Fuel filter mod

[chrisjp]

i used some silicone spray to make it easier to slide the clips into the hose. using the clamps behind the green gasket clamp down tight the FI hose to the clips and then to the filter ...filter ...to the second clip...naturally measure to where you want to place the filter. i also realized i didnt want the clamps rubbing so i wrapped them with electrical tape also

 

[chrisjp]

i checked movement of tank up and down so it was not hitting filter and hoses kinking. then i zip tied to the harness. this is looking from the left side of the bike in.

 

[chrisjp]

reconnect your pump electrical connection, the anti tip sensor plug. then pressurize and check for leaks...go for a ride!!!

 

[E Zurcher]

Like your application of KISS Keep It Simple Stupid! Great job!

Once the hole is drilled, giving the filter a good backflush should remove any sediments.

I would only worry about heat soak and vapor lock and am curious to see if anyone has any problems. I guess using longer fuel lines and locating the filter somewhere away from the heat would help if that happens.

Please know there are differences in the in-tank filters where the pressure regulators are installed but the basic concept should work all the way through Gen 2 bikes.

Having taken mine apart and seeing how small the filter medium is in the stock filter, I bet there is a performance advantage to be gained with a larger filter on flow alone.

Great job.

 

[stunva]

I completed this mod on a K1 this morning, It took roughly 3 hours including driving to the shops to get the gear.

Suzuki wanted $418 for the parts and with this mod it cost me a total of $26.

Realestate is pretty slim under the tank since the bike is a streetfighter and most of the wiring ends up under there but I found room for the filter on the RH side.

I took it for a quick test ride and it appears to be much stronger with no hesitation from 7.5krpm up to... well I stopped watching the tacho from there and concentrated on hanging on, being a naked it gets interesting up there.

Thank you very much for posting this tutorial it's saved me hundreds of dollars and if it continues to go as it did this morning it will continue to keep me happy and sane too, thanks a heap.

 

[chrisjp]

remember if you drilled... you will get gunk from old filter eventually working its way out and will collect in the on line filter...suggest change after 5k or so miles... especially if you didnt back flush it...

 

[stunva]

I'll just replace the fuel filter every time I service which is usually about every 5,000ks.

 

[BigBadDodge]

Figured i'd give chris a bump and verify THIS DOES WORK ON 2ND GENS ALSO!!

I did a big intank conversion on my 08 and kept blowing the bushing out, was on the verge of parking the bike till i could afford to do a good external system when i came across this, figured what did i have to loose! Even after backflushing the filter twice after drilling the hole and being able to see a small amount of the filter(gen 2's have a white housing) The 39k mile filter just looked horrid, Now the bike pulls good and clean straight through the second rail coming in and so far no more fuel pump bushing issues!! I Mounted my filter slightly further inboard as i have a little more room thanks to the low profile breather cover other than that follow his write up and you'll be spot on the money!!

My total cost was $18.43 as the guy at the parts store couldnt figure out how to ring up the injection hose so he just charged me for 3ft of regular fuel line! You only need 2 feet for this mod!

 

[FILT166]

Marked for later

 

[cipher5791]

 

[glenn71]

[/QUOTE
I did this mod in 2008,and have done it quite a few times since.a couple of things though.You need to flush out the filter body extremely well or the slightest bit
of plastic swarf can get under the seat of the pressure regulator and cause it to leak and not seal properly and your fuel pressure control wont be very good,upsetting the fuelling of the bike.Secondly I drilled the filterhole where the pump outlet pushes into the filter as that is still a point of restriction.I use a sintered metal inline filter which is quite short and fit the fuel rail t in between cylinders 2 and 3 for a better arc for the fuel hose with the tees outlet facing the right hand side of the bike.Finally a cable tie
around the filter and pressure regulator is cheap insurance for the reg not blowing off.Measured at 43psi,i went from 1.1L/min to 1.6L/min fuel flow rate doing this mod which is about 70hp more fuel flow,1.1L/min signs off around 185hp at the tyre on a tight dyno.

 

[Aruba_Busa]

Just did this mod after having issues for about 4 months , it was pretty easy to do , and the instructions are perfect , Great write up

 

[Kevin Jones]

I would go so far as to say that this mod or a similar mod bypassing that POS filter in the tank is a necessity. Everyone with a gen 1 should do it. How many % of people put a post up here talking about problems that are absolutely the filter? Ethanol and sorry ass gas will collect in the reservoir and you cannot get it out. Terrible design but good idea for Suzuki service techs down the road. I learned the woes of ethanol by boat carbs. It sits in the bottom of the bowl and clogs up the needle and seat and no gas can get in to the float. Boat shops take people to the cleaners from ethanol.

 

[icemansid]

KJ - i would agree that ethanol can gum up float bowls, especially in something that sits for months on end... but ethanol is no bad and its not bad for your bike. People need to know the truth about ethanol...

sorry i needed to get that out. hate to see E bashing..

 

[mikbusa]

Oh hell yeah! I just did this mod, had higher RPM stumbling, and following these instructions, the monster is back! Laid rubber and wheelied at 1/2 throttle within the first 5 minutes.
This was weird, because the inside of the tank was SPOTLESS! No crud to clean out at all, but it was dying at high rpm.

Thank you for doing this writeup! You saved me from buying a $400 CDN fuel filter. And if it clogs on the road, any parts store will have something that works.

 

[Blackmax]

Oh hell yeah! I just did this mod, had higher RPM stumbling, and following these instructions, the monster is back! Laid rubber and wheelied at 1/2 throttle within the first 5 minutes.
This was weird, because the inside of the tank was SPOTLESS! No crud to clean out at all, but it was dying at high rpm.

Thank you for doing this writeup! You saved me from buying a $400 CDN fuel filter. And if it clogs on the road, any parts store will have something that works.

Did mine a few years back had all the same issues . I also added a AEM320L pump

 

[noelcvn]

lease: oh god I hope this is the issue with my busa, every time I crank it up it sputters to run , then at 0- 45mph cruising it bogs a second then surges , when at higher speeds flattens rpm curve "strange my old LTD busa never did that , thinking it could and hopefully could be remedied with this modification.

 

[McGlinn]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the idea and walkthrough!

I have had same issue now third time (well sort of).
First time was a pain to diagnose, ended up replacing the whole fuel pump assembly including filter with a second hand one (not the best idea) but as it fixed the issue I was just happy to be back in business so left it at that.
Second time I needed a quick fix and backflushed filter - only temporary I know.

Time now for a real solution.

Considering I have a second whole assembly I will hunt for a second original fuel line (would like to be able to go back to stock without effort or ride while I work on this if not enough time to complete in one go) and try your method above it sounds good and I have nothing to lose if done right.

Quick questions to save me pain:

1) How do you pick an appropriate Fuel filter? My local shop has so many its confusing.
Should I just get the biggest inline that would fit easy enough?
I mean I dont want it to be too restrictive nor allow to much gunk through.

2) What gauge/thickness FI hose did you use at least for the connectors to the plugs in the original fuel hose?

I will give it a go.


Other thoughts are;

1) Technically is the current filtration done prior to the pressure regulator in the filter assembly?
Is it smart to then put a filter that will create some restriction after that in the new setup? (nothing to lose compared to now when it is making my bike run crap anyway)

 

[PADEROLIS]

I wish I had seen this last week!! I had my fuel pump assembly out about three times trying to solve a hot starting issue! I will definitely look into this procedure! Thanks for the detailed write up!!!

 

[chrisjp]

now that i have acquired (mystery package lol) a gen 2 used filter housing...i now can REPLACE what i did the first time arround by splitting the assembly and simply do the drill method...so now i get the fun of figuring out if i can put a gen2 filter housing on a gen 1 pump assembly...