Hayabusa Gen 1 2000, 2 & 3 Cylinders Not Firing, Losing Coolant, Original Problem Is Back.

[David Offor]

I spoke too soon about my fixed bike.
It's back to my original problem.

2 & 3 cylinders not firing.
Loosing water.

So, bike is stripped (again).
This time the head has been eliminated and the only thing with a ? Mark over it, is the bore mid section, as this is the only thing that hasn't been changed but I did have checked out by a local bike specialist shop.

Recently I found that my fuel pump had virtually failed, so I'm guessing, bring the bike back to full power, uncovered the bikes original underlying problem, that I never found.

Has anyone had a bore section keep blowing head gaskets or cracks between waterways, between cylinders?
Eliminating everything else has brought me to the conclusion that this component is faulty but any suggestions are welcome.
Dave.

 

[David Offor]

Bolted the head to the bore section and filled No. 2 with white spirit, to test for l leakage but it's holding fine.

I'm mistified at the moment.

 

[fallenarch]

Is it possible there is a problem in the coolant system and you have too high pressures or something like that? When you said it was blowing out the gaskets made me think maybe everything you keep checking that cheack ok actually is ok?

 

[David Offor]

2 cylinders are also dropping out, no firing at all on no. 2 and only partial on no. 3, also the inlet valves are clean on no. 2, looks like it's been not running since putting it back together, it has all the symptoms of headgasket, pressurising, cylinders not firing, different coloured valves.
It's a replacement head from a 16k busa, I've done a compression test (showed about 160 across all cylinders), fitted new set of plugs today Ngk cr9e, swapped an injector from one of the working cylinders, swapped coils from working cylinders, tried a spare same ECU, checked fuel pump pressure again (43 psi), checked injectors pulsing, outside of throttle bodies, all injecting.
The only thing I haven't changed is the bore section but can't see any damage on it.
This is the original problem I had with the bike, when I bought it, I thought I had fixed it but obviously not.

 

[David Offor]

It would have to be tremendous pressure to blow the gasket and that would probably blow the water out of the rad cap, before blowing the headgasket, pressurisation usually comes from exhaust/compression gasses, getting into the water system.

 

[David Offor]

Update-:
I've found that my engine oil level, is right down, which indicates burning off, so, checked the ring gaps (no. 2 has the largest ring gaps but still just within tolerance), oil could be blowing past the rings, bore midsection could have a crack between waterways and timing chain cutout, would explain loss of water but not pressurisation.
No. 2, both inlet valves clean, only needed to wipe off a slight greasy residue with a tissue, to make them shine, no firing or very inconsistent firing on that cylinder.

 

[fallenarch]

that's crazy. Hope you figure it out

 

[David Offor]

Luckily I kept my old rings, so I've managed to get all the ring gaps down, to within tolerance, now I need to duels it up again and see what happens.
It's been giving me this problem, ever since I got the bike, a real headache.

The top figures are what I found and the lower figures are what I have now.

 

[David Offor]

I'm thinking of fitting another 'cometic' headgasket to my bike, when it goes back together or the official Suzuki headgasket, does anyone have any suggestions about which is the best one to fit???

 

[GIXERHP]

At this point i would look deeply into the cylinder head. I have seen 2 bikes with cracks in the valve chambers.
The head need to be hot to find the cracks

 

[David Offor]

It's a different cylinder head but same problem, so I'm thinking the cylinder mid section has a problem, I've dropped both head and cylinder section off at a machine shop, to be skimmed, I just need a new head gasket, hopefully get them back next Tuesday and then start building it up again.
My dad suggested something interesting, bent con rods, causing the piston to rise and fall tilted, I'd entertain anything, that seems feasible at the moment.
Hopefully the machine shop will find something, I'm getting fed up stripping this down but on the plus side, I now know a lot about hayabusas lol.

 

[David Offor]

that's crazy. Hope you figure it out

oil level was a red herring, for some reason the oil wasn't showing up in the sight glass, one good bit of news, no water in the oil either and a good couloir.

 

[David Offor]

Update:-

Got the mid section and head back, both skimmed the guy said that the midsection was warped and that's what's been causing my problems, he was adamant about it, I've got a .40 conetic head gasket on the way, so hopefully might have it running tomorrow, got the mid section in position already, fingers crossed.
Will update, when I get a chance.

 

[turbojonny]

Has the head ever been milled?

 

[David Offor]

Do you mean skimmed? If so, then I believe not.
My bike has done 40,000 miles and I bought it from the 1st owner but he had neglected it really badly (mechanically) first oil change I did, came out like jet black tar, in my 30 years as a mechanic, ive never seen oil this thick and black, even out of a 50 yr old diesel coach, let alone a high performance petrol modern motorcycle.
I removed the head, after a leak down test showed 3 cylinders not holding pressure, to find badly worn valve stem guides, so I sourced another head, from eBay off a 16,000 mile bike, put the bike back together with new headgasket but at this stage, I didn't know about the fuel pump and injector filter problem, so, after fixing the pump and injector filters, I restored full fuel pressure, which I believe exploited the underlying problem, of the warped mid section (if what the machine guy, says is true), just need to wait and see, when the headgasket turns up, still waiting.

 

[David Offor]

Update on my continuing woes-:
Got the engine up and running but it feels lumpy under 3000rpm and then, suddenly the revs shoot up to 5000rpm, it feels like it's bogging down and then clears through. I also have a pressure gauge inline between tank/pump and injector rail, to test for any loss of fuel pressure.

The bike still won't rev past 9-10,000rpm, without bringing on a misfire code (C26 for e.g) and feeling like lots of holding back/missfires.

I'm thinking maybe the TPS is faulty, I've done a test off of the bike but feel it's inconclusive. The test shows 0.2 but the book says minimum should be 1.3, also book says max should be 4.5 but I'm reading 4.7, could this cause flat revs, upto 3000rpm????

 

[David Offor]

Testing my tps voltage values on the bike, voltage feed (tps disconnected) is ok, reconnect tps and test for closed and open throttle position, closed is showing correct at 1.10V but fully open throttle is only showing 4.1V and book says it should be at 4.5V,

Could this explain my missfires at high rpm?

Could a faulty TPS cause my engine to run flat, until 3000rpm and then pick up?

Could a faulty TPS be supplying too much fuel from idle upto 3000rpm?

I still seem no closer to finding my running gremlins .
Any suggestions will be appreciated.

P.s I've also tried another rectifier, some people have suggested this as a possibility.

 

[David Offor]

This is the test, to check correct fuel pressure under priming and during engine running conditions.

 

[David Offor]

Update-:

Fitted another TPS, no difference, checked valve clearances, all within tolerance.
Will recheck timing.

Any ideas?????

 

[David Offor]

Timing good.
Took it upto 9-10,000rpm again, C26 code up on dash again (cylinder 3 missfire) and I swapped no. 3 coil to no. 1, after it brought up the C26 last run, with the original TPS, so I've eliminated coil and TPS.

Could a faulty crankshaft sensor cause these types of running problems? Injectors? Water temp switch faulty, making the ECU think the bike is cold, causing overfueling?