Dropping Engine/Self Locking Nuts

[Down1Undah]

Gen 1, 2006
Hello everyone! Being that it is winter, and I've gotten tired of riding in 30-degree weather, I figured now would be the best time to drop the engine and bring it inside for maintenance. My cam chain has developed a nice little rattle at around 4-6k rpm, so I figure I should drop the engine and inspect the valves, valve clearance, and replace the cam chain and CCT.
This will be my first time dropping the engine out of a Hayabusa and I noticed that the manual I have says to replace the self-locking nuts for the rear engine mounting bolts.
My question is what's the size of the nuts in question, is there a part number for them or will a hardware store have them, and is there any other hardware that should be replaced when re-installing the engine?
Any tips, tricks, feedback, etc. will be greatly appreciated! I will also be responding to any and all questions

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I gotta question, why the blue type?

 

[Down1Undah]

I gotta question, why the blue type?

I figure if anyone wanted to skip my rambling and get to the question itd be easier to see

 

[Dustin02]

Done 2 engine swaps. Always reused the nuts...

 

[jwcfbd]

Done 2 engine swaps. Always reused the nuts...

As long as it still has a good running torque and you can't spin it on by your fingers you should be fine. If you want or need to replace any hardware you should be able to find the part numbers here.

https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/c/suzuki_motorcycle/parts

 

[Dustin02]

Yep, never had any issues with them. Thanks for the link and heads-up.

 

[BlueBacon]

Gen 1, 2006
Hello everyone! Being that it is winter, and I've gotten tired of riding in 30-degree weather, I figured now would be the best time to drop the engine and bring it inside for maintenance. My cam chain has developed a nice little rattle at around 4-6k rpm, so I figure I should drop the engine and inspect the valves, valve clearance, and replace the cam chain and CCT.
This will be my first time dropping the engine out of a Hayabusa and I noticed that the manual I have says to replace the self-locking nuts for the rear engine mounting bolts.
My question is what's the size of the nuts in question, is there a part number for them or will a hardware store have them, and is there any other hardware that should be replaced when re-installing the engine?
Any tips, tricks, feedback, etc. will be greatly appreciated! I will also be responding to any and all questions

Please do a post of any issues or hiccups and/or add pics to this one.
Sometime within the next 2 years, I'm gonna have to pull mine to do the transmission and everything you mentioned above.

 

[Berlin Germany]

Gen 1, 2006
Hello everyone! Being that it is winter, and I've gotten tired of riding in 30-degree weather, I figured now would be the best time to drop the engine and bring it inside for maintenance. My cam chain has developed a nice little rattle at around 4-6k rpm, so I figure I should drop the engine and inspect the valves, valve clearance, and replace the cam chain and CCT.
This will be my first time dropping the engine out of a Hayabusa and I noticed that the manual I have says to replace the self-locking nuts for the rear engine mounting bolts.
My question is what's the size of the nuts in question, is there a part number for them or will a hardware store have them, and is there any other hardware that should be replaced when re-installing the engine?
Any tips, tricks, feedback, etc. will be greatly appreciated! I will also be responding to any and all questions

man?
4 that little work (valve clearance / changing the timing chain and its tensioner) u really wanna pull the engine?

sorry - but what a nonsense

all individual jobs (valve clearance / changing the timing chain and its tensioner) can easily be done with the engine still INSTALLED - the engine never has to be removed for this
- anyone who says that really has no idea!

and the self-locking nuts on the motor axles (rear) can be used again and again without any problem.They do not work with plastic inserts but with steel inserts - take a close look!

...to replace the self-locking nuts for the rear engine mounting bolts.......
in what chapter / at what page in the suzuki - manual did u read that b..lshit?

in my german one i never found that hint.

and ALWAYS remember that the Japanese only use metric threads and to get these, it's a bit difficult in the USA

and ALWAYS remember that the Japanese only ! use metric threads and to get these, it's a bit difficult in the USA
and ! the Japanese use different pitches for the screws/nuts M10x1.5 and M10x 1.75 and so on - watch for that !!
only once used the wrong thread pitch / gradiant u killed the screw (or nut) !!!!

 

[Down1Undah]

Please do a post of any issues or hiccups and/or add pics to this one.
Sometime within the next 2 years, I'm gonna have to pull mine to do the transmission and everything you mentioned above.

Will definitely add pictures and update when I get around to doing it, still waiting for/ordering parts

 

[Down1Undah]

man?
4 that little work (valve clearance / changing the timing chain and its tensioner) u really wanna pull the engine?

sorry - but what a nonsense

all individual jobs (valve clearance / changing the timing chain and its tensioner) can easily be done with the engine still INSTALLED - the engine never has to be removed for this
- anyone who says that really has no idea!

and the self-locking nuts on the motor axles (rear) can be used again and again without any problem.They do not work with plastic inserts but with steel inserts - take a close look!

...to replace the self-locking nuts for the rear engine mounting bolts.......
in what chapter / at what page in the suzuki - manual did u read that b..lshit?

in my german one i never found that hint.

and ALWAYS remember that the Japanese only use metric threads and to get these, it's a bit difficult in the USA

and ALWAYS remember that the Japanese only ! use metric threads and to get these, it's a bit difficult in the USA
and ! the Japanese use different pitches for the screws/nuts M10x1.5 and M10x 1.75 and so on - watch for that !!
only once used the wrong thread pitch / gradiant u killed the screw (or nut) !!!!

I appreciate the feedback! And yes usually I do work with engine in frame, but where I am at the moment it is 30 degrees F and I unfortunately do not have a garage to do work in so I figured if I drop the engine and move the engine inside it would be a lot more comfortable to work on than out in my driveway

 

[Down1Undah]

As long as it still has a good running torque and you can't spin it on by your fingers you should be fine. If you want or need to replace any hardware you should be able to find the part numbers here.

https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/c/suzuki_motorcycle/parts

Thank you for this greatly! Great stuff