Robert 0046
Registered
Let us know how how you set your suspension and for what kind of use street, track, daily drive roll race, drag race.
Gen 3 suspension adjustments
- Thread starter Robert 0046
- Start date
You need to set the suspension sag.
Measure and see if you can get 35-40mm for the street.
If you're much over 200lbs in gear, you'll most likely need new fork springs.
Measure and see if you can get 35-40mm for the street.
If you're much over 200lbs in gear, you'll most likely need new fork springs.
To be honest, it's 2022 and we are discussing adjusting the suspension? Maybe on a race bike, I can see this because all riders have their own "best setup". But touring bikes have a lot of general suspension setup changes needed. One for one-up, one for two-up, luggage, or sporty riding. A $22K bike should have active suspension.
Adaptive suspension like on an R1M or Panigale is a ways off from daily rider bikes...and would really up the price.
In the meantime, the sag still needs set and springs may need changed, otherwise it'll never handle right.
Proper or best setup of the stock suspension should be the first thing done to Any new bike with adjustable suspension. Anyone that knows suspension(yourself included)knows that.
Anyone that doesn't needs to learn it.
As a couple clicks can noticeably change the handling. There is some preference, but correct sag for rider weight is the most important thing you can do(along with tire psi and good brakes).
After you understand it, then you can adjust for road conditions or luggage or passenger weight.
If you're basically a solo rider, then the preload can be measured, set, road tested, finely adjusted, and basically left alone. The compression and rebound can dial in the rest, and be easily roadside tuned.
And as for adaptive suspension, it's still relatively new. What happens when it fails? Will it just freeze at it's last setting?
Will it lock the suspension internally?
I'm getting really close to buying a gen3, and the cost is alot more than I had planned. No, I'm not complaining, but adaptive suspension would've made it what? $25k?
Cool as it sounds to have, I'm not ready to pay that just for the bike. As we know mods will easily push the gen3 there and beyond.
Pipe, flash, stacks, filter, dyno are in the plan. BST's will add $5k.
I'de rather have those and adjust my own suspension.
My BMW 1250 has auto suspension. It is not "adaptive" meaning it does not constantly adjust. It can sense sag though and set the suspension to a proper setting based on load, off-road, etc. Bike goes for $23ish
Adaptive suspension like on an R1M or Panigale is a ways off from daily rider bikes...and would really up the price.
In the meantime, the sag still needs set and springs may need changed, otherwise it'll never handle right.
Proper or best setup of the stock suspension should be the first thing done to Any new bike with adjustable suspension. Anyone that knows suspension(yourself included)knows that.
Anyone that doesn't needs to learn it.
As a couple clicks can noticeably change the handling. There is some preference, but correct sag for rider weight is the most important thing you can do(along with tire psi and good brakes).
After you understand it, then you can adjust for road conditions or luggage or passenger weight.
If you're basically a solo rider, then the preload can be measured, set, road tested, finely adjusted, and basically left alone. The compression and rebound can dial in the rest, and be easily roadside tuned.
And as for adaptive suspension, it's still relatively new. What happens when it fails? Will it just freeze at it's last setting?
Will it lock the suspension internally?
I'm getting really close to buying a gen3, and the cost is alot more than I had planned. No, I'm not complaining, but adaptive suspension would've made it what? $25k?
Cool as it sounds to have, I'm not ready to pay that just for the bike. As we know mods will easily push the gen3 there and beyond.
Pipe, flash, stacks, filter, dyno are in the plan. BST's will add $5k.
I'de rather have those and adjust my own suspension.
I test rode their S1000S
It has electronic suspension too, but not adaptive or adjustable, just 2 settings.
Super bouncy soft, and firm.
The firm started out good, but once I got into some good curves, game over, it was useless.
I'm going to swap bikes with a co-worker once it warms up and try out his V4 Panigale. I have no interest in buying one, but do want to see how the suspension is.
The gsxr has the remote resivoir shocks like the gen3 got, and I've been really happy with those.
I'll stick to turning knobs for now.
I hated but later fell in love with the Quick Shifter...last thing I need is to get spoiled on Adaptive suspension.
I don't know why that reposted either
Well not my experience or consistent with reviews.Hard to believe we disagree? Haha
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It does that sometimes...I've had to clear an old post a couple times lately....
Yep, read a couple comments about that lately, lol, but, no big deal...if that's the worst glitch we have that's great.
I’m looking for the $22k bike
I can't wait for someone to take apart a 2022 fork and look at that piston design. Wonder how much they have changed it from the Gen2.
Personally I think it's criminal that dealerships sell bikes without setting the sag for the buyer. Wrong sag numbers and incorrect spring rates for the rider puts the riders and others at risk during accelerated conditions and emergency maneuvering. I would force them by law to do a proper setup.
Personally I think it's criminal that dealerships sell bikes without setting the sag for the buyer. Wrong sag numbers and incorrect spring rates for the rider puts the riders and others at risk during accelerated conditions and emergency maneuvering. I would force them by law to do a proper setup.
I haven't opened a new style fork, but have read through the gsxr1k service manual about them.
It's basically the same...only different, lol.
What bothers me is the cost of tools, but I'll have to get them eventually.
Back in 09 the gsxr1k got the newest fork tech, with the compression and rebound adjusters both on the top.
I quickly found out that after removing the cap, in order to access the spring, you need a 'rod guide case wrench'...which was $259 through Suzuki, and nowhere to be found elsewhere(not to mention a few other new tools).
I never looked for them since(had traditional forks on all the bike since until the gsxr), and my friend had the dealer do his fork seals instead, as he needed it done quicker than I could get the tools here anyway.
I would hope by now with the new remote resivoir shocks 5 years or so on the market, that Motion-Pro or somewhere offers fork service tools for them.
I'll get the gen3, then order what I know I'll need, the gsxr will probably need them before anyway.
Yay...gotta love the expense of new technology.
Totally agree but most dealers don't even have a qualified suspension specialist. It would be a huge expense to get one. Also, most riders never even think about the suspension, they hop on the bike and just accept it as it is. To be honest, only the premium sports/dirt bikes even had suspension worth adjusting until recently. But spend a few months on Ohlins and you really start to get how important suspension is.
My bike doesn't have Ohlins but it handles like it's on rails even for a cobbled together suspension upgrade.
Cruising180
Registered
I know this is an old post but I don't have an owners manual for my Gen 3 yet. What is the socket size for the front preload adjusters?
SS4Luck
Registered
Idk of the top of my head but it's a common one because I didn't have to go buy one when I set mine. 22mm? Maybe 20?
Cruising180
Registered
It ended up being a 14mm which surprised me. My FZ-10 was a 16mm iirc. With the Helibar riser on there I couldn't get a good look at it so I just assumed it was bigger than the sockets I was trying.
Anyway I added one full turn of perload and two clicks of rebound. I may add another half turn of preload and see how that feels. I used Motojitsu's youtube video to set the front preload. I rode to work this morning and didn't even think about the front end until I got to work. which means I'm in the ballpark. So I'm a bigger guy, 6'3" 240lbs. According the RaceTech's website I'm just about within the weight rage for the rear spring. The front stock spring rate is 0.91kg/mm and they are recommending a 1.27kg/mm to1.31kg/mm. I understand what that ratio means but not exactly how big of a difference there really is between a 0.91 to a 1.27 for example. I'm not a drag racer and I do run the twisties about every weekend.
I used to ride my 2002 Blackbird in ways that made the guys on 954RR's and the like surprised that bike could do that. I may do the odd track day in the future but not likely.
Anyway I added one full turn of perload and two clicks of rebound. I may add another half turn of preload and see how that feels. I used Motojitsu's youtube video to set the front preload. I rode to work this morning and didn't even think about the front end until I got to work. which means I'm in the ballpark. So I'm a bigger guy, 6'3" 240lbs. According the RaceTech's website I'm just about within the weight rage for the rear spring. The front stock spring rate is 0.91kg/mm and they are recommending a 1.27kg/mm to1.31kg/mm. I understand what that ratio means but not exactly how big of a difference there really is between a 0.91 to a 1.27 for example. I'm not a drag racer and I do run the twisties about every weekend.
I used to ride my 2002 Blackbird in ways that made the guys on 954RR's and the like surprised that bike could do that. I may do the odd track day in the future but not likely.
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