FI error code C040

Dai. said:
Most likely related to your clutch switch as mine is throwing the same code,everything has been checked as per oem spec and reset through my SDS tool but keeps happening. Changed out 2 pressure banjo switches and still the same error,throw the oem M/C back on and the problem is gone.

Also could be possible which is taken from a factory manual.

1. ISC (Idle Speed Control) Valve or Circuit "Open" or Shorted to Ground.
2. Idle Speed lower than the Desired Idle Speed. ie. Air passage Clogged, ISC valve is fixed(Stuck), ISC valve preset Position is incorrect.
3. Idle Speed is Higher than Desired Idle Speed. ie. ISC Valve hose connection(line fell off somewhere), ISC Valve is Fixed(Stuck), ISC Valve preset Position is incorrect.
Click to expand...

I read that too Dai.
1. does not apply,my ISC was removed 10 years ago with turbo install.
2. my idle is perfect. I have a shift light/RPM combo,RPM is set and viewed in incriments of 10 not 100,it is deadly accurate.
3. see above
Thanks for the look in thou Dai. Hoping its the clutch switch althou I took it out of the equation by jumping the wires. Motor still died. :redface:
Rubb.
 
I do
rubbersidedown said:
I read that too Dai.
1. does not apply,my ISC was removed 10 years ago with turbo install.
2. my idle is perfect. I have a shift light/RPM combo,RPM is set and viewed in incriments of 10 not 100,it is deadly accurate.
3. see above
Thanks for the look in thou Dai. Hoping its the clutch switch althou I took it out of the equation by jumping the wires. Motor still died. :redface:
Rubb.
Click to expand...
I don't think clutch switch works by jumping it. Needs a open closed signal. Always open or always closed won't work I believe. I might be wrong.
 
ZeePopo said:
I do

I don't think clutch switch works by jumping it. Needs a open closed signal. Always open or always closed won't work I believe. I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
I think it was @GIXERHP and @Boosted Cycle Perf that I read from awhile back that you would want the circuit left open not closed. Use a jumper wire to start the bike then remove it and ride. If still getting the code and it is actually referring to the clutch switch I would start looking at those wires for the switch to make sure they're not grounding anywhere. Just kind of thinking out loud here rubb since I have no experience with anything like your beast. If it comes down to it what's the closest place that you would have to send the beast to have someone get it on a dyno?
 
ZeePopo said:
I do

I don't think clutch switch works by jumping it. Needs a open closed signal. Always open or always closed won't work I believe. I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Jumping the connection will start the motor as if the clutch lever was pulled closing the circuit. It then needs to open, this stops accidental engagement of the starter motor circuit. I believe.
Rubb.
 
Dopey said:
I think it was @GIXERHP and @Boosted Cycle Perf that I read from awhile back that you would want the circuit left open not closed.Correct. Use a jumper wire to start the bike then remove it and ride.Will try that. If still getting the code and it is actually referring to the clutch switch I would start looking at those wires for the switch to make sure they're not grounding anywhere.Circuit tested,but will try your idea. Just kind of thinking out loud here rubb since I have no experience with anything like your beast.Yer smart Dopey. If it comes down to it what's the closest place that you would have to send the beast to have someone get it on a dyno?
Click to expand...
Nearest dyno,a ferry ride + some miles to IDK the skillz of the guy.
Richard at RCC Turbo built the bike and remembers it. I have reached out to him a couple times by phone. He did not have an instant answer.He suggested riding the bike to him for diagnosis. See the map below.The beast won't make it around the block,can't see riding it across the country.He has had guys ship their bikes to him. Shipping there and back + parts/labor...that's thousands of dollars I just don't have or my bike would be on a truck as we speak. It's time for it to get a good dyno tune anyway. Next choice...down to Texas. I am buggered here by geography.
Its part of living in the best city in Canada as far as the number of days in the year you can ride,that's one of the reasons why I live here. I stay insured and ready to ride 365. Everyone jokes about Canada and the frozen tundra...sometimes it doesn't snow in my town for years.
Rubb.

me on the left,RCC on the right,BCP at the bottom. There could be a bunch more experts out there,I just don't know of them.

north-america-.gif


It's the freakin' Burmuda Triangle...
rofl.gif
 
@rubbersidedown

as i wrote elsewhere

GP-sensor?
in the "wall" behind the clutch?
even gen2 gp-sensors sometimes send stupid signals, my brother told me.

get a resistor of 6.8 kilo ohm and 1/4 watt into the 3-angled conn. and bridge the pink and black wire by it
that way you tell the ecu you are in 5th gear.
the blue wire is only for green neutral gauge to (-) i guesss - for testing you should can forgett this - i guess again

or get a brand new gen2 gear-sensor, plug it to harness , turn the gp-sensor to 5th gear and do a test.

or take an old gear-sensor , weld a short wire from mid-point to 5th gear position and do the test.
 
@Berlin Germany you think the gear position sensor kills the motor when it malfunctions?
Gear position indicator is functioning normally.
Hey,I'll try anything. I'll add it to 2morrows list along with kickstand switch and Dopeys clutch switch "Start/Remove/Ride"
Rubb.
 
Berlin Germany said:
@rubbersidedown

as i wrote elsewhere

GP-sensor?


or get a brand new gen2 gear-sensor, plug it to harness , turn the gp-sensor to 5th gear and do a test.

or take an old gear-sensor , weld a short wire from mid-point to 5th gear position and do the test.
Click to expand...
This test is a little dicey there Frank. Sending a signal to the boost controller that the trans is in 5th gear and I'll have 10LBS of boost in first gear. IDK man. I might pass on this idea.
The AMS 1000 is already set to Hardcore Mode to deal with a faulty sensor issue.
Rubb.
 
GIXERHP said:
Willie, this is why you got the Brembo switch from me, the Hydraulics ones cause the problem!
Click to expand...
Who the fug is Willie....

@fallenarch & @Dopey no joy with your idea's. Thanks very much for the effort thou.
Started bike,disconnected clutch switch,rode,motor died.

I can however may it happen (die) at will now. Tested the theory about 5 times.

Take it up to 3 to 4000 RPM,chop the throttle,as RPM's start to drop,maybe 1 second into wind down...motor dies.

See my new ad in the classifieds later today.

"POS Turdblo Busa for sale. Comes with free gremlin."
"Mechanic's Special"
"Needs Love"

flag wave.gif


throw-the-damn-towel-gif-4.gif


towel.jpg



Sell the Busa,get something easier to fix...

battery bike.jpg


Rubb.
 
rubbersidedown said:
Jumping the connection will start the motor as if the clutch lever was pulled closing the circuit. It then needs to open, this stops accidental engagement of the starter motor circuit. I believe.
Rubb.
Click to expand...
Correct
 
rubbersidedown said:
So when I jumped the clutch switch wires taking the switch out of the equation,putting in a hydraulic switch would fix the issue?
Maybe I'm not understanding something?
Rubb.
Click to expand...
202mphbusa said:
Clutch safety switch bypassed how? Connect the two wires to start the bike. Disconnect. If the bike still shuts off. It really can’t be the clutch switch. Unless you have a chafed or shorted wire somewhere
Click to expand...
Like 202 said you eliminated the switch when u bypassed it that way, now that means either like him and I were thinking you may want to follow those wires and be sure they aren't rubbED thru anywhere. If they are all good then I'm gonna have to guess the code your getting isn't pointing toward the clutch switch as an error.
 
Hello brothers,@Dopey @202mphbusa @fallenarch @ZeePopo and the others who might be looking in on my dilemma.
The chase continues:
Still thinking about clutch circuitry.
  • AMS settings...turned off clutch input,no joy
  • checked where clutch input for the AMS was taken from,thinking it must be taken from pin # 50 on the ECU,it is not.Wire leads down in the direction of the side stand,reading the schematic it looks as if the 2 are interconnected perhaps only by the ground wire
  • disconnected other turbo controller,no joy
  • pulled clutch input to the AMS,no joy
  • cut 12V to the AMS,take it right out of the equation,no joy
  • just for fun,everything hooked back up,just pulled ground to the AMS,effectively the same as pulling the 12V supply...right?
  • motor flashes,idles,runs...take it out,beat on it,many throttle chops,etc.Motor does not stall,backfire or die.No code C40
  • cluster gp indicator now goes crazy as it does not now what gear its in,you get a blank indicator or IE trans in first gear,indicator shows 5,etc. as it tries to figure out what gear its in,that is a signal that gets bypassed for info to tell the boost controller how much boost to deliver in each gear.The signal should then be sent back to the cluster by way of the ECU, I think. LOL.
  • so...I will take it out for a long ride just to take coincidence out of the equation
  • then dig deeper into AMS input/output (if all goes well,on long test ride) AMS gone south?
  • its all I can figure,so far
  • thank you guys with all your help thus far,the night terrors are still there but now are reduced to nightmares and hopefully soon,back to normal..."The cold sweats" :laugh:
  • Rubb. :bowdown:
 
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