Dry kit for gen2 questions

[Aly Kabil]

Relying on any fuel that is from a station to be consistent makes me nervous. That's just me though. Seasonal changes, contaminants, mistakes in delivery, etc.
For everyday riding a difference of a few octane points probably won't result in catastrophic failure. But when you start pushing components to their limits your margin of error gets considerably smaller.
For instance, if the fuel delivery truck accidentally dumps a few hundred gallons of 87 octane into the 100 octane tank do you think the station is gonna pump it all out and fill it back with 100 octane? Or will they just put a few hundred more gallons of 100 octane on top of the 87 and call it good?

i got your idea

 

[Mr Brown]

To echo what @busakiller is saying, I noticed that when spraying down track picked up mph but not et. You will need to spray out the gate to pick up et. Ramp it in, and as he advises work up to your goal.

 

[Aly Kabil]

You should be able to spray a 80 shot on pump gas. You will just need to take timing out. Buy lots of spark plugs..... you will want to work your way up to a 80 shot. What I have done is get a good solid na motor map made. Then add fuel where the nitrous will be activated and put some added fuel in and make a pull in 4th gear. Look at the tune and see what the afr is. Once you figure out how much fuel you need for a 20 shot you should be able to calculate what you need when you up the jet size. On my bike with the power commander I add 1 number for 1 hp. So a 20 shot I will add 20 to whole area for my nitrous. That gets me super close. But that’s my application.

I use to spray all of it at 8000 rpm in 1st gear. Bike never really wheelie or spun doing that. But I started to ramp it in at a earlier and netted a big gain. On a 55 shot going from all of it at 8k no ramp and trying 50% at 7k with a 1 sec ramp I gained 2.5 mph in the 1/8. That’s a big gain.

the sooner you can spray the faster you can go. Lots of trial and error when you first start out but after some time you will get real good at it.

1st of all i appologize if i ask too much but am still new to the NOS world and am here to learn,
so for example i should start with 20 HP jet and add 8% fuel in the 100% TPS area and look for my AFR to be 12:1, try the bike in the track if every thing went ok i should now start to get bigger and richer...right!!

should i look for richer or leaner than 12:1

 

[busakiller]

On a 20 shot 12.1 is fine. When you go much bigger you might want to run it a little richer. Depending on how your bike is set up will determine How and when you should ramp the nitrous in. Also something you should do is add some fuel in before the nitrous comes on.

say my nitrous comes on at 8k. So when I’m wot open before 8k my afr is 13.0 ish. what you will want to to do is sprinkle some extra fuel 500 rpms before the spray comes on. So shot for 12.1 afr right before the spray comes on. I believe it makes for a smoother Transition.

 

[Aly Kabil]

On a 20 shot 12.1 is fine. When you go much bigger you might want to run it a little richer. Depending on how your bike is set up will determine How and when you should ramp the nitrous in. Also something you should do is add some fuel in before the nitrous comes on.

say my nitrous comes on at 8k. So when I’m wot open before 8k my afr is 13.0 ish. what you will want to to do is sprinkle some extra fuel 500 rpms before the spray comes on. So shot for 12.1 afr right before the spray comes on. I believe it makes for a smoother Transition.

Thank you so much for the info, can you tell me more about how i should ramp the nitrous?

 

[busakiller]

Thank you so much for the info, can you tell me more about how i should ramp the nitrous?

It all depends on what you set up is. Tell us about your bike. Length, lowered, gearing, shock, weight clutch and what’s your best time so far on motor.

 

[Aly Kabil]

It all depends on what you set up is. Tell us about your bike. Length, lowered, gearing, shock, weight clutch and what’s your best time so far on motor.

i have gen2 2008 stock engine with brocks full system short meg, brocks clutch mod, sprint airfilter f1-85, 4 short stacks, PCV with brock map and quickshifter and also woolich software and to reflash my ECU, will extend it 9" over stock, 18/42, lowered front and rear with brocks strap and links, stock rear shock but i will revavle it next week, shinko tires 20 PSI

WE DONT HAVE IN POLAND RUBBER TRACKS

best time 9.472 and its the best time ever made in Poland and am holding the record of it with stock engine stock wheel base.


i will be using wizard of nos pulsoid dry kit direct port

i will install gen1 springs and valves

i will also use ECU editor to take advantage of the NOS progressive and run the stock injectors 50/50, retard the ignition 2 degrees and i will make NOS harness like boostbysmith harness and install bosch pump or AEM

210 lbs suited

 

[Mr Brown]

If you can get rid of the woolich software, do so.
Ideally you want to ramp in as much as you can as fast as you can. Start small and work your way up, learn what your setup can handle. Basic drag racing rules apply, like don't change more than one variable at a time, or you won't know what caused the change. Document everything do you can look back at what works.

 

[Aly Kabil]

If you can get rid of the woolich software, do so.
Ideally you want to ramp in as much as you can as fast as you can. Start small and work your way up, learn what your setup can handle. Basic drag racing rules apply, like don't change more than one variable at a time, or you won't know what caused the change. Document everything do you can look back at what works.

YES i will do this exactly, i will use ECU editor and i will document everything down and step by step that what made me win in the stock class (am always flowing the same rule 1 change at a time)

but i need to understand more what ramp is doing and how to get the best out of it

 

[Mr Brown]

A progressive controller works by cycling the solenoid on and off rapidly, (yes, WON pulsoids are solenoids lol) and in doing so metering the nitrous. As ramp increases so does the length of the "on" part of the cycle, until at 100% ramp the solenoid is constantly on. Trick is to bring it in as fast as possible without losing control. Does that make sense?

 

[Aly Kabil]

A progressive controller works by cycling the solenoid on and off rapidly, (yes, WON pulsoids are solenoids lol) and in doing so metering the nitrous. As ramp increases so does the length of the "on" part of the cycle, until at 100% ramp the solenoid is constantly on. Trick is to bring it in as fast as possible without losing control. Does that make sense?

yeeaaaaaah now makes more sense, that why people for example make 50% 1st gear 80% 2nd gear and 100% the rest of the gears... now its more understandable

 

[Dennis]

Below is a vid of my bike, 1441, stock valves, heavy springs, stock rods, 80 hp nitrous starting the ramp at 1.2 seconds, 93 octane pump gas (we have a gas station that is very particular and careful with their fuel that all performance guys go to). Since this vid I have switched to MS109 which is about 104 MON.

My thoughts: Woolich works fine if you are using the auto-tune and data logging functions. If not, just use ECU Editor and get rid of the Woolich box. If you do use Woolich as described, I personally wouldn't run a Power Commander but some guys like to I realize. You will still need EE to manage nitrous. You will get the best results with a dedicated nitrous controller because you can shape the nitrous curve as you need and not be limited by the parameters that EE supports. Lots of good advice in this thread regarding working up to 80 hp. I started with 60 first day out and went to 80 after that was proven out.

You don't need to buy any harnesses, they are easy to wire up yourself.

I pay about $4 a pound for nitrous by the time I get it in the bottle. I have a couple large cylinders and fill my own. I assemble bottles for about $90 with good valves and have probably 13 of them.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

yeeaaaaaah now makes more sense, that why people for example make 50% 1st gear 80% 2nd gear and 100% the rest of the gears... now its more understandable

HI. I find it is best to start with the strongest motor. Buy a used motor and build it. It is not cheep to do it. My motor cases mods $1,000.00, head valves,springs cams porting total $6,000.00, Pistons JE custom $700.00 C P Corrillo custom rods $13,000.00 but I am going turbo + nitrus to make about 1000HP for land speed racing.

 

[Aly Kabil]

HI. I find it is best to start with the strongest motor. Buy a used motor and build it. It is not cheep to do it. My motor cases mods $1,000.00, head valves,springs cams porting total $6,000.00, Pistons JE custom $700.00 C P Corrillo custom rods $13,000.00 but I am going turbo + nitrus to make about 1000HP for land speed racing.

LoooooooooL its good start

 

[Aly Kabil]

Below is a vid of my bike, 1441, stock valves, heavy springs, stock rods, 80 hp nitrous starting the ramp at 1.2 seconds, 93 octane pump gas (we have a gas station that is very particular and careful with their fuel that all performance guys go to). Since this vid I have switched to MS109 which is about 104 MON.

My thoughts: Woolich works fine if you are using the auto-tune and data logging functions. If not, just use ECU Editor and get rid of the Woolich box. If you do use Woolich as described, I personally wouldn't run a Power Commander but some guys like to I realize. You will still need EE to manage nitrous. You will get the best results with a dedicated nitrous controller because you can shape the nitrous curve as you need and not be limited by the parameters that EE supports. Lots of good advice in this thread regarding working up to 80 hp. I started with 60 first day out and went to 80 after that was proven out.

You don't need to buy any harnesses, they are easy to wire up yourself.

I pay about $4 a pound for nitrous by the time I get it in the bottle. I have a couple large cylinders and fill my own. I assemble bottles for about $90 with good valves and have probably 13 of them.

WooooooooW thats start to be exciting, i will be jumping between whoolich and EE for tuning because i can adjust the NOS from EE and save the file and open in woolich and it will be saved with the nos sitting from EE and i will keep using the auto tune from woolish and remove the PCV

 

[Dennis]

WooooooooW thats start to be exciting, i will be jumping between whoolich and EE for tuning because i can adjust the NOS from EE and save the file and open in woolich and it will be saved with the nos sitting from EE and i will keep using the auto tune from woolish and remove the PCV

That is what I do. Be careful, a small mistake can cause bad results. Not being able to see what nitorus changes you did in EE when you are also making changes in Woolich can be costly. I have some new rules to prevent reoccurrence.

 

[ItsDooomz]

That is what I do. Be careful, a small mistake can cause bad results. Not being able to see what nitorus changes you did in EE when you are also making changes in Woolich can be costly. I have some new rules to prevent reoccurrence.

Oh wow, that thing same up quick. Are you ok? If you don't mind sharing Dennis, what what's the cause? Clutch failure?

 

[Dennis]

Oh wow, that thing same up quick. Are you ok? If you don't mind sharing Dennis, what what's the cause? Clutch failure?

Oh yeah, I'm fine. I raced the other bike the next weekend (and won). The cause was I turned off the nitrous (I thought) but actually had 80 hp shortly after leaving the line.