First bike

[Mr Brown]

I thought Hann quit making kits years and years ago anyone know the answer to that?

He makes kits for cars still it seems, but as far as I know nothing for bikes. He still sells parts for bikes. Looking on his website he does use precision turbos for his builds now, but his bike kits used a Mitsubishi 16g back when his kits were popular.
@Boosted Cycle Perf may have some input.

 

[GMbusa]

Other than the Hahn kit it’s cool

 

[rubbersidedown]

@NYCDiesel Frank from Powerhouse talks about Hahn ... CLIC HERE BRO

Rubb.

 

[NYCDiesel]

Rubb - Thats hilarious I just messaged you that link haha, on post 10 of that thread is where its stated that they were using a newer turbo. Powerhouse seems to know what their doing and their right here next to me in NY and have stainless steel headers so if I ever have any serious issues I'll just upgrade to the SS and call it a day.

I think this dude does have a 2005 LE, I don't think hes lying about it but he does have the title so it does have me scratching my head. He sent me a picture of it with the original fairings and also a shot of this turbo which I don't believe is a 16g but I am far from a turbo guru. If someone could please shed some light on what kind of turbo this is it would be much appreciated. The kit was installed and tuned last year and still starts and rides like stock until you start getting around 5k and the boost starts coming on, according to him. I also got him way down on the price, WAY DOWN, near 8k, so if everything is what he says I can't see how I could go wrong, what about you guys ? Any help on the turbo would also really help me out a lot, thanks guys, you guys are the poop! Shoulda bought a busa from the get, after all I am 6'2 275lbs with tree trunks for legs it's like I"m finally coming home haha.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Sounds like you are a go.

I can't tell from that pic,sorry Bro.

Frank had a huge following on here,if he's close to you,make him your new "best friend" just in case. I wouldn't mention The Org unless he does.
Keep us posted mt brutha.
Rubb.

 

[NYCDiesel]

Sooo I pulled the trigger and picked her up last weekend and soooooo happy that I did, once I saw it in person and took her for a ride I knew I had to buy her lmao The turbo lag is almost non existent, currently shes running at 10lbs on pump and runs like a raped ape, I'm gonna take her to Powerhouse for some tuning to get some baseline dyno numbers. Also need to find a tail tidy for her, any suggestions ? Well here she is, let me know what you guys think!

 

[rubbersidedown]

Sweet action Diesel.
We were searching up fender eliminator kits the other day. Lots were sold out. IDK why. Maybe start yer own thread on the subject and we can put that question to bed.
Looks tuff Bro.
Rubb.

 

[BigBSBusa]

Were you able to work out the year of the bike? Was the '05 tank just cosmetic to go with the carbon fairing fairings?

 

[Bumblebee]

WOW is a word to describe it...great looking steed.

 

[Mathewrussell52]

Bike is cool the carbon looks even better than the first pics. But what kind of guy buys $3,000 fenders and put gas station turbo emblems on them.

 

[hayabuser]

Remove the "turbo" emblems... don't want to advertise when you're out fishing.

 

[NYCDiesel]

BigBSBusa - It was an 05 LE after all seller was just confused haha, worked out for the best though because if it was an 06 I would have had WAYYY more questions.

Rubb - I was having the same issue when I was looking around smh I'll do some more digging if nothing turns up I'll follow your suggestion, thanks man

Bumblebee - Thanks bro she is quite the looker if I do say so myself

Mathewrussell and hayabuser - That's what I was saying earlier in the thread !! They started to grow on me a little so I was thinking about just removing the ones on the front fairings and keeping the ones on the rear, yay or nay ? I was hoping the numerous blasts to 200mph+ would rip them off but those suckers are on their good haha

 

[BigBSBusa]

Lose them both!

 

[Mr Brown]

As above, lose the stickers, the fromage factor is high with them! If I were you I'd take it somewhere and have it thoroughly gone through, but if you take it to powerhouse don't mention this place, he pulled his sponsorship and left on less than good terms.
It's better looking in those pictures for sure. Enjoy!

 

[Mythos]

Not to mention will leave most H2's eating my dust

Yup. A boosted hyperbike is way better than an H2 and I'd probably take a turbo busa over an H2R too.

I would not think that this bike would be a investment or really hold value

NYCDiesel, I'm sure you know bikes are always a liability, never an investment, not a financial investment anyway.

Also need to find a tail tidy for her, any suggestions ?

Take off the rear fender, heat up some aluminum straps and bend them. It's a sharp bend you need so you really have to heat that aluminum up and maybe bend around a small drill bit or do a double bend like I did. Drill holes and you're set. I used the OEM license plate light to power two lightbolts. The cross lighting doesn't make it easy to read at night but who cares about that? It's lit.

Don't know if it's the same on the Gen1 but probably. The tag light is on the LH side of the tail.

Hook into the tag light circuit and tape up your LED wires so they don't touch. If you buy a busa rear fender off Ebay for about $10 you could cut the conector off the tag light wire and solder that in. Then you'd have a nice plug to hook in properly. Or maybe you could push the contacts out of the OEM male connector and get to hook up to the power source and ground. This was so long ago, I don't really remeber why I took these pics. You'll figure it out though.

Get some nasal cannula if you know anybody in a nursing home who has access to that stuff but just don't get them fired, please. They get fired for looking at somebody the wrong way. The smallest cannula might look best but trust me, it's too tight. The insulation on the wires will crack if you pull it through that littlest tube even if you lube with silicone. Could short. A little RTV and shrink tube and you're done. Lightest weight tail tidy there is.

Just be careful about bending that aluminum. Mine cracked on one side. I didn't heat it before bending. You might want to go with 1/8" aluminum instead of 1/16" --maybe-- 1/8" will fatigue more than 1/16"...anyway heat it up thoroughly with a propane torch. Carefull it doesn't fall into a puddle of molten aluminum on your leg because I hear it could do that. Never had a problem. It stays flexible for about 20 minutes even after it has cooled. Fun, give it a try just be careful. The one side that held up has been fine for 9 years. Better fix that cracked one this summer, I have it wired together now wich is not real safe.

Remove the "turbo" emblems... don't want to advertise when you're out fishing.

I say keep them all and decide later. I think they're cool especially the ones on the tail.

if you take it to powerhouse don't mention this place, he pulled his sponsorship and left on less than good terms.

It's ok. I mentioned the org when I talked to Frank a few months ago. He didn't have anything bad to say about the org. Told me to say hi to Michael Paris Huberger.

 

[rubbersidedown]

OK Bro, lets get started.
No,No,No, and no fuggin way.
Its a Turbo Busa...not a 1965 Harley Davidson.
No muffler tape.

Peg hanger sticks out too much. Must be black.
No reflectors are allowed.
Tail needs cleaned up. (we'll get to that)
Are the inners carbon? dont have me glasses.If so,cool.

Lets clean up that azz shall we...
I've used a couple. You could also just change out the tail lite lens to "Euro style" matches yer front turn lens.

Anyway,I have used a few undertails. Different lites,different locals.

For a tag hanger I have made my own. 1 piece of clean ally hangs it,one piece mounts it, lite can be added. Looks clean. Personalized tag,optional.

Other option,drill into the swing arm. Cops just love the angle,really hard to read,but a nice clean look.

Better pic of the hangers,now black. Hole fillers. Matching pegs,well you would need silver to match yer rear sets. May as well get the carbon mirrors. Example of the euro tail lite.

You rarely see these,I believe a Gen 1 option only...2 piece grab bars.

No offence,but I dont care for the look of the stator cover u are sporting.
The stock looks better. Or the aftermarket with the kanji. I have a kanji one going on mine in the next couple days...the stock one if yers if wanted.
Don't hide yer turbo...let 'em know what they are up against.Let it all "hang out" with a giant filter. Thats just MOA.

Don't know what yer running for oil,but I love Amsoil. Richard at RCC Turbo's recommended it,he builds awesome turbo motors...he might know something. IDK.

Yer red levers are way cool,I was going to offer you up some carbon ones,but I like your. Ive gone frm stock to shorties to carbon to goth blades. See,dont take my advice on anything.LOL.
I had these face plates,but they have turbo ones as well. They also have turbo lids,I went with custom. The aftermarket face plates are cool as you can up the speed limit shown. You of course need the MPH.

Let's see,how else can we spend all your money. LOL.
Well, thats enuff for now.
I have a couple freebies I could send you in keeping with your carbon thing,just flip me back shipping (if you want,not necessary).
Let me know if you want the stator cover as well.

Ride on Brother...
Rubb.

 

[Mythos]

I agree with everything Rubb said except I'd like to see black rearsets. $400. Stick with Vortex. I have Satos and they don't work any better than Vortex plus they look like they should be on a smaller bike. Sato is only a few ounces lighter than Vortex but that's because Satos have flimsy heel guards you would never actually want to step your heel against when you dip a knee. As far as an aftermarket stator cover, those will be a lot heavier than stock if you get one designed for racing. I have Woodcraft and plan to go back to stock some day. If you get a cheap aftermarket stator cover, it might be about the same weight as stock. Look at the inside to see if it appears to be as thin as the cast stock one. If you crash, a Woodcraft will fair much better than stock.

Yup. A boosted hyperbike is way better than an H2 and I'd probably take a turbo busa over an H2R too.



NYCDiesel, I'm sure you know bikes are always a liability, never an investment, not a financial investment anyway.



Take off the rear fender, heat up some aluminum straps and bend them. It's a sharp bend you need so you really have to heat that aluminum up and maybe bend around a small drill bit or do a double bend like I did. Drill holes and you're set. I used the OEM license plate light to power two lightbolts. The cross lighting doesn't make it easy to read at night but who cares about that? It's lit.

View attachment 1623151

Don't know if it's the same on the Gen1 but probably. The tag light is on the LH side of the tail.
View attachment 1623152

Hook into the tag light circuit and tape up your LED wires so they don't touch. If you buy a busa rear fender off Ebay for about $10 you could cut the conector off the tag light wire and solder that in. Then you'd have a nice plug to hook in properly. Or maybe you could push the contacts out of the OEM male connector and get to hook up to the power source and ground. This was so long ago, I don't really remeber why I took these pics. You'll figure it out though.
View attachment 1623153

Get some nasal cannula if you know anybody in a nursing home who has access to that stuff but just don't get them fired, please. They get fired for looking at somebody the wrong way. The smallest cannula might look best but trust me, it's too tight. The insulation on the wires will crack if you pull it through that littlest tube even if you lube with silicone. Could short. A little RTV and shrink tube and you're done. Lightest weight tail tidy there is.

Just be careful about bending that aluminum. Mine cracked on one side. I didn't heat it before bending. You might want to go with 1/8" aluminum instead of 1/16" --maybe-- 1/8" will fatigue more than 1/16"...anyway heat it up thoroughly with a propane torch. Carefull it doesn't fall into a puddle of molten aluminum on your leg because I hear it could do that. Never had a problem. It stays flexible for about 20 minutes even after it has cooled. Fun, give it a try just be careful. The one side that held up has been fine for 9 years. Better fix that cracked one this summer, I have it wired together now wich is not real safe.
View attachment 1623154



I say keep them all and decide later. I think they're cool especially the ones on the tail.


It's ok. I mentioned the org when I talked to Frank a few months ago. He didn't have anything bad to say about the org. Told me to say hi to Michael Paris Huberger.

Well, those pics of the tail tidy were taken many years ago so I had to struggle to remember exactly what I was doing with the electrical connection. Looking at the pics now, it appears there is a large white plug for the taillight/brake light and a smaller white plug for the tag light. I crimped female audio contacts onto the lightbolt wires, I used a micr screwdriver to unlock and press the OEM male contacts out of the tag light plug and I connected the aftermarket lightbolts to these wires. The lightbolt wires pass through holes in the undertail and I believe those holes are catches for hooks on the fender or maybe they are water holes?? Can't remember, I think they were catches. They might let water in after the fender is removed...never had a problem and I have been in a couple serious and lengthy downpours on that bike.

Disconnect tag light. It's the small white plug.

Clip the zip tie and remove the rear fender.

Rout lightbolt wires (nasal canula recomended otherwise, shrink tube will work) through holes in undertail.

There will be two positives and two negatives since you have two lightbolts. Just gang up the + with the other + and the negative with the other negative.

Crimp one audio contact onto the + lightbolt wires and a second audio contact onto the negative lightbolt wires.

Remove male contacts from the plug (as shown in the quoted reply) and insert + to + lightbolt audio contact, - to - lightbolt audio contact. You should use a test light to determine which OEM wire is positive and which is negative. LEDs will not work in reverse polarity like a tungsten bulb and it's obviously a good idea to keep your circuit's -/+ running as they are marked even if components work on reverse polarity. Also you may need to squeeze the audio contacts smaller with pliers before inserting the tiny male OEM contacts.

Tape up the lights well. MAKE SURE the +/- contacts are isolated from one another by electrical tape so they cant touch positive to negative. Zip tie them to the frame.

Those larger OEM zip ties are meant to be unlocked and reused BTW. No need to snip the big ones.

I did not use a fuse although the LEDs will draw only ~20 mA each compared to the OEM tag light which probably has at least 5 amps on tap. LED lightbolts have a resistor which should prevent overload from a low amp fused circuit like tag light. Worse case scenario, the LED wires get too hot and insulation melts and shorts. Then you have to replace it and put a 1 amp or smaller inline fuse in. No biggy. Never had a problem with mine running on stock fuse. I doubt there is high enough amps in the tag light circuit to cause an overheat. Those lightbolt wires are not that long and they don't look too much smaller than the OEM wires.

Plug open fender holes with bolts and nuts. I suggest getting plastic bolts to save weight if they are only used to plug the boltholes.

Attach brackets and licence plate with lightbolts.

It's way more work than some of the manufactured tail tidy's I'm sure but it looks good and it weighs almost nothing.

 

[08BusaKY]

Sooo I pulled the trigger and picked her up last weekend and soooooo happy that I did, once I saw it in person and took her for a ride I knew I had to buy her lmao The turbo lag is almost non existent, currently shes running at 10lbs on pump and runs like a raped ape, I'm gonna take her to Powerhouse for some tuning to get some baseline dyno numbers. Also need to find a tail tidy for her, any suggestions ? Well here she is, let me know what you guys think!

View attachment 1623117

View attachment 1623118

View attachment 1623119

Nice, congrats!

 

[michael parris heuberger]

OK Bro, lets get started.
No,No,No, and no fuggin way.
Its a Turbo Busa...not a 1965 Harley Davidson.
No muffler tape.

View attachment 1623167

Peg hanger sticks out too much. Must be black.
No reflectors are allowed.
Tail needs cleaned up. (we'll get to that)
Are the inners carbon? dont have me glasses.If so,cool.

View attachment 1623168

Lets clean up that azz shall we...
I've used a couple. You could also just change out the tail lite lens to "Euro style" matches yer front turn lens.

Anyway,I have used a few undertails. Different lites,different locals.

View attachment 1623169

View attachment 1623175

For a tag hanger I have made my own. 1 piece of clean ally hangs it,one piece mounts it, lite can be added. Looks clean. Personalized tag,optional.

View attachment 1623171

Other option,drill into the swing arm. Cops just love the angle,really hard to read,but a nice clean look.

View attachment 1623174

Better pic of the hangers,now black. Hole fillers. Matching pegs,well you would need silver to match yer rear sets. May as well get the carbon mirrors. Example of the euro tail lite.

View attachment 1623173

You rarely see these,I believe a Gen 1 option only...2 piece grab bars.

View attachment 1623176

No offence,but I dont care for the look of the stator cover u are sporting.
The stock looks better. Or the aftermarket with the kanji. I have a kanji one going on mine in the next couple days...the stock one if yers if wanted.
Don't hide yer turbo...let 'em know what they are up against.Let it all "hang out" with a giant filter. Thats just MOA.

View attachment 1623177

Don't know what yer running for oil,but I love Amsoil. Richard at RCC Turbo's recommended it,he builds awesome turbo motors...he might know something. IDK.

View attachment 1623172

Yer red levers are way cool,I was going to offer you up some carbon ones,but I like your. Ive gone frm stock to shorties to carbon to goth blades. See,dont take my advice on anything.LOL.
I had these face plates,but they have turbo ones as well. They also have turbo lids,I went with custom. The aftermarket face plates are cool as you can up the speed limit shown. You of course need the MPH.

View attachment 1623170

View attachment 1623178

Let's see,how else can we spend all your money. LOL.
Well, thats enuff for now.
I have a couple freebies I could send you in keeping with your carbon thing,just flip me back shipping (if you want,not necessary).
Let me know if you want the stator cover as well.

View attachment 1623179

View attachment 1623180

Ride on Brother...
Rubb.

Hi A little work with a drill and a grinder.

I did my rear passenger hangers