? Hayabusa break-in ?

G

Guest

check the magnetic cap for amount of metal dust during ur next oil change .... if theres a lot stuck on the magnet, means u've been breaking-in ur bike too hard(redline?) I didn't have any metal dust at all in the first stage break-in ... 2nd stage i had a little only.


Good Luck to u
Terence
 
If you've already seen redline numerous times before hitting 500 miles then the damage is done.

Follow the manual, they don't print it there for no reason.

During break in, things are seating, polishing, fitting in, etc.

Good luck in the future. You may start seeing problems with your motor when everyone else that followed the break-in is out enjoying life!!

I've had my Blue/Silver 2000 'Busa for 4 weeks now and haven't had the opportunity to put more than 300 miles yet because of the New England weather...even though I've been tempted to get her up over 5500 rpms, I've restrained in doing so because after building many a car and dirt bike engine, I know just how extremely important this period is.

Good luck.
 
I have a 2000 'busa. Only have 200 mi. on it since here in Pa. we have had enough rain to last the year! I am also tempted at times to pass the 5500 mark, but just can't do it.....Too much $$$ and too nice a bike to ruin. I am planning however to do more of a progressive break in. I am at 500 mi. going to go to 6500 and 600 mi. go to 7500. I think this is a better break in than the manual states. There is less of a jump in rpm's. Also, I will not floor it untill I have reached the 1000 mi. mark. Half throttle is plenty to get around town :-)
 
I guess Im a Bad Bad Biscuit !!! I for one have been to 9500 more than a couple of times within the first 60 miles.If it blows I'll buy some pistons!!!!
run it like ya want it to run!!!!
 
During the initial 500 miles the manual says that the rpms should be kept below 5500. Under 1000 miles the rpms should be kept under 8000.
I have 400 miles on my 2000 blue/silver Busa and have seen the redline numerous times already. Those low rpm numbers stated in the Hayabusa manual seem to err on the cautious side.
What do you think the real deal with the break in period is? How did you break yours in?

-thanks

[This message has been edited by Mabusa (edited 30 April 2000).]

[This message has been edited by Mabusa (edited 30 April 2000).]
 
I think that "run it like you want it to run" is an old tale. Seems to me if you break it in properly, letting parts seat and mate properly, you'll have a tighter bike internally, which not only should translate into increased durability and longevity, but I would think performance would be better. Tighter pistons, higher compression, better horsepower...but I'm no mechanic expert, (always ridden more than worked on them). as they say, "my 2 cents"....But I've wondered if manufacturer liability has something to do with writing the manuals like they do, but I'm not taking any chances.
 
4-stroke engines have come ALONG way . ..

In my opinion... Suzuki suggests those break in numbers more so to train the rider on the bike. Just like Bridgestone recommends 100miles on a new tire before hitting a certain speed and brake hard etc etc...You can scuff in a new tire in a mile or two! By anyone who has gone from flat profile tires to brand new aggressive profile tires knows how odd it feels to ride on new tires.. therefore you should slowly proceed with the new tire untill you are used to it..

Imagine a rookie hoping on a busa and redlining on his first ride.. He would kill himself.. But if he progressively gets faster over say uhh 1000miles or so, then he will be able to control such a bike...

Ride your new Busa like you are going to ride it in the future.. but YES because everything is seating and falling into place.. DON'T hold the throttle in one position untill 1000miles or so, don't drive around at a slow speed..it will glaze...

Constantly change your speed.. accellerate hard AND decellerate hard! ALWAYS change your oil regularly

The first 200 k's I rode by the book, untill I got comfortable in the saddle...then I started to experiment a little..

by 700k's, it was on the Dyno and dished out impressive numbers... at 1200k's I dumped the oil.. very little shavings on the magnet..

Now that some new Suzuki oil is in the engine.. I drive it like I stole it...

Runs awesome!!

........enjoy.
 
50 to 100 miles is enough, just need to get rings seated enough to disipate heat from piston crown to cylinder wall. Valves should be seated before engine is started if valve job is done properly. What else needs longer breakin, I haven't a clue. Engine bearings? Pleeze. Tranny, Not. How many of yu gys built a drag bike engine and made 2000 5K rpm passes to break it in? thats what i thot.
 
Jr your right on the money!! I hear promods go thru a 1500 mile breakin with alternating heat cycles..heheheheheh THE breakin is in the waterbox.
 
in the mags they are already doing top speed test with 100 to 200 miles on them but for me i follow the manual. hell just got my bike and have already pick up a nail ! have had my zx-11 3 years never got a nail go figure ?
 
I work for a large tractor company. We spend months running engines 24 hrs a day to determine such things as optimal breakin etc. Highly trained and skilled engineers spend huge amounts of time coming up with the stuff you read in the owners manual.

Mabusa what makes you think you know more than a pack of Suzi engineers? Are you an automotive engineer?

[This message has been edited by Lyle (edited 01 May 2000).]
 
I'm new to this forum but not to bikes.
When I purchased my kawasaki concours back in 1986-88 (3 in all - Wrecked 2)I was working at a large dealership.
This is how we broke in the new bikes.

Use NON synthetic oil for the first 100 miles. Change oil @ 100 miles. This allows metal particles to remain in the oil long enough to help scuff the cylinder walls.
Continue to use Non synthetic oil 'till about 4 or 500 miles. This helps break in the transmissions parts and does help the bike shift smoother.

Running in:

I do this with as little as 1 mile on the bike.

With the engine at operating temp go to 5,000rpm in 3rd gear. Hold back bike with rear brake while rolling on to full throttle. Accelerate to 8,000rpm. Let off brake and close throttle. Let bikes engine slow you down. Repeat 3 times. As you de-accelerate crankcase pressure throws the particle laden oil on to the pistons. This is what helps seat the rings.

Run bike 'till it reaches operating temp and then let cool COMPLETELY. Do this about 5 times. This allows the engine parts made of dis-similar materials to seat to each other.
This heat cycling is used by many engine builders on race engines.

Now you can run up to red-line but don't hold it there. After 500 miles and with the regular oil you plan to use you can "Cane The tits off it" without harming it.

I broke my 1200 Daytona (and several friends bikes -race and street) in on my DynoJet Dyno using the Dyno's brake and made sure to have the cooling fan on full blast and wired the bikes fan on as they tend to heat up.
quickly in a confined area. Didn't hoook up the Dyno's exhaust collectors either to prevent heat.

One of the Concours is still running with nearly 90,000 miles on the clock and my Daytona has 35,000 on it and still makes big power for what it is!!

Curt Easterbrook
Centralia, Wa.
 
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