Electrical Woes...

IL_Bow_Man

Registered
Ok...need some help. 1 1/2 years ago I replaced the reg/rectifier due to the dang plug melting and such. Things got better, charging voltage went back to normal. Fast forward to the end of last year, voltage took a dump on me. So I check the reg/rec again and it seems to be testing out fine. So I head to stator...get there and the connector there is toast and I am pretty certain connectors may have been touching each other...not sure though. It was a bad mess once I got it apart.

Fast forward to today. Got new stator in because the other was not testing out right. Get her installed, put some new plugs on the harness side. Stator is testing out good, putting out the right volts and what not...but I am getting max 13 volts back to battery. That is with reg/rect testing out as good.

Here is the question...is there a chance that when/if the stator wires shorted out that it fried the reg/rec even though it is testing out ok?
 
What brand meter ? I have a Klein meter that is now a full volt off . If you have a second meter TRY it to make sure 13 is a accurate reading . Also what rpm are you testing at ?
 
There has just been recall on reg ,volts at battery are 14.3 at tick over with New reg, they were 14.2 with old reg , never had any problems
 
Ok...need some help. 1 1/2 years ago I replaced the reg/rectifier due to the dang plug melting and such. Things got better, charging voltage went back to normal. Fast forward to the end of last year, voltage took a dump on me. So I check the reg/rec again and it seems to be testing out fine. So I head to stator...get there and the connector there is toast and I am pretty certain connectors may have been touching each other...not sure though. It was a bad mess once I got it apart.

Fast forward to today. Got new stator in because the other was not testing out right. Get her installed, put some new plugs on the harness side. Stator is testing out good, putting out the right volts and what not...but I am getting max 13 volts back to battery. That is with reg/rect testing out as good.

Here is the question...is there a chance that when/if the stator wires shorted out that it fried the reg/rec even though it is testing out ok?

After starting the bike, disconnect your + lead from the battery and take another reading without the battery in the circuit.
Just to confirm, how did you test the RR?
 
After starting the bike, disconnect your + lead from the battery and take another reading without the battery in the circuit.
Just to confirm, how did you test the RR?

I checked the diodes I guess. as per Rick's motprsports video on you tube. I didn't have my manual with me to verify the readout though.
 
I checked the diodes I guess. as per Rick's motprsports video on you tube. I didn't have my manual with me to verify the readout though.

OK
Lets check your meter.
You'll need a working car or truck for this test.
Set your meter to DC Volts and measure the voltage at the battery of said vehicle.
Next start the vehicle and take another reading at the battery.
If your meter shows 12.xx-13.xx volts with the vehicle off and 14.xx volts with the vehicle running, chances are your meter is fine.

If the previous test is successful, are you able to:

#1. Start the bike, set your meter to AC Volts and measure the output of the stator on all three possible combinations of the yellow wires at the RR plug.
At idle and at 3K-5K RPM. all three should be very close readings.

#2. With your bike running and the RR plugged into the bike, disconnect the + lead from the battery and with your meter set to DC Volts put the black probe from your meter on the ground post of the battery and put the red probe from your meter on the + lead you just removed from the battery. Note the voltage at idle and at 3-5k rpm.

If the voltage is during #2 is 14.xx connect the + lead back to the battery and take another reading. If the voltage drops with the battery connected I would look into trying another battery.

If your stator output is what it should be and you are still reading between 12.5-13V during #2, chances are it's a back RR.

Report back with your findings and we can help further.
 
I will give these a go tonight. but for the most part i have done these except disconnecring battery. after i got the stator in i checked at idle and at 5k. volts were almost identical across all 3 phases. at 5k they were higher then at idle.

I was going to check wires between reg/rect and statir too. i should pull the same volts on the 3 wires going into the reg/rec as i do at the stator...correct?
 
I will give these a go tonight. but for the most part i have done these except disconnecring battery. after i got the stator in i checked at idle and at 5k. volts were almost identical across all 3 phases. at 5k they were higher then at idle.

I was going to check wires between reg/rect and statir too. i should pull the same volts on the 3 wires going into the reg/rec as i do at the stator...correct?

We need the numbers you come up with so please go through the steps again.
Yes to your last question.
 
From the stator at idle. 36 at about 5k 70. Across all pairings.

But if the bike was supposed to stay running when I disconnect the battery....we may have an issue. It dies as soon as I disconnect.
 
The stator numbers look ok. I think mine are 25 and 8x

Hmmmm
I think it should. let my try that on my bike when I get to the shop and I'll verify.
 
I did the same thing on my bike and the bike stops.
I presumed that the bike's stator and RR could keep the bike going without the battery much like you CAN do on any car or truck, but no.
I removed the PCV and the same thing happened.
My purpose in trying to get you to disconnect the Batt is to remove it from the equation.

Try this instead. If you own a car or truck:
Remove the battery from the bike
Use jumper/booster cables to connect the car battery to the + and - leeds of the bike
Don't start the car, you just need the battery.
Start the Bike and verify what voltage you have at idle and then at 3k RPM.
If the readings are as they should be then I would say the problem is the battery in the bike.
 
You have to be thorough in testing. Just do it.
btw did you follow these directions yet:

OK
Lets check your meter.
You'll need a working car or truck for this test.
Set your meter to DC Volts and measure the voltage at the battery of said vehicle.
Next start the vehicle and take another reading at the battery.
If your meter shows 12.xx-13.xx volts with the vehicle off and 14.xx volts with the vehicle running, chances are your meter is fine.

If the previous test is successful, are you able to:

#1. Start the bike, set your meter to AC Volts and measure the output of the stator on all three possible combinations of the yellow wires at the RR plug.
At idle and at 3K-5K RPM. all three should be very close readings.

#2. With your bike running and the RR plugged into the bike, disconnect the + lead from the battery and with your meter set to DC Volts put the black probe from your meter on the ground post of the battery and put the red probe from your meter on the + lead you just removed from the battery. Note the voltage at idle and at 3-5k rpm.

If the voltage is during #2 is 14.xx connect the + lead back to the battery and take another reading. If the voltage drops with the battery connected I would look into trying another battery.

If your stator output is what it should be and you are still reading between 12.5-13V during #2, chances are it's a back RR.

Report back with your findings and we can help further.
 
Meter checked out ok.

#1 From the stator at idle. 36 at about 5k 70. Across all pairings.

#2 If the bike was supposed to stay running when I disconnect the battery....we may have an issue. It dies as soon as I disconnect.

I guess I will just get a reg/rec sometime and throw it in to see what it does.
 
Ok...so o borrowed a reg/rectifier from someone. volts are up to 13 or just above. my question now....does it matter on which wire goes into a certain lead on the unit?
 
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