Gen 1 Busa on a Diet...

[Busashot]

It depends on material. Carbon fiber being lightest then forged Magnesium and the Aluminum.
I think I lost around 10 with my Marchesinis? I'll have to look it up.
If you want to search look for 'Blanca's new shoes'. I think that was thread title?

With the Carrozzerias, I lost exactly 9lbs 7oz when comparing a complete wheel setup to a complete stock wheel setup. From I remember is the Marchesinis were not as much. At least what we saw when we did several wheel comparisons a few years back.

 

[superchargedv8]

for sure get the ballistic battery....i got one and its super light compared to the said one i took out.

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

1K swap will help. For the amount of money you will be spending. Look for an aluminum subframe.

That's Wat I was wanting to do. I got a homboy here with 600rr and has a 1000rr with aluminum race subframe spanking ass down here

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

On my 2006 I have removed 60lbs without making it look like it. Well except for my Carrozzeria wheels. I could lose another 10-15lbs if I want to lose some essential street stuff and spend a lot more money.

Do u mind sharing?
Thanks

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

for sure get the ballistic battery....i got one and its super light compared to the said one i took out.

Yea that for sure gunna happen...

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

I really wanna get wheels...I absolutely hate the 3bar design of the busa! I'm spoiled from my old R1:-/

 

[Busashot]

Consider a stock Gen I Busa 01-07 weighs roughly 555lbs fully loaded and full of fluids.

All of these #'s depends on brand/manufacturer and material used:

Wheels - 7-15lbs loss
Full Titanium Exhaust - 21-23lbs loss
Battery - 5-6lbs loss
Aluminum Subframe with grab bar removed - 5-6lbs

That is about the major weight loss. Here are some of the smaller items but enough of them done it then all adds up.

Bar ends
Foot pegs and weights
Aluminum rear sprocket
Aftermarket front and rear brake rotors
Titanium brake rotor bolts and sprocket nuts
Remove all relectors and brackets

That's a good start

 

[Big E]

I really wanna get wheels...I absolutely hate the 3bar design of the busa! I'm spoiled from my old R1:-/

Why not put R1 wheels on the Busa?

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

Consider a stock Gen I Busa 01-07 weighs roughly 555lbs fully loaded and full of fluids.

All of these #'s depends on brand/manufacturer and material used:

Wheels - 7-15lbs loss
Full Titanium Exhaust - 21-23lbs loss
Battery - 5-6lbs loss
Aluminum Subframe with grab bar removed - 5-6lbs

That is about the major weight loss. Here are some of the smaller items but enough of them done it then all adds up.

Bar ends
Foot pegs and weights
Aluminum rear sprocket
Aftermarket front and rear brake rotors
Titanium brake rotor bolts and sprocket nuts
Remove all relectors and brackets

That's a good start

The bar ends I heard are good for the handlebar vibrations?
I took off the foot peg weights already!
I'm going to get the supersprox
Galfer or Braking?
I have Driven sprocket nuts already(Forgot to mention that)

 

[Busashot]

I use Braketech Axis rotors in the front. A true Full Floating rotor. In the rear a Galfer rotor. Trust me on this. Don't go Galfer on the fronts. Go Braking or Braketech for good braking enhancements as well as weight loss.

As far as vibrations, I replaced the stock grips for some mild Gel filled grips. I also make sure I am using good gloves as well. I can ride for hours without any issues. I use aluminum bar-ends but you can go even lighter with other materials.

Keep in mind with all the weight loss I have gotten, it includes the weight that was added right back to the bike. ie; accessories, heavier aftermarket parts than stock, etc.

 

[fallenarch]

Wheels will make a big diff in how it handles and help lose about 10-15lbs depending on which set or material you get.

That's 10-15 power pounds too. That is both rotating mass and unsprung weight.

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

I use Braketech Axis rotors in the front. A true Full Floating rotor. In the rear a Galfer rotor. Trust me on this. Don't go Galfer on the fronts. Go Braking or Braketech for good braking enhancements as well as weight loss.

As far as vibrations, I replaced the stock grips for some mild Gel filled grips. I also make sure I am using good gloves as well. I can ride for hours without any issues. I use aluminum bar-ends but you can go even lighter with other materials.

Keep in mind with all the weight loss I have gotten, it includes the weight that was added right back to the bike. ie; accessories, heavier aftermarket parts than stock, etc.

Good stuff! I will go BRAKING forsure! Motomummy has a special going on with them right now.

I'll look for some lighter bar ends...my OEM look like **** either way.

Thanks again for all the great info!

 

[Busashot]

With my wheels, ceramic wheel bearings, rotors, titanium rotor bolts/nuts, aluminum sprockets and light Michelin Pilot Powers, the bike flicks like a litre bike. My friend who has a ZX14 just got some BSTs with ceramic bearings and he says mine still moves around better than his bike.

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

With my wheels, ceramic wheel bearings, rotors, titanium rotor bolts/nuts, aluminum sprockets and light Michelin Pilot Powers, the bike flicks like a litre bike. My friend who has a ZX14 just got some BSTs with ceramic bearings and he says mine still moves around better than his bike.

I'm down with the titanium and aluminum stuff but aren't the ceramic bearings like $300? Well worth it I'm assuming?

I pulled the trigger on the Shinko's 003 already:-/ I'm not big on going into curves anyways

I love the BSTs but I can probably do some OZ or CZ with ceramic bearings...

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

Did u use Brock's ceramic bearings or other brand?

 

[Busashot]

There are two sources for the bearings in which the most common one is WorldWideBearings. Brock uses them unless that has changed lately. When you run out of things to do to your motorcycle and want to spend more money, wheels and bearings usually should be the last thing to do. With the bearings you will notice the bike is easy to move around the driveway or garage floor. As far performance, like the wheels, most performance gains are most noticeable at extreme speeds. In the case of the BSTs with Ceramics, since they are super light and pretty much has the best MOI will net gains in the ET/MPH dept of the 1/4 mile. How much depends on how consistent you are to actually see the gains.

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

There are two sources for the bearings in which the most common one is WorldWideBearings. Brock uses them unless that has changed lately. When you run out of things to do to your motorcycle and want to spend more money, wheels and bearings usually should be the last thing to do. With the bearings you will notice the bike is easy to move around the driveway or garage floor. As far performance, like the wheels, most performance gains are most noticeable at extreme speeds. In the case of the BSTs with Ceramics, since they are super light and pretty much has the best MOI will net gains in the ET/MPH dept of the 1/4 mile. How much depends on how consistent you are to actually see the gains.

Would you do engine work first like a carpenter engine or wheels first?

 

[Busashot]

I'd do head, cams and compression. The least expensive route but nets good results except nitrous oxide of course. You can still achieve 190hp+ w/o big bore. The most reliable setup IMHO as long as you don't go crazy on cam size.

 

[Eddy Castellanos Aymat]

I'd do head, cams and compression. The least expensive route but nets good results except nitrous oxide of course. You can still achieve 190hp+ w/o big bore. The most reliable setup IMHO as long as you don't go crazy on cam size.

Ok so do the engine work first then hit up wheels etc

 

[black diamond busa]

How long have you had your busa?