generation 2 dyno numbers

[07busa07]

I have pcIII/bmc street filter/tiforce dual exhaust/unrestricted/ignition mod/pair valve disabled/rev limiter to 11,800/o2 sensor disabled/+2 rear sprocket/-1 front (at the time)/stretched 10.5"/tre mod through ecu/ram air edited and I pulled 185.84 hp and 111.72 torque on das auto dyno with 93 pump gas

 

[Johnnycheese]

194.2/116.1 89 pump gas in 100 degree heat all ECU

 

[07busa07]

194.2/116.1 89 pump gas in 100 degree heat all ECU

194? How'd u pull that? Any secrets? Haha I thought I'd get little more out of mine but I'm sure 10.5" stretch took some away

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

Got Busa please provide proof the K&N hurt him and is actually worse than oem.
That's one of if not the oldest RUMORS out there still yet to be proven.
I'm sure if it were true they'd still be in business right? I've seen that repeated here many many times and nobody has ever provided proof a K&N is worse than oem. Simply isn't true.


And to the op. get rid of the xtre. It is adding ZERO Hp to your bike and is killing your mpgs.
I've been there and done that. Got before and after dyno runs with and without xtre as well as four month long mpg test.
The only thing the xtre is accomplishing is removing top speed limiter which can be done by flashing the ecu.

 

[Got-Busa?]

Got Busa please provide proof the K&N hurt him and is actually worse than oem.
That's one of if not the oldest RUMORS out there still yet to be proven.
I'm sure if it were true they'd still be in business right? I've seen that repeated here many many times and nobody has ever provided proof a K&N is worse than oem. Simply isn't true.


And to the op. get rid of the xtre. It is adding ZERO Hp to your bike and is killing your mpgs.
I've been there and done that. Got before and after dyno runs with and without xtre as well as four month long mpg test.
The only thing the xtre is accomplishing is removing top speed limiter which can be done by flashing the ecu.

It's been proven many times and also depends if you have the Race or regular replacement filter on many brands like Pipercrosse, BMC, etc..not just K&N.

It doesn't have anything to do with them and business. K&N is a filter than can be cleaned and recharged (as they like to say) when it's dirty. You can't do that with OEM so that is K&N's claim to fame, some vehicles you do get a hp increase but depending on bike/conditions, etc..the Hayabusa isn't one of them. They also can cause mass air meters to fail and have rough idle issues to but that again depends on the make/model and application..

I've also seen people claim 5hp increase with a K&N but have yet to see anyone post anywhere near those gains.

For the cost, you are better off getting all short stacks for the airbox over a K&N if you want peak power gains...

 

[stangman327]

It's been proven many times and also depends if you have the Race or regular replacement filter on many brands like Pipercrosse, BMC, etc..not just K&N.

It doesn't have anything to do with them and business. K&N is a filter than can be cleaned and recharged (as they like to say) when it's dirty. You can't do that with OEM so that is K&N's claim to fame, some vehicles you do get a hp increase but depending on bike/conditions, etc..the Hayabusa isn't one of them. They also can cause mass air meters to fail and have rough idle issues to but that again depends on the make/model and application..

I've also seen people claim 5hp increase with a K&N but have yet to see anyone post anywhere near those gains.

For the cost, you are better off getting all short stacks for the airbox over a K&N if you want peak power gains...

From my experience the mass air meter problems occurs when people over oil the filter element causing excess oil to foul up the mass air meter.

 

[Rixy52]

Got my 2010 dyno'd. It's all stock except for the Akrapovic silencers (not full system). Max Power = 174.27 Max Torque 107.38 that's runing standard unleaded petrol here in the UK.

I've been thinking about a power commander but the power curve is dead smoth with no blips so I'm not sure it would be worth it. What do you guys think?

 

[dadofthree]

Sounds like save the money, but if you decide to dyno, for Gad sakes unleash that ECU

 

[dadofthree]

Got Busa please provide proof the K&N hurt him and is actually worse than oem.
That's one of if not the oldest RUMORS out there still yet to be proven.
I'm sure if it were true they'd still be in business right? I've seen that repeated here many many times and nobody has ever provided proof a K&N is worse than oem. Simply isn't true.


And to the op. get rid of the xtre. It is adding ZERO Hp to your bike and is killing your mpgs.
I've been there and done that. Got before and after dyno runs with and without xtre as well as four month long mpg test.
The only thing the xtre is accomplishing is removing top speed limiter which can be done by flashing the ecu.

It's been proven many times and also depends if you have the Race or regular replacement filter on many brands like Pipercrosse, BMC, etc..not just K&N.

It doesn't have anything to do with them and business. K&N is a filter than can be cleaned and recharged (as they like to say) when it's dirty. You can't do that with OEM so that is K&N's claim to fame, some vehicles you do get a hp increase but depending on bike/conditions, etc..the Hayabusa isn't one of them. They also can cause mass air meters to fail and have rough idle issues to but that again depends on the make/model and application..

I've also seen people claim 5hp increase with a K&N but have yet to see anyone post anywhere near those gains.

For the cost, you are better off getting all short stacks for the airbox over a K&N if you want peak power gains...

From my experience the mass air meter problems occurs when people over oil the filter element causing excess oil to foul up the mass air meter.

I have not seen any recent or Gen II test. We had a member on here that tested all kinds of set ups on his dyno and he found the K&N to be inferior to the OEM. The OEM gives you the same flow every time you replace it, the K&N and others mentioned depend on the end user. It would be nice if someone took the time to run some dyno testing. Another member stated correctly that using a flow bench is the only accurate test. That would be nice too. The problem with mags and I've never seen a mag do any testing of this nature is they receive advertising dollars and typically that dictates test results.

I'm getting ready to throw one of your OEM filters in before the Bash. The current filter and plugs have just over 22K miles on them. It's probably time for new ones

 

[Jza]

It's been proven many times and also depends if you have the Race or regular replacement filter on many brands like Pipercrosse, BMC, etc..not just K&N.

That's about as much proof as the guy saying +5bhp LOL...

Proof is Dyno number before and after not hearsay!! Lets see some facts please!!!

Jza

 

[Johnnycheese]

That's about as much proof as the guy saying +5bhp LOL...

Proof is Dyno number before and after not hearsay!! Lets see some facts please!!!

Jza

Fine Buy a Dyno like I did then you can say something other than that don't say ANYTHING

 

[SouthGABusa]

I have always thought my stock 2012 has 197hp. Don't remember where I saw this at.

 

[busacaptain]

I'm at 184 with ecu flash, Yosh TRS full system and a BMC filter. That's with 52k on the motor and never been cracked open except the oil plug and filter changed.

 

[Deviousbusa]

Each dyno will read differently so, that is important to keep in mind. My friend has the exact bike I have except he has the Akropovic full system 2-1, Bazazz, rest of the bike stock and put down 179whp. On his first run with the default map bazazz came with he put down 171whp.

Our bikes are rated at 197 at the crank and the number seem to be around 168 to 170 to the wheels stock.

 

[SouthGABusa]

Question with the air filters. How would the air filter change the dyno number? Because when a bike is on the dyno it is stationary and the air flow wouldn't change. Might not show the numbers on the dyno but would show it on with proper air flow.
Just something that I was thinking about when I couldn't sleep last night.

 

[dadofthree]

Question with the air filters. How would the air filter change the dyno number? Because when a bike is on the dyno it is stationary and the air flow wouldn't change. Might not show the numbers on the dyno but would show it on with proper air flow.
Just something that I was thinking about when I couldn't sleep last night.

I'll get toasted for this, but the K&N and others did not flow as well as the factory filter on the Gen I's , no one that I know of has tested them against the Gen II and the airbox and filter was changed.

1 benefit of them is that you clean, oil, and reuse. Of course you've got to do that right

I saw where you were getting one; I wouldn't.

To your question the motor is a huge pump and stationary it will suck your arse into a throttle body, airflow does not rely on bike movement at all, at speed with the Ram Air design you do get a slight positive pressure which helps HP slightly, but the motor will suck all the air you need without moving brother.

 

[dadofthree]

Even at triple digits you start loosing the ram air effect due to the dead air space created in front of the bike. That's why you see triple digit , drag , LSR guys install the 2 to 3 inch inlet tube extentions to get back into a forced air situation. The ones running turbos don't car about any of that because that snell shell forces all the air they need into the airbox.

 

[Flicka]

The actual SAE horsepower number given by Suzuki is 194.4 on Gen II Busas. Here's a shot of the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin for my 2009...

 

[dadofthree]

That's at the crank brother

 

[SouthGABusa]

I'm going to try and take it to a shop in Albany GA and get it on the dyno before and after the k&n airfilters. I will post the results if i can make this happen.