BoOsTeD-aLtY
Registered
Ok can someone give me a list of all that is needed to do this right the first time . I have a yellow 2013, and want to stay away from the PC5's and other do dads !
Flashing the 08 / ECU Editing software for GEN II Busas
- Thread starter stk64
- Start date
Assuming your com port set up is correct alls you need to do is open up a stock k8 map. Once created, open up your ignition map, and it will automatically give you 5th hear timing values, then go to limiters, and disable the speed limiter. If boosted or using nitrous also select hard fuel/ignition cut.
Once that's done save your file on your computer. Turn the bike on, flip the switch on the interface box to the "flash" position, and click flash ecu on the menu. It will go through a bunch of steps. When it's done flashing the computer will let you know. Flip the switch down on the interface box, turn the ignition off then back on, then start. Then your good to go.
Once that's done save your file on your computer. Turn the bike on, flip the switch on the interface box to the "flash" position, and click flash ecu on the menu. It will go through a bunch of steps. When it's done flashing the computer will let you know. Flip the switch down on the interface box, turn the ignition off then back on, then start. Then your good to go.
BoOsTeD-aLtY
Registered
"oversimplified steps" below (check out youtube/google for detailed HOW-TOs)
1. download the ECU Editor Program
2. buy the harness and flashing interface (see pic below)
3. connect #2 above to bike/laptop
4. set up laptop
5. start flashing
DISCLAMER: I attempted to do this but "wimped out"......too technical for me. So sold my set up and will instead send out my ECU to get "flashed"
good demo video that describes setting up laptop, etc.
1. download the ECU Editor Program
2. buy the harness and flashing interface (see pic below)
3. connect #2 above to bike/laptop
4. set up laptop
5. start flashing
DISCLAMER: I attempted to do this but "wimped out"......too technical for me. So sold my set up and will instead send out my ECU to get "flashed"
good demo video that describes setting up laptop, etc.
Johnnycheese
Registered
2013need another harness
BoOsTeD-aLtY
Registered
do you have a picture or a link to the correct harness for the 2013 ?
IBENI
Registered
Hey guys. Been trying to figure this out but thought it might be better to ask here in case some of you have had a similar issue.......
Bought my 2010 Busa with Woolich racing harness installed (and supposedly re-mapped) along with a Power Commander ignition module and Quickshifter
Downloaded the software and connected to the laptop.
The first time, it seemed to work, let me read the serial number from the ECU so that I could determine the correct ECU part number bu then would not allow access because I was a newly registered user, using an original version box. That's ok, called Woolich and they rectified my registration.
From that point on, I have not been able to read from my ECU, anything at all. I've called Woolich twice and all they've said is that it must be the harness. I've tested the harness continuity and checked against the installation guide and it's all ok. Also, given that I haven't changed anything on the bike (not even ridden it) between it reading the serial number and my second attempt, I can't see how it can be the harness.
Any ideas?
Bought my 2010 Busa with Woolich racing harness installed (and supposedly re-mapped) along with a Power Commander ignition module and Quickshifter
Downloaded the software and connected to the laptop.
The first time, it seemed to work, let me read the serial number from the ECU so that I could determine the correct ECU part number bu then would not allow access because I was a newly registered user, using an original version box. That's ok, called Woolich and they rectified my registration.
From that point on, I have not been able to read from my ECU, anything at all. I've called Woolich twice and all they've said is that it must be the harness. I've tested the harness continuity and checked against the installation guide and it's all ok. Also, given that I haven't changed anything on the bike (not even ridden it) between it reading the serial number and my second attempt, I can't see how it can be the harness.
Any ideas?
sjg34
Registered
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the pin wasn't fully seated into the connector housing. We use pin insertion tools in aircraft, and that is what I had to get to get full engagement with the locking tab. Not sure if you have a radio shack in your area but they sell something similar.
What I used looked like the attached image but it was all plastic
It would be nice if Woolich included the tool with the kit, as many people are unfamiliar with its existence
IBENI
Registered
Thanks mate.
So, in speaking with Woolich through email last night, we have diagnosed the problem. There is no voltage across pins 4 and 8 which will cause the problems I'm having. They've given me the most likely culprit which is component U3. I've ordered some replacements and will change it over the weekend. Hopefully that'll be the issue solved.
So, in speaking with Woolich through email last night, we have diagnosed the problem. There is no voltage across pins 4 and 8 which will cause the problems I'm having. They've given me the most likely culprit which is component U3. I've ordered some replacements and will change it over the weekend. Hopefully that'll be the issue solved.
cosmic_ocean
Registered
Hi Greg... Thanks for the great support you are providing here. My question is regarding the Group 1,2 & 3 maps which can be selected in the WRT for the Gen-2 Busa. What are these three sets of maps and how will choosing each alter the performance? Unifying the ignition and fuel maps for all cylinders is clear, but need to decide on these group maps. Thanks
sjg34
Registered
As i remember group 1 is 1st and 2nd gear timing curve, group 2 is 3rd and 4th, and group 3 is 5th and 6th. Each table has more timing as you increase up in the groupw
I unified the tables using group 3, and added a little timing. woolich has a base map in the mapshare with a timing curve he has provided that is loaded to my mode B table that i will use some more when it warms up again. My curve is somewhere between stock and his and i have not had any problems with detonation
cosmic_ocean
Registered
Thanks for the elaboration. There are a few basic queries I need to clarify on:
1. Would not applying Group 3 maps in a unified manner increase the tendency for knocking through gears 1-4, at lower Rpms? Would using the Group 2 map in place of Group1 (without unifying the groups) be of help to overcome the power loss due to retard, stock timing? My aim is to have a Gen2 which has the same ignition and fuel characteristics of the 99 unrestricted busa (full timing in all gears, yet not unified).
2. What changes are to be applied to the fuel map to run the bike healthy on 91-93 octane?
sjg34
Registered
i dont have any issues with knocking at the lower rpms. i doubt there is much of a change in the timing curve in the cruise range.
if you want to play safe you could manually copy group 2 to 1 and see if you have any issues. is the motor stock? Do you always run 91 or better octane?
Did you buy the logbox pro with the wide band o2 sensor? To tune the fuel you will need something for a point of reference
The secondary throttle plates will make a noticable change also
cosmic_ocean
Registered
1. Yes, it's a full stock setup except for Racefit slipons.
2. No, I don't have a wide band Ho2 sensor. For now, I will be relying on autotune using the stock sensor.
3. Yes, Shell-91 it mostly is. Need to travel a long way to get 95+ octane fuel
3. What changes are suggested for the STP maps? Also did you turn the Pair Valve or anything else off before data logging for auto tune? Thanks a ton for the reply bud
sjg34
Registered
Let me see if I can export my tables to excel. My bike is stock except for an akropovic full system and a BMC filter. Not sure where you are located but if your altitude is close I would guess my settinga would be close, or maybe a little fat. Fat would be safe. My tables were created using a wide band at 1300 feet above sea level
for timing, the real difference in the different groups is at low throttle low rpm, wide open timing if I recall correctly is identical in all gears.
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