Finally purchased a new gen

This is how mine looks with the two mini H1 projectors.
A5A47477-2A94-483F-8D4E-BFD74666EAB5.jpeg
 
Yes Hauie , your bike will be sooo much better if you set the correct sag front and rear . It will ride over irregularities better , aid your braking , and might even be more stable at speed .
 
As said, sag IS very important
Sag is set to the rider's weight.
At 170lbs, these should get you in the ballpark, but it needs to be measured.
Front preload, 3-4 lines visible
compression and rebound, 3-5 full turns counter clockwise from fully right.
Rear preload, you'll have to loosen the lock rings, should be about 3 threads visible above the top ring, when the ring is tight.
Compression and rebound should be 18-22 full turns counter clockwise from fully right.
Then, ride it, stop, half turn/click, clockwise or counter clockwise, ride, stop, adjust until it feels right.
The goal is a smooth and firm ride, not a marshmallow, not beating you up, but absorbing the bumps in the road without upsetting the bike.
Picture the suspension split into 3 positions.
The lower 3rd of travel should be how much the suspension settles under it's own weight.
The middle third is where most of it's work is done absorbing bumps.
The top 3rd is like an over rev, it should only have to work to soak up big bumps, like a pothole.
Ideal sag is 30-35mm track, 35-40mm street.
As tracks are fairly smooth, and real roads have real bumps.
Tire psi is very important as well
36-38 psi hot are also good ballpark numbers.
Suspension set up, good tires and psi, and quality brakes make a huge difference in handling.
As mentioned above, "Jinkster attacks suspension" is a great how-to thread.
Even with many variations of sportbike suspension, suspension sag is set basically the same over all bikes with adjustable suspension.
Trial and error is part of learning to set sag, but it is very important, and should be the first thing done. After you get the hang of it, you can learn to "read" the tires, and know how to correct improper wear and improve handling.
Try the settings I listed and go for a ride.
Stop, and adjust only one setting at a time(yes, do the forks evenly as a pair).
Either way you go will make it better or worse, and you'll notice. Keep trying until it starts to feel more stable in a turn, without being too stiff.
Don't worry about screwing it up either.
Just turn everything fully clockwise, count the turns/clicks, and start over.
There is no base setting.
You are trying to get the suspension to compress over a bump, and rebound as quickly as possible, without feeling sloppy or stiff.
let us know if you have any questions.
Also, chain slack is very important.
Too much slack, and throttle response suffers, sprockets and chain wear faster, and the chain can come off.
Too tight, sprockets and chain wear faster, the chain can break...and, suspension sag will not and cannot be correct. If the chain is too tight it limits rear suspension travel, and negatively effects handling.
If the front sag is perfect and the rear is off, the whole ride suffers. The opposite is true as well, rear is correct, front is off, the whole ride suffers.
Good luck with it.
 
sixpack577 said:
As said, sag IS very important
Sag is set to the rider's weight.
At 170lbs, these should get you in the ballpark, but it needs to be measured.
Front preload, 3-4 lines visible
compression and rebound, 3-5 full turns counter clockwise from fully right.
Rear preload, you'll have to loosen the lock rings, should be about 3 threads visible above the top ring, when the ring is tight.
Compression and rebound should be 18-22 full turns counter clockwise from fully right.
Then, ride it, stop, half turn/click, clockwise or counter clockwise, ride, stop, adjust until it feels right.
The goal is a smooth and firm ride, not a marshmallow, not beating you up, but absorbing the bumps in the road without upsetting the bike.
Picture the suspension split into 3 positions.
The lower 3rd of travel should be how much the suspension settles under it's own weight.
The middle third is where most of it's work is done absorbing bumps.
The top 3rd is like an over rev, it should only have to work to soak up big bumps, like a pothole.
Ideal sag is 30-35mm track, 35-40mm street.
As tracks are fairly smooth, and real roads have real bumps.
Tire psi is very important as well
36-38 psi hot are also good ballpark numbers.
Suspension set up, good tires and psi, and quality brakes make a huge difference in handling.
As mentioned above, "Jinkster attacks suspension" is a great how-to thread.
Even with many variations of sportbike suspension, suspension sag is set basically the same over all bikes with adjustable suspension.
Trial and error is part of learning to set sag, but it is very important, and should be the first thing done. After you get the hang of it, you can learn to "read" the tires, and know how to correct improper wear and improve handling.
Try the settings I listed and go for a ride.
Stop, and adjust only one setting at a time(yes, do the forks evenly as a pair).
Either way you go will make it better or worse, and you'll notice. Keep trying until it starts to feel more stable in a turn, without being too stiff.
Don't worry about screwing it up either.
Just turn everything fully clockwise, count the turns/clicks, and start over.
There is no base setting.
You are trying to get the suspension to compress over a bump, and rebound as quickly as possible, without feeling sloppy or stiff.
let us know if you have any questions.
Also, chain slack is very important.
Too much slack, and throttle response suffers, sprockets and chain wear faster, and the chain can come off.
Too tight, sprockets and chain wear faster, the chain can break...and, suspension sag will not and cannot be correct. If the chain is too tight it limits rear suspension travel, and negatively effects handling.
If the front sag is perfect and the rear is off, the whole ride suffers. The opposite is true as well, rear is correct, front is off, the whole ride suffers.
Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
lol... six and his sag
 
sixpack577 said:
As said, sag IS very important
Sag is set to the rider's weight.
At 170lbs, these should get you in the ballpark, but it needs to be measured.
Front preload, 3-4 lines visible
compression and rebound, 3-5 full turns counter clockwise from fully right.
Rear preload, you'll have to loosen the lock rings, should be about 3 threads visible above the top ring, when the ring is tight.
Compression and rebound should be 18-22 full turns counter clockwise from fully right.
Then, ride it, stop, half turn/click, clockwise or counter clockwise, ride, stop, adjust until it feels right.
The goal is a smooth and firm ride, not a marshmallow, not beating you up, but absorbing the bumps in the road without upsetting the bike.
Picture the suspension split into 3 positions.
The lower 3rd of travel should be how much the suspension settles under it's own weight.
The middle third is where most of it's work is done absorbing bumps.
The top 3rd is like an over rev, it should only have to work to soak up big bumps, like a pothole.
Ideal sag is 30-35mm track, 35-40mm street.
As tracks are fairly smooth, and real roads have real bumps.
Tire psi is very important as well
36-38 psi hot are also good ballpark numbers.
Suspension set up, good tires and psi, and quality brakes make a huge difference in handling.
As mentioned above, "Jinkster attacks suspension" is a great how-to thread.
Even with many variations of sportbike suspension, suspension sag is set basically the same over all bikes with adjustable suspension.
Trial and error is part of learning to set sag, but it is very important, and should be the first thing done. After you get the hang of it, you can learn to "read" the tires, and know how to correct improper wear and improve handling.
Try the settings I listed and go for a ride.
Stop, and adjust only one setting at a time(yes, do the forks evenly as a pair).
Either way you go will make it better or worse, and you'll notice. Keep trying until it starts to feel more stable in a turn, without being too stiff.
Don't worry about screwing it up either.
Just turn everything fully clockwise, count the turns/clicks, and start over.
There is no base setting.
You are trying to get the suspension to compress over a bump, and rebound as quickly as possible, without feeling sloppy or stiff.
let us know if you have any questions.
Also, chain slack is very important.
Too much slack, and throttle response suffers, sprockets and chain wear faster, and the chain can come off.
Too tight, sprockets and chain wear faster, the chain can break...and, suspension sag will not and cannot be correct. If the chain is too tight it limits rear suspension travel, and negatively effects handling.
If the front sag is perfect and the rear is off, the whole ride suffers. The opposite is true as well, rear is correct, front is off, the whole ride suffers.
Good luck with it.
Click to expand...

I dropped off the bike today for the initial 600 miles maintenance at the dealership. They were surprised I put that many miles in it (some going close to 180) in under a week, lol. That being said, I had work so I couldn’t set the sag. Once I pick it up today, I’ll ride back tomorrow on my off day and have them set it for me. Then suspension adjustment, I can just find a place with some corners and adjust it myself.
 
Hauie said:
I dropped off the bike today for the initial 600 miles maintenance at the dealership. They were surprised I put that many miles in it (some going close to 180) in under a week, lol. That being said, I had work so I couldn’t set the sag. Once I pick it up today, I’ll ride back tomorrow on my off day and have them set it for me. Then suspension adjustment, I can just find a place with some corners and adjust it myself.
Click to expand...

You, or someone your weight(including gear) needs to be sitting on the bike while it is measured.
 
sixpack577 said:
You, or someone your weight(including gear) needs to be sitting on the bike while it is measured.
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding, the sag is different from the suspension settings for stiffness/etc right? So I have the dealer set the sag with me on it, then test out the suspension myself later on.
 
Hauie said:
If I'm understanding, the sag is different from the suspension settings for stiffness/etc right? So I have the dealer set the sag with me on it, then test out the suspension myself later on.
Click to expand...
lol... ure gonna trigger sixpack….. his head is gonna explode
 
Hauie said:
If I'm understanding, the sag is different from the suspension settings for stiffness/etc right? So I have the dealer set the sag with me on it, then test out the suspension myself later on.
Click to expand...

It's basically the same thing.
Using the 3 adjustments, preload, compression, and rebound to set the suspension to perform idealy for the rider's specific weight.
Picture a bike moving down the road.
You want the seat/frame all staying level at the same heigth, while the suspension moves up and down below it, which gives you maximum control.
As opposed to the suspension And the bike itself bouncing up and down like a pogo stick.
 
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