Gen 1 CCT replacement

@ all

what i forgot is the fact that every spring loses power/force over the years / dekades.
a ´99 busa cct spring today is 21 years old :shocked:

so i guess it would be a good idea to replace this spring by new
no matter how far the cct is "in".

the spring got a bit weaker.

15 minutes and 5 bucks for the spring should bomb my possibilities.

i personally will do this at my ´00 busa next days.
 
Spring came in. I had no recollection of this post or doing this before! LMAO
New on right by the seat bolt.
1000003150.jpg

Removed back bolt, which was under a good bit of tension. Removed spring, oiled new spring, put in small metal rod from old spring, put spring in bolt, put spring around whatever is in the hole, and tightened bolt back down. Took a good bit of force to push bolt/spring back in...easily 8-12lbs.
 
Clicking/tapping sound has changed slightly, and now sounds more like a loose metallic rattle. Coming from top back of engine--maybe injectors?? Have I just been dumb this whole time? :withstupid:

Idle set to just over 1k and noise is consistently 2-3 times per second. Engine is too loud over 2k RPM to distinguish it. Noise is present regardless of engine temp or time spent running.
 
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This has been going on a while, but it is getting more noticeable at startup and I don't like it! Loud "ticking/clicking" sound in upper right side of engine, directly below the airbox. You can physically feel the clicking by pushing your finger on little...wheel? for the throttle cable and idle adjustment.
Pretty sure the cam chain tensioner is a good place to start since I don't want to open the valve cover if I don't have to :p

I found two listings for what is supposed to be a "recall" model, but both have different part numbers and no spot for the oil line :crazy: seems sketch that a factory upgrade for a known problem would remove that...
99103-11147
1283X-24F00


I'd prefer not to spend $70+ on a manual tensioner unless I have too...I don't mind upgrading stock parts, but the engine is staying stock.
Any thoughts? NOS SUZUKI 1999-2003 CAM CHAIN TENSIONER HAYABUSA GSXR 1300 PART# 1283X-24F00 | eBay
Let me look i may have a brand new one complete tensioner for sale. Ill check at my shop later today!
 
Have you verifi
Clicking/tapping sound has changed slightly, and now sounds more like a loose metallic rattle. Coming from top back of engine--maybe injectors?? Have I just been dumb this whole time? :withstupid:

Idle set to just over 1k and noise is consistently 2-3 times per second. Engine is too loud over 2k RPM to distinguish it. Noise is present regardless of engine temp or time spent running.
Have you verified the timing marks, when you have had the tensioner out. with the valve cover off?
 
Let me look i may have a brand new one complete tensioner for sale. Ill check at my shop later today!
Thanks, I replaced the spring and it seemed to help, but there is still a consistent noise and I'm not positive what it is from. That throaty raspy sound is now gone tho! (see revived post: Akrapovic to quiet, what can be done? | General Bike Related Topics )

The most I've pulled off of the top has been the airbox...never touched the valve cover. I took off the oil line to the CCT and replaced the spring, but that's it as far as timing goes. I don't wanna dive that deep into the engine unless I absolutely have to, especially if the valve cover gasket isn't leaking LOL
 
Thanks, I replaced the spring and it seemed to help, but there is still a consistent noise and I'm not positive what it is from. That throaty raspy sound is now gone tho! (see revived post: Akrapovic to quiet, what can be done? | General Bike Related Topics )

The most I've pulled off of the top has been the airbox...never touched the valve cover. I took off the oil line to the CCT and replaced the spring, but that's it as far as timing goes. I don't wanna dive that deep into the engine unless I absolutely have to, especially if the valve cover gasket isn't leaking LOL
When you swapped the spring was the motor at top dead center?
If not, if the tensioner is bad, and the ratcheting mechanism is bad it could have jumped timing
 
When you swapped the spring was the motor at top dead center?
If not, if the tensioner is bad, and the ratcheting mechanism is bad it could have jumped timing
Absolutely no clue. I originally pulled out the spring, stretched it, and put it back in. I replaced it with OEM this time, which was much stiffer.
The only method I am aware of requires you to see the gears on the cams, and again, I've never seen more into the engine than spark plugs and exhaust header holes.
Could timing be off? I guess...but she's idling normal, survived two rev bombs, and up to 7k RPM in 2nd and 3rd gear. If timing was off, I figured it would have jumped before I replaced the spring because that sucker was trying to spit the bolt back out when I put the new one in.

Even if I replaced the entire CCT, I'm sure I would need to replace the timing chain and guards. If the ratcheting piece is on it's last tooth then switching it out wouldn't change anything.
 
Absolutely no clue. I originally pulled out the spring, stretched it, and put it back in. I replaced it with OEM this time, which was much stiffer.
The only method I am aware of requires you to see the gears on the cams, and again, I've never seen more into the engine than spark plugs and exhaust header holes.
Could timing be off? I guess...but she's idling normal, survived two rev bombs, and up to 7k RPM in 2nd and 3rd gear. If timing was off, I figured it would have jumped before I replaced the spring because that sucker was trying to spit the bolt back out when I put the new one in.

Even if I replaced the entire CCT, I'm sure I would need to replace the timing chain and guards. If the ratcheting piece is on it's last tooth then switching it out wouldn't change anything.
mileage?
 
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