H.I.D.'s without the worry of clock reset
- Thread starter card16969
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jphilipson
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The clock reset is caused by the high current/emission from the igniters - just make sure they are located as far as possible from the gauge cluster.
card16969
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That is a great write up and how to man. Thanks for taking the time and thought to put that together without even being asked to do. Who says Americans are lazy? You are from America right?
I've had 35ddm hids in for approx 2 1/2 years and it only reset my clock once maybe twice? Since then it seems to have settled in and all parts are getting along with each other fine. I have seen others here who have the problem your write up addresses so thanks again for helping others.
Thanks i appreciate it, when i was looking up install write ups to see if anyone had any cool tricks or anything i kept seeing the same problem pop up over and over again and saw that people were using delay timers which in my opinion isnt exactly safe. And yes I am from America lol, figured since i spent 2 years in school specializing in motorcycles i might try to pass some knowledge around. I love the org because every bike is different and has its own set of specialty tools and ways of doing things and this place is great for learning those about our bikes especially opinions even on the most controversial things like tires and oil HAHA.
card16969
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Thats like saying that the ballasts are a potential E.M.P. and will shut down anything around it. BMW proved that it was the amperage draw on the system caused by the hids not an emission.. if there was an emission you could put a E.M.F. meter and get a reading from them. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/157222-hids-voltage-drop-solution.html
card16969
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Nice post bro....looking forward to seeing more from you as you progress in your build. Good luck and Thanks !!
thanks shes in the process of getting sprockets, air box mod, air filter, new powdercoated swing arm, powder coated rims and rearsets, frame covers and all plastics painted and forks rebuilt lol
jphilipson
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It's the igniters that do it in my experience - although high voltage ballasts will generate an EMF, that is the required to create the high voltage and is part of the basic principal. I moved them away from the cluster and have not had a reset since. And if it was voltage drop, then why did mine do it even when the voltage didn't drop? I have a voltmeter on the bike, so I know what's going on. Mine didn't do it when starting up (I always hold the starter button before turning on the key and pulling the clutch), but did it occasionally when flipping on the highs. Turns out the igniter for the high was mounted right next to the cluster. Since moving it there have been no further issues. And the high/lo beam are on their own circuit, so the the dropping the voltage on the cluster makes no sense to me; especially if my voltage gauge reads no drop.
card16969
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the igniter is internal on the ballast module and when your doing the same routine other people are doing you are bypassing the lights and starting the bike where the voltage and amperage of the lights is not effecting the circuit. Its actually the amperage draw on the circuit thats dropping everything too low, you have a voltage meter on the bike which is showing charging/battery voltage in the system. The amperage is not picked up by the voltage meter as amperage is independent per circuit of the bike, every electrical device is eating the amperage as it passes by that device and when your ballasts/igniters fire they are using excessive amount of amperage on a circuit where the wires are very thing and it cannot withstand the amperage draw on them and supply everything with the amount of amperage that i needs to operate. In a circuit your voltage can remain the same while the amperage fluxuates depending on usage.
How voltage, current, and resistance relate : OHM's LAW
jphilipson
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Yeap, I understand Ohms law. However in my experience I have not seen any correlation between the current (amps) or voltage on a circuit and the gauges resetting. All I know is that moving the igniters (mine are separate) away from the cluster solved my problem. Nothing else changed, and the problem has not returned. And since the headlamps on are a separate circuit from the cluster, that makes it make less sense to me. When I have some time, I will pop my ammeter on and see how the current draw changes on the cluster circuit when you fire the HIDs.
Anyway, sounds like one of those "we'll just have to agree to disagree" cases
- and I hope you never have a gauge reset on yours!
Anyway, sounds like one of those "we'll just have to agree to disagree" cases
- and I hope you never have a gauge reset on yours!
Sounds like its going to be pretty sweet when you get done. Can't wait to see it !!!
card16969
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Yeap, I understand Ohms law. However in my experience I have not seen any correlation between the current (amps) or voltage on a circuit and the gauges resetting. All I know is that moving the igniters (mine are separate) away from the cluster solved my problem. Nothing else changed, and the problem has not returned. And since the headlamps on are a separate circuit from the cluster, that makes it make less sense to me. When I have some time, I will pop my ammeter on and see how the current draw changes on the cluster circuit when you fire the HIDs.
Anyway, sounds like one of those "we'll just have to agree to disagree" cases
so your hid setup is 3 pieces.. ballast igniter and bulb?.... and no im not asking to start an argument im asking a legitimate question
card16969
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thanks i hope so im going the black and gold route all black all color matched frame swing arm everything and gold fairing bolts and hardware
jphilipson
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Yeah, 3 piece setup, bulb, igniter, ballast - and I have both high and low beam. It's a DDM tuning kit.
card16969
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weird my ddm kit is a 2 piece kit like most kits on the market... honestly ive handled/ installed over 100 hid kits and have NEVER seen a 3 piece kit
jphilipson
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Mine looks just like the one below. By 3 pc, I am referring to the igniter which is the black box attached to the wires.
card16969
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Mine looks just like the one below. By 3 pc, I am referring to the igniter which is the black box attached to the wires.
ahh yeah ok i see what your saying, yeah i personally stretch everything out and away from the bulb as far as i can and keep it away from sensitive electronics just personal lesson i learned a long time ago doing car audio... do not put any voltage source near something that can be interfered with. Big example is power wires for amps should cross the rca wiring at a ninety degree angle if it doesnt run parallel to it atleast 12" apart. But in all honestly that box should be shielded on the inside thats the whole reason for it being encased instead of just being shrink wrapped.
jphilipson
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card16969
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"Should be" and "made in China" often do not work well together
haha yeah i got really p'd off when i ordered my ddm they said they were in cali when i ordered them and then i get a email that they were being held up and having problems with them being shipped from china i was like WTF i thought i ordered american or atleast shipped from here haha
jphilipson
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Well, finally got a chance to throw the ammeter on the HID connection. I tested with the high, just cause it's easier. I have the HID's that are advertised as 35w. Well, they use a bit more than that
When you first switch them on and they are "igniting" they jumped up to 6.6 Amps. After running for 15-20 seconds they settled down to about 4.3 Amps. So not really a huge "spike" in amperage when they come on. However, according to my math at 12.6 volts, that's 54 watts. But, when running, the voltage is more like 13.8-14.0, so you are looking at 60 watts or more at regulated voltage. That's a bit off from 35, unless they sent me 55 watt units by mistake.
But according to basic wire size rules, there's no way 6.6 Amps is overloading the headlight circuit.
P.S. - Add one of these to your toolbox - they are super handy for testing Amp draw. Just pop out the fuse, and plug in the tester.
20 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester
When you first switch them on and they are "igniting" they jumped up to 6.6 Amps. After running for 15-20 seconds they settled down to about 4.3 Amps. So not really a huge "spike" in amperage when they come on. However, according to my math at 12.6 volts, that's 54 watts. But, when running, the voltage is more like 13.8-14.0, so you are looking at 60 watts or more at regulated voltage. That's a bit off from 35, unless they sent me 55 watt units by mistake.
But according to basic wire size rules, there's no way 6.6 Amps is overloading the headlight circuit.
P.S. - Add one of these to your toolbox - they are super handy for testing Amp draw. Just pop out the fuse, and plug in the tester.
20 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester
card16969
Registered
Well, finally got a chance to throw the ammeter on the HID connection. I tested with the high, just cause it's easier. I have the HID's that are advertised as 35w. Well, they use a bit more than that
When you first switch them on and they are "igniting" they jumped up to 6.6 Amps. After running for 15-20 seconds they settled down to about 4.3 Amps. So not really a huge "spike" in amperage when they come on. However, according to my math at 12.6 volts, that's 54 watts. But, when running, the voltage is more like 13.8-14.0, so you are looking at 60 watts or more at regulated voltage. That's a bit off from 35, unless they sent me 55 watt units by mistake.
But according to basic wire size rules, there's no way 6.6 Amps is overloading the headlight circuit.
P.S. - Add one of these to your toolbox - they are super handy for testing Amp draw. Just pop out the fuse, and plug in the tester.
20 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester
Your right its not overloading the wirings ability if it was the wire would go up in smoke (been there done that) but at the same time that those HID's are kicking on the gauges are going through their motor cycle finding their parameters the clocks on fuel pumps running all the sensors are going through their initial startup and other things are going on in the bike drawing down amperage and its not the amperage while the bike is running that matters its the amperage in the battery because charging phase hasnt started yet. The system was designed to run the stock bulbs which are VERY low amperage draw but as your firing up the ballasts and igniters under just the batteries voltage/amperage and not charging systems voltage/amperage, its a sudden pull instead of a light pull which drops the amperage/voltage enough to reset the clock. The wiring used to power the stock bulbs can handle the overall voltage/amperage of the hid's while running but its the initial pull while everything else is running its course during startup that they cant handle, as you are trying to force a sudden amount of power through that small wiring its bringing the impedence up and it cant handle the sudden draw. If you hook up a peak voltage adapter you will see that the numbers are alot higher during initial startup than your meter can read on its own. Thats why supplying power from another source like i did with the relays it completely eliminates worrying about the high draw through the rest of the wiring harness and has its own direct power.
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