Essential sensors

BusaTransplant

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New member, first post.

So I’ve been doing as much research as I can before creating an account to ask here. I purchased an engine, ecm, harness, And TB’s from a 2001 Hayabusa. I’m trying to find which sensors are the vital ones for it to run so I can simplify the harness for a swap to a different frame. Going to use the MotoGadget mUnit for my power distribution/fuse block, and the MotoGadget MotoScope Pro for my Gauge. Any expertise appreciated.
 
Fyi
2001 Hayabusa ecu and electronics only work with a 2001 Hayabusa.
99 and 2000 are both different.
2002-2007 are basically the same, and support ecu flashing.
99-01 Can be upgraded to 02-07, and there is a thread here on the conversion.
Just to make sure I’m studying the correct harness the 2001 is a K1 correct?

Also the engine, harness, ecm, and TB’s are from the same bike so electronics there should be safe. I’ve been pretty thorough in my parts acquisitions to make sure it’s compatible model year parts.
 
Thank you! So kickstand, tip over, (is the clutch switch a start safety similar to the side stand, what other function does the switch have?)
All 3 are basically just a break in the circuit.
You have to pull the clutch lever in, which pushes the pin on the switch, completing the circuit allowing it to start.
If all 3 are looped/wired together with no switches, it's like the switches were never there at all.
 
I have a lot of plug in adapter stuff to make it easy to install a factory harness in another vehicle without hacking anything up Hayabusa Car-Kit Install Package
So the harness has some smashed smaller plugs here and there, and the harness will be going on a motorcycle just not a busa frame. I’ll check that kit, but for routing and the sake of fitment on the bike I’m still thinking of modifying the harness. I’ll be in touch if that changes though.
 
Some pics of my test benches, if you can zoom in moght be helpful

20211114_125029.jpg


20211113_121453.jpg
 
All 3 are basically just a break in the circuit.
You have to pull the clutch lever in, which pushes the pin on the switch, completing the circuit allowing it to start.
If all 3 are looped/wired together with no switches, it's like the switches were never there at all.
I know you've been here long enough to know that u can't just bypass the clutch switch unless you want the ecu running in the "neutral"map. But since we all get forgetful sometimes I guess we can let this one side :poke::lol:.
 
So looking at this “PAIR” valve, I noticed it has a 2 wire connector, but the “Baro” sensor has 3 wires(is this baro as in a barometric pressure sensor to compensate for altitude?) and can I keep the baro and delete the rest of the “PAIR” if so?
Baro is atmospheric pressure correct, and needed. The pair stuff controls the flapper door in the airbox and isn't really needed for running. You can reflash ecu if 02 and newer and use pair to trigger a nos solenoid or a shift light
 
Baro is atmospheric pressure correct, and needed. The pair stuff controls the flapper door in the airbox and isn't really needed for running. You can reflash ecu if 02 and newer and use pair to trigger a nos solenoid or a shift light
Great to know, I’m still figuring out a setup for my air box. But I have no flapper door to control so it will go! Also thanks to your bench photos I got the rest of my harness labeled last night!
 
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