
Wait for the colder, dryer air...
You're giving your builder a head start by building it in the winter...hehe.....make sure it does what you want in the summer time too!

Look up smithbusa on the sh.org forum....he's good people...has a turbo busa, does alot of his own wrenching... he might be able to help you out as an extra set of eyes.

Lastly, stop badgering us with your meager 195HP...
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Those numbers allow you to WALK away from any regular Busa as if they forgot to put the bike in gear.

We should all be so disappointed!
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