Gen 2 stage 1 turbo bike
- Thread starter busakiller
- Start date
ali123
Banned
its gotta be nerve wracking having to give instructions to THE TUNER.
I’d check/change your plugs before you go back to make sure there’s no speckling on the porcelain.
That would be aluminum that has transferred from the top of the piston on to the spark plug not a good thing !
shade
Registered
Ah Frank your FOS it really means lean it out more and add boost. I knew I could teach you something.
Yep!
The bad thing is, the tips on the “go to” CR9E plug will melt at a higher temp then an aluminum piston does. So when you actually do see speckling on one of those plugs and haven’t fully melted a piston yet, you know it was extremely close to doing so.
That’s why silver plugs are a good investment.
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In the old days, that is how you would "tune" a two stroke - keep leaning out the main jet until the piston melted, repair the top end and go back up one jet size . . .
Hahahahaha ha ha!!!
That back in the day when you could use soup cans for pistons I hear. Lol
busakiller
Registered
So what kind of plugs do you guys recommend using?
The good ole NGK CR9E is good for most guys, and most applications.
However I do like to use Brisk plugs on many occasions. They’re double the price of the ngk’s, they last only a few thousand miles, and have absolutely zero gain in performance. Reason being NGK plugs electrodes are made from nickel vs a Brisk’s electrode being made of silver.
Why is that significant? Science. On gasoline engines, once exhaust gas temps get in the ballpark of 1800 degrees, the pistons start to melt. 1600 degrees is considered the upper limit of safe for gasoline engines typically.
With that being said, nickel melts at 2600 degrees, while silver at 1700 degrees. The brisk plugs are sold as “racing spark plugs”. They are designed to fail before serious engine damage occurs by the way of the ground electrode melting off.
I always use them on LSR bikes, non innercooled drag bikes, anything spraying nitrous or using an aggressive tune up.
So when the tip melts, you’ll get bad miss because that cylinder doesn’t have spark. Take it back to the pits, find the burnt plug and check it for speckeling. Appreciate the thousands of dollars it saved you, jam a new plug in, And then check the data to see why it ate a plug.
However I do like to use Brisk plugs on many occasions. They’re double the price of the ngk’s, they last only a few thousand miles, and have absolutely zero gain in performance. Reason being NGK plugs electrodes are made from nickel vs a Brisk’s electrode being made of silver.
Why is that significant? Science. On gasoline engines, once exhaust gas temps get in the ballpark of 1800 degrees, the pistons start to melt. 1600 degrees is considered the upper limit of safe for gasoline engines typically.
With that being said, nickel melts at 2600 degrees, while silver at 1700 degrees. The brisk plugs are sold as “racing spark plugs”. They are designed to fail before serious engine damage occurs by the way of the ground electrode melting off.
I always use them on LSR bikes, non innercooled drag bikes, anything spraying nitrous or using an aggressive tune up.
So when the tip melts, you’ll get bad miss because that cylinder doesn’t have spark. Take it back to the pits, find the burnt plug and check it for speckeling. Appreciate the thousands of dollars it saved you, jam a new plug in, And then check the data to see why it ate a plug.
ali123
Banned
unbelievable info here... also... silver is a better electrical conductor than nickel...
Stock plugs, gapped tight, good tune, no issues . . .
Overall I agree with you on this. But in a competitive race class tuning conservatively usually goes out the window. Winning is more important then engine longevity for most guys at that level of racing.
I’m the instance of my grudge racing customs that don’t run innercoolers, or even cooling systems for weight savings the brisk plugs are a great option, and have saved many engines.
busakiller
Registered
Little update. I bought a new wide band senor and now the afr gauge is working again. I also tossed in a brand new clutch in the bike before the trave this weekend. First pass off the trailer I ran 9.2 and the second pass was a 9.1 and the final pass was a 8.9. It was a busy day at the track and had a friend with so I was tryin help him get his bike dialed in. I was not happy about the trap speed. But the bike ran great and did alright. Bike is running about 7-8 psi right now and the afr looks to be pretty good. Going to try getting it on the dyno this week to see where the powers at. See if I have some room to turn in it up.
busakiller
Registered
Heres my time slip. Yes I know the 60 foot is not great. But first time at the track with this bike and it's different then my drag bike. This bike does trap about 2 mph more in the 1/8 then my all motor drag bike. I do need to play with the gearing on the bike as I was at the top of 4th going thru the trap. Some times I was on the limiter. Gearing is 18 45 with a 190 50 hook up
busakiller
Registered
Well I finally got to weigh my bike at the track this weekend. Bike weighs 550 pounds and 740 with me on it. Kinda dissapointed in the bike. I know it's heavy but it's slow. Doesn't trap any more then my other bike that's a 1397 on 110 pump fuel. The bike is different to launch compared to the all motor bike.
ali123
Banned
I really feel like for a few hundred bucks for shipping... (I don't know where u are) A GREAT tune would transform the bike... along with peace of mind and a working relationship with a turbo guru... frank or rob... whoever is closer cold make the bike better.... guaranteed
busakiller
Registered
I totally agree. That's my plan is to have one of them build the motor and retune it. Just need to finish wedding stuff and after that I will feel comfortable to dump money into the bike.
ali123
Banned
even if its just a tune... ull love it.... the problem with huge builds are they take time/planning... and frank gets very busy....
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