Gen2 charging issues still
- Thread starter ky busa
- Start date
First and foremost . . . check ALL terminal connections to the battery power side and the ground side. Look for corrosion and/or loose connections.
If it all checks out OK, next step is . . . .
I strongly suspect you have a faulty battery or a parasitic current drain.
If you are 100% certain the stator output is healthy and regulator/rectifier is also good, next step is . . . . .
Here's a test you can do, it's a parasitic current draw test.
1) Set your digital multi-meter to DC Amps,
2) disconnect the ground terminal from your battery,
3) connect the positive (+) multi-meter terminal to the battery ground cable terminal,
4) then connect the negative (-) multi-meter terminal to the ground terminal on the battery,
5) look at the multi-meter display (digital multi-meter)
6) if it is drawing more than 50milliamps (.05 Amps) there is an unacceptable drain on the battery from some device in the system.
Have a look at this vid . . . .
If it all checks out OK, next step is . . . .
I strongly suspect you have a faulty battery or a parasitic current drain.
If you are 100% certain the stator output is healthy and regulator/rectifier is also good, next step is . . . . .
Here's a test you can do, it's a parasitic current draw test.
1) Set your digital multi-meter to DC Amps,
2) disconnect the ground terminal from your battery,
3) connect the positive (+) multi-meter terminal to the battery ground cable terminal,
4) then connect the negative (-) multi-meter terminal to the ground terminal on the battery,
5) look at the multi-meter display (digital multi-meter)
6) if it is drawing more than 50milliamps (.05 Amps) there is an unacceptable drain on the battery from some device in the system.
Have a look at this vid . . . .
Last edited:
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
You need to continue a single thread for the same problem. If you open a new thread every time you run a test the others here will not know the history and that will cause misdirection.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/gen2-charging-system-problem.194998/#post-3249171
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/charging-issues.195002/
What was the fuel pump problem and solution? That is a high current device and could be related to this issue.
Electrical tests must be done cold and hot and be within specification on both. The reason is that short circuits or open circuits can develop when hot then "heal" when cool.
You did not mention your stator tests:
0.2-0.7 Ω (B-B)
∞ (infinity) (B-ground)
at 5,000 RPM = 70 volts AC (3 measurements) between each phase (B-B in the manual)
The manual spec for Kiwi's battery current leakage or short-circuit test is 3 mA or .003 A.
Also start this test with the meter on the highest setting, aka 20 AMPS or 2 AMPS, then once connected move the dial to greater sensitivities. If the current is higher than the set meter range it will blow the ammeter circuit.
To Kiwii's point about batteries, I got a battery from one of those auto parts stores and the cables would not quite tighten correctly due to the incorrect terminal configuration. If the terminal configuration is incorrect for the bike (90° off, or square versus round) the store should accept a return.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/gen2-charging-system-problem.194998/#post-3249171
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/charging-issues.195002/
What was the fuel pump problem and solution? That is a high current device and could be related to this issue.
Electrical tests must be done cold and hot and be within specification on both. The reason is that short circuits or open circuits can develop when hot then "heal" when cool.
You did not mention your stator tests:
0.2-0.7 Ω (B-B)
∞ (infinity) (B-ground)
at 5,000 RPM = 70 volts AC (3 measurements) between each phase (B-B in the manual)
The manual spec for Kiwi's battery current leakage or short-circuit test is 3 mA or .003 A.
Also start this test with the meter on the highest setting, aka 20 AMPS or 2 AMPS, then once connected move the dial to greater sensitivities. If the current is higher than the set meter range it will blow the ammeter circuit.To Kiwii's point about batteries, I got a battery from one of those auto parts stores and the cables would not quite tighten correctly due to the incorrect terminal configuration. If the terminal configuration is incorrect for the bike (90° off, or square versus round) the store should accept a return.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
You also must do Kiwi's drain test or risk burning out the new equipment on your first ride. When the new parts are in place then perform the idle and 5,000 rpm voltage tests on the battery. Only testing and verifying will tell you if you are at risk of getting stranded again.
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