Johnnie Phatt
Registered
Well that explains everything
Well that explains everything
Out of curiosity what is the difference between a wet kit and a dry kit please?
Wet is fitted to mix with the fuel, is more complicated to set up, where the dry shot runs directly through the airbox/induction.Out of curiosity what is the difference between a wet kit and a dry kit please?
it would be a short thread.... Richard and rcc stand behind their whole turbo systems with a 2 YEAR WARRANTY...……. its not close imho, and it shows what kinda man and company he runs...… and I would imagine nitrous systems are much similar..... cheap and high end kits.... money matters.Wet is liquid nitrous that is injected into the throttle bodies just like fuel is. It has it's own set of injectors separate from the fuel injectors. Wet is apparently better for higher shots like over 60 hp. Seems pretty dangerous to me since the nitrous can pool in the air box and explode.
Dry is a gas that shoots into the air box and goes down the T bodies with the the air. You can just blow the nitrous in the air box or you can use a spray bar to direct it at the T-body bores.
IMO, if you're starting off, go with dry. Safer and totally bolt on. That's what I have done.
If you really get into a high end nitrous system, it will cost enough that you might as well just go with a turbo.
Off topic but nitrous v turbo v SC would be a great thread.
I would imagine nitrous systems are much similar..... cheap and high end kits.... money matters.
Sorry, but this is wrong....Wet is liquid nitrous that is injected into the throttle bodies just like fuel is. It has it's own set of injectors separate from the fuel injectors. Wet is apparently better for higher shots like over 60 hp. Seems pretty dangerous to me since the nitrous can pool in the air box and explode.
Dry is a gas that shoots into the air box and goes down the T bodies with the the air.
lots of misinformation when it comes to nitrous…. but the electronics controlling how much fuel to be added and WHEN... the fuel map itself... is sooooooooo important.... nitrous is instant on power... controlling lean spikes at the moment of NOS impact seems to be the kiss of death.... and any controller can only respond and datalog sooo quickly.... I mean really can any controller or datalogger really read and respond as fast as combustion occurs.Sorry, but this is wrong....
All nitrous is liquid in the bottle, it turns to a gas as soon as it's released to the atmosphere. Dont believe me? Open the valve on a full bottle and see what comes out. Wet or dry refers to how the fuel is added, not the nitrous oxide itself. As said, a wet kit uses a separate fuel system, dry uses the existing mapped to add fuel, that's why wet kits are used for bigger shots, the factory injectors can only do so much. Nitrous doesn't "pool" anywhere at atmospheric pressure, and it doesn't explode, it's not flammable. Dry isn't any less "dangerous" than wet, adding oxygen without adding fuel is what breaks sh!t.
Yes, you're right, fuel is very important.... I ran a wot microswitch and arming toggle, without both of those active the system didn't function. Controllers fluctuate on and off to ramp the amount of nitrous, a stuck open solenoid means it all hits at once. A tune is able to adjust for a small shot, if you keep bottle pressure consistent, jetting and fuel is simple enough. I've always built my maps to run a little rich, it leaves power on the table, but it's a safety cushion. I ran a 30 shot before putting the turbo on, nitrous has it's advantages, but I am glad I switched.lots of misinformation when it comes to nitrous…. but the electronics controlling how much fuel to be added and WHEN... the fuel map itself... is sooooooooo important.... nitrous is instant on power... controlling lean spikes at the moment of NOS impact seems to be the kiss of death.... and any controller can only respond and datalog sooo quickly.... I mean really can any controller or datalogger really read and respond as fast as combustion occurs.