Hayabusa Fuel Pump

My idea is to maintain only the in tank filter and the injectors filters(like the second series system); eventually install one paper filter between tank and pump (cutting the hose). I really intend cut the filter parts in white "fuel pump insulator".

In this condition I have one paper filter before pump, but no paper filter after pump that is a terrible obstruction for flow rate and pressure.

I'll inform You on results after test.

bye markenaim
 
Didn't get to check my ride out over the weekend
. Hopefully i will get to work on her this weekend. Will start off by removing and inspecting the f/p. Hopefully i have something in my tool box to check out pump pressure 1st...
 
Hallo IKE,

Yesterday evening I spoke with my mechanic and he will try to install a pump without inside filters in body pump, after this test I'll call him to know the results and copy(if it will be satisfactory) the way.
But I would like to know what Chris_IPTE had installed for completely solve his problem for know the caracteristics of installed components.

Bye Markenaim
 
Dears,

This week end i have changed the fuel hoses with new hoses more strong, and disassembled another time my pump and replace the internal filter retainer Oring , but after reassembled and installed, no difference, again hesitation, the engine is ok at minimum but increasing rpm born hesitation, like function on 3 cilinders.

I have the last option, before burn all, replace the Oring of pressure pipe of internal pump, because I suppose that it has 13 years old.

News from Your experiment?
bye Marco
 
Thanks a lot BusaBim,

I'm sure that your solution is good and I ask You how many time your bike run with second pump.

My afraid is the electrical wire connection of new pump, because the the original pump start for 3 second when turn ON and if you do not push start, it switch OFF.

my skills are limited on electricity, and I'm afraid to make some damage.

Couldn't you specify the wire connection used in your realization?

Bye and thanks for help

Marco
 
5000 Km in one week trip, now 4 months with 2 pumps.
one wire to ground and one to power in fuse box that is only on when ignition is on. Look at my pictures for more details.

Not very complicated if you look at pictures.


BB
 
Many Thanks BB,

I'm thinking connection on battery with relay controlled by original pump........ I'm raving,

Many thanks

Bye Marco
 
Here is pic . last post didnt load properly.
20131009_092647_1_1.jpg
 
I too have a 99' and i'm having a similar problem. My bike sat for about 10years and I have done some work to get the bike road worthy again but after putting about 3,000 mile a couple days ago I have noticed loss of power no torque and it is hesitant when I crank down on the throttle. In top gear the bike wont go over 140 and its notchy and hesitant in all gears when ever the throttle is twisted with any type of quickness. the bike has ran great upto a week ago when I noticed it started a little funny. Never opend the fuel system I was just told to run the bike and clear the motor out, any little problems will fix themselves even though that was against my gut feeling...I know this post was years ago but any Idea's will be much appreciated thanks for any help Im dying to ride again.:thumbsup:
 
Supersmoker,

Check tank is not rusted out first. Then disassemble the external fuel pump and check all filters. If the bike has some miles, replace the fuel pump with an aftermarket one. You should also add a secondary low pressure fuel pump as the original design is seriously flawed and abandoned by Suzuki. All fuel hoses need to be replaced as well.

BB
 
Will do!!! thanks Busabim:bowdown:. Saturday I pulled the tank and removed the old soft fuel lines that were damn near twisted n kinked. The tank had some rust left in it so I pulled the petcock and fuel sending unit to flush the tank a little better as it needed. the bike only has 7,400 miles so id like to keep everything stock. Im thinking since the bike sat for so long i'd like to just throw a new stock pump back on the bike as I will with the new fuel lines. Not sure what to do about the injectors hope I didn't ruin them for crying out loud. Now whats the deal with the secondary fuel pump the bike wont run fine with just 1 stock fuel pump.Thanks for your time and I appreciate the answer in helping me sort these issue's.:bigsmile:
 
Supersmoker,

The stock 1999/2000 fuel system overheats in hot weather and the bike just dies or runs poorly. Mine cut out when the bike got hot in northern summer, after I had replaced the entire fuel system components and filters.

The problem is vapor lock in the gravity fed tank lines; Adding a secondary pump always keeps the fuel system under prime and there is no chance for vapor lock to stall out the bike in hot temperatures under the tank.

The design was abandoned by Suzuki for a reason. You cannot place a car style fuel pump assembly under an oven and not expect problems.

BB
 
Mark

That is the updated pump I am now running! The pump fits exactly as stock and has a slightly better flow rate. There is no modification necessary. Justin offers good customer service as well.

When I have a chance I will split open the old pump and see the internals.

There is talk that the old pump used to shed copper and that it is what is stuck in the bottom of the screen that supports the internal fuel pump. I cant comment on this because when I took my pump out, the fuel pump screen was not too bad but I did not have a lot of miles ( less than 10000) on my bike.

Please see pictures in this post of clogged screen. I think Suzuki knew there was a problem with the pump and that screen is really not for fuel but for pump related debris.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/147532-how-diy-1999-2000-step-step-fuel-pump-filter-replacement-no-more-cutting-out.html

Busabim
 
Dear Busabim,

Today I take one day of holyiday for replace the o-ring in pump, this is the fourth time that I open the pump and can do it at close eyes.
But after remounting all, NOTHING, some before, no difference, hesitation over 3000rpm and irregular, like 3 cilinder run, below 3000rpm.
Some situation I remember last year when the bike stay to mechanic one month for big problem caused the distribution chain tensioner,
the pump stay out of bike for one month and after I must replace because do not run properly.
Next step I intend install the aftermarket pump by Hamilton sport, lucky that it's arriving winter.
Bye Mark
 
Mark,

When you open up pump assembly, are all filters clean as new?

Have you replaced all fuel lines? If so, add the secondary low pressure pump

BB
 
Dear Busabim,
The filters are clean like the new, the fuel line is new both, only one strange thing, I remouve the regulator and I have not found the small filter like a pin, there isn'tthe filter.

I ordered yesterday the new pump from hamilton, now when I'll replace it I'll check the result; but the strange thing is that when I open the pump for check the connection, all run correctly, only some "off" at red light or arriving to roundabout, and in mountain when very hot.

Bye to next step Marco
 
Dear Busarider,

thanks for Your contribute,
I know that kickstand cut the current, I have problems of sputter but always with cough and sputting the engine increase the rpm,
Waiting the new pump, yesterday after replace the battery, the battery indicate with engine OFF 13V, I try the functionality of current regulator and I found strange values:

- at minimum rpm with light OFF I have 14,5V, - at 2500 rpm with light OFF 13,9V,- at 4500 rpm with light OFF 13,7V
- at minimum rpm with all light ON I have 14,5V, - at 2500 rpm with all light ON 14,3V.- at 4500 rpm with light ON 14,2V,

After test, about 3 min, with engine OFF the battery indicate 13,36V and the regulator is very hot, is difficult to maintain the contact with hand.

At this stage I do not know what think, if it is the regulator or pump(already ordinate).
Please what is your mind or experience?

Bye and Thanks
Marco
 
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