Frame slider installation
- Thread starter twotonevert
- Start date
heavyjeffd
Registered
I may get really flamed for this but.....
I'd seriously consider not putting sliders on your bike. I mean yes, it does provide a degree of safety from tipping it over, etc.
However, some people just really dislike them (like me). The guy I purchased my Busa from did a fantastic job of taking care of it, but I really really really wish he hadn't butched up the fairing to put noobie pegs (what I call frame sliders
) on. It literally almost killed the sale for me.
I have honestly never dropped a bike in such a fashion that sliders would have made any difference whatsoever (and I haven't been down much at all really, all minor, three times in over twenty years riding).
Just really be sure it's something you think you need before you butcher your plastics. That's all I'm saying.
(please don't flame me too bad)
I'd seriously consider not putting sliders on your bike. I mean yes, it does provide a degree of safety from tipping it over, etc.
However, some people just really dislike them (like me). The guy I purchased my Busa from did a fantastic job of taking care of it, but I really really really wish he hadn't butched up the fairing to put noobie pegs (what I call frame sliders
I have honestly never dropped a bike in such a fashion that sliders would have made any difference whatsoever (and I haven't been down much at all really, all minor, three times in over twenty years riding).
Just really be sure it's something you think you need before you butcher your plastics. That's all I'm saying.
(please don't flame me too bad)
8Daytona8
Donating Member
Man! They will make you so glad they are there after a minor garage tip, or the slick gas station OH sh!t, in the wet. These things happen, having a brain fart! the stand ain't down etc etc. As far as cutting the hole! All you really need is a 1/4 drill bit, some sand paper! Just get close to the spot get a measurment from one who has em. Make a template! You won't need to remove the fairing. wresling with those are harder than doing this! You have 2" of an area to play with. Good ins policy! Remember Even the best Ins policy has a deductible.
Some Items you will need to make this easy that i used . Black Magic marker, Masking tape, elect tape, 1/4" drill bit in good condition, and a drill to drive it, flash light, 5/16 Allen wrench bit, 5/16 6 point socket to hold the 5/16 Allen bit 3/8 or 1/2" drive, a breaker bar or stout ratchet to break the torque (40 ft lbs) of the OEM eng mounts. Top Fwd L&R side. Place the template R- side first, insert the tiny Allen wrench U should have in your tool kit thru hole in sheet into the fairing screw, align the top of paper with edge of your fairing, The paper should look vertical and fit the contour of the fairing edge. The spot on the paper bellow the inserted bit is the spot you violate. (drill) about 3/8" from the end of the drill bit wrap about 5 layers of elect tape, this is so you won't go too far thru the plastic and damage anything that may be in the way like a hose or wiring etc. There shouldn't be anything there but unless you can see in there this is to just make sure? After you get up enough gumption to dive in! (no drinkin) and drill the hole! clear the foam padding out of the way what you see is the head of the Top R-FWD engine mount Allen head bolt. Remove the template. ((( Mask the area with tape! as big a area as you feel safe with.))) This is where we want to make a hole big enough to insert the 5/16"Allen wrench and socket into. (Don't remove the bolt) its pretty tight anyway. The idea is, using the slider as a guide on the Allen bit and socket. Use the elect tape to wrap around the socket to center fit the slider now you can make a black marker circle on the masking tape on your fairing and its got to be on center! This will be the same process for the L-side. Now you have the center, start point and there are many ways to get the hole to where it needs to be. Some will make it 2" with a hole saw? I like to just use the drill bit to router out till its fitting the slider the way i want it! tighter. Remember R-side fairing will have to be removed or slid out to change the oil filter! So if you don't want to remove the mount bolt every time leave enough space around this one. The removing and installing of the slider from this point of having the hole there where it needs to be is a matter of having the rite tools. A good breaker bar to remove the OEM bolt and a torque wrench to install the slider and bolt! If you can do this which is rudimentary! Your home free! Otherwise the torque is 40 ft lbs dry, a little less if you oil the threads. The Pro-tek instructions say you have to loosen the pinch bolt on the R-side but I don't know why? If you do then this hole has to be at least 2" cause the fairing will have to be slid out in order to re torque the chinsey Allen head bolt. A copy of their instructions are with the pack on the back. or go to their site http://www.protekk.com They want to remove the fairing and mark it by using the slider bolt! That job suck and there is a good chance the fairing will be damaged every time they are removed. Another thing you will notice that I didn't like is the slider will stick out farther on the R than L. A few washers behind the Left side B4 the slider will even them out. The 10mm dia / 17mm hex head bolt is long enough, just make sure the washers fits in the mount recess with out jamming. Regular flat washers are to big. metric is needed. If you got the hole where it needs to be which is the most costly part of having this done! a bud with the rite tools or a trip to the shop is a cake walk and shouldn't cost but a few bucks.
Some Items you will need to make this easy that i used . Black Magic marker, Masking tape, elect tape, 1/4" drill bit in good condition, and a drill to drive it, flash light, 5/16 Allen wrench bit, 5/16 6 point socket to hold the 5/16 Allen bit 3/8 or 1/2" drive, a breaker bar or stout ratchet to break the torque (40 ft lbs) of the OEM eng mounts. Top Fwd L&R side. Place the template R- side first, insert the tiny Allen wrench U should have in your tool kit thru hole in sheet into the fairing screw, align the top of paper with edge of your fairing, The paper should look vertical and fit the contour of the fairing edge. The spot on the paper bellow the inserted bit is the spot you violate. (drill) about 3/8" from the end of the drill bit wrap about 5 layers of elect tape, this is so you won't go too far thru the plastic and damage anything that may be in the way like a hose or wiring etc. There shouldn't be anything there but unless you can see in there this is to just make sure? After you get up enough gumption to dive in! (no drinkin) and drill the hole! clear the foam padding out of the way what you see is the head of the Top R-FWD engine mount Allen head bolt. Remove the template. ((( Mask the area with tape! as big a area as you feel safe with.))) This is where we want to make a hole big enough to insert the 5/16"Allen wrench and socket into. (Don't remove the bolt) its pretty tight anyway. The idea is, using the slider as a guide on the Allen bit and socket. Use the elect tape to wrap around the socket to center fit the slider now you can make a black marker circle on the masking tape on your fairing and its got to be on center! This will be the same process for the L-side. Now you have the center, start point and there are many ways to get the hole to where it needs to be. Some will make it 2" with a hole saw? I like to just use the drill bit to router out till its fitting the slider the way i want it! tighter. Remember R-side fairing will have to be removed or slid out to change the oil filter! So if you don't want to remove the mount bolt every time leave enough space around this one. The removing and installing of the slider from this point of having the hole there where it needs to be is a matter of having the rite tools. A good breaker bar to remove the OEM bolt and a torque wrench to install the slider and bolt! If you can do this which is rudimentary! Your home free! Otherwise the torque is 40 ft lbs dry, a little less if you oil the threads. The Pro-tek instructions say you have to loosen the pinch bolt on the R-side but I don't know why? If you do then this hole has to be at least 2" cause the fairing will have to be slid out in order to re torque the chinsey Allen head bolt. A copy of their instructions are with the pack on the back. or go to their site http://www.protekk.com They want to remove the fairing and mark it by using the slider bolt! That job suck and there is a good chance the fairing will be damaged every time they are removed. Another thing you will notice that I didn't like is the slider will stick out farther on the R than L. A few washers behind the Left side B4 the slider will even them out. The 10mm dia / 17mm hex head bolt is long enough, just make sure the washers fits in the mount recess with out jamming. Regular flat washers are to big. metric is needed. If you got the hole where it needs to be which is the most costly part of having this done! a bud with the rite tools or a trip to the shop is a cake walk and shouldn't cost but a few bucks.
+1 That's how ya do it(Luvanicebum @ Sep. 06 2007,20:05) I coax a crow to peck a hole roughly where he wants to, then with the fairing off and propped against the side of the house, I blast a hole through it with a 357 mag hollow point (some sanding will be neccessary)
Then I reinstall the fairing and drill through the 6" opening into anything solid, by anything, I mean anything not made of rubber or plastic. (Only a hack would do that).
Then I cut a 8 inch piece of rebar and threadlock it into the freshly drilled hole.
Last thing is to thread the marshmellows onto the rebar. Use the big ones.
The more cushion the better, right.
Spraypaint marshmellows to match fairing and cock around them with
bubblegum. (adds flexability)
Good luck. The extra time will pay off big time....
StreetnTrack
Donating Member
we sale a lot of the no cut frame sliders that work great.
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