Drag Tools Launch Control

[lankeeyankee]

I noticed it one time leaving work, got on it hard and it started to spin (I guess) and the bike felt like I hit the air shift button. But the airshifter was switched off. The bike killed istelf two times, and really upset the handling, as I was leaned over pulling pulling out of the parking lot onto the highway.

Guess that takes that possibilty out of the eqaution.
I only had loss of traction issues at one track and that track was horrible, meaning leaves, poor pavement etc. The local track I bracket race at preps the track very well and is also 660' of concrete. Even on test and tune nights without VHT being sprayed my bike has never broke the tire loose.
Not wanting to get off track of launch controls and slew rate but 2 questions, What tires are you running, and is your suspension lowered to cause your spinning issues track / street on a SWB

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

It had stock tires on it, and it was lowered in the rear, strapped in the front. Not sure how far it was dropped, I used adjustable links. Slightly more than the second hole on three hole links, I would guess.

Not to mention that I was 250lbs in shorts at the time

 

[Stevo80]

I have played with the STP openings, and I believe the magic rest there for SWB guys. IMO, it would be best to set up say position B with a "drag mode". Optimally you would need your bike tuned for this as well, but that's another topic. You can limit how much your bike opens up and in theory control your wheelie. Just like riding your bike in C mode. IMO taking off in C mode is not ever going to help you go "fast", maybe consistent though. You should be able to get low 1.60 60fts on a SWB. Good luck!

 

[04LE]

First off thanks for all the information in the thread.

allmotor01- i get what your saying. good idea ill have to use that!

I have played with the STP openings, and I believe the magic rest there for SWB guys. IMO, it would be best to set up say position B with a "drag mode". Optimally you would need your bike tuned for this as well, but that's another topic. You can limit how much your bike opens up and in theory control your wheelie. Just like riding your bike in C mode. IMO taking off in C mode is not ever going to help you go "fast", maybe consistent though. You should be able to get low 1.60 60fts on a SWB. Good luck!

Guess this is where I'll have to look and do some reading on adjusting the STP openings. I wasnt aware that we could tune the ABC maps independently now (another thing ill have to read how to do now).

Ludicrous Speed - while playing with the slew, if you were breaking traction I could imagine that to make the rpms jump. Do you think if you had adjusted the speed the rpms moved up to allow for the possibility of slightly breaking tracktion the invasion wouldnt effect bike performance as much? This way you could still have the power under some control and maybe have a controlled wheelie down the track.

Just a thought, as I am realizing this might be a more test/tune repeat a few hundred times.

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

My best edumacated guess is that if you made it sensitive enough to detect the rpm rising fast enough to detect a wheelie, it would be worse on the gear changes.

The track I usually run at is very well prepped, but when keeping the shifter wide open and using an air shifter, your tire WILL spin, very slightly. Just enough to chirp the tire with a SHinko Hook. That is all it takes to activate the slew control.

Like I said, I could be wrong. Have at it, and see what your results are like. Maybe you will learn something that will help us all

 

[04LE]

I will just didnt know where to start. At what RPM range for the slew, how fast, and how to adjust the timing.

 

[lankeeyankee]

[QaUOTE=Stevo80;2995861]I have played with the STP openings, and I believe the magic rest there for SWB guys. IMO, it would be best to set up say position B with a "drag mode". Optimally you would need your bike tuned for this as well, but that's another topic. You can limit how much your bike opens up and in theory control your wheelie. Just like riding your bike in C mode. IMO taking off in C mode is not ever going to help you go "fast", maybe consistent though. You should be able to get low 1.60 60fts on a SWB. Good luck![/QUOTE]
Thanks for the input steve. I am a cash bracket racer so as long as my mph is still around 114 in the 1\8 I am comfortable up to 12~15 mph difference on the big end.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Why are you running an air shifter on a swb if you don't mind me asking? Do you have your pegs mounted out of reach of the shifter?

My best edumacated guess is that if you made it sensitive enough to detect the rpm rising fast enough to detect a wheelie, it would be worse on the gear changes.

The track I usually run at is very well prepped, but when keeping the shifter wide open and using an air shifter, your tire WILL spin, very slightly. Just enough to chirp the tire with a SHinko Hook. That is all it takes to activate the slew control.

Like I said, I could be wrong. Have at it, and see what your results are like. Maybe you will learn something that will help us all

 

[Stevo80]

Why are you running an air shifter on a swb if you don't mind me asking? Do you have your pegs mounted out of reach of the shifter?

He's just funny that way!

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

Why are you running an air shifter on a swb if you don't mind me asking? Do you have your pegs mounted out of reach of the shifter?

Why not?? If you are racing, it is to your advantage to have one. First, my legs are too long to get back on the pegs to make the 1-2 shift. Second, when the bike starts to wheelie, you just hit the button. Third, I took it off the 04 in my sig, so it was free. Finally, it keeps from missing shifts ruining the transmission.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

I've never heard the correct term, so I'm assuming that STP= secondary throttle blades?
That's how Johnny and I are gonna tune my wheelie problem out of my bike in first gear. Just close them off somewhat at the desired RPM and bring them back after the problem, so to speak.

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

Ed zachary!

 

[Spkrdctr]

I have tuned my STP plates in first and second gear for the street. My bike had way too much grunt in first gear and was a real pain on the street. I pulled a good bit of power out of first. Then a little bit out of second and it is now a blast to ride on the street. 3rd thru 6th is factory stock. If you want to slightly reduce power by 30hp or so the STP plates are the way to go. It is all RPM controlled so you can set it up by how your dyno chart looks to dial it back. Or, test and tune like I did! (this takes awhile) I can't say enough good stuff about BoostbySmith and the ECU editor guys. I don't touch timing or A/F ratio at all.