Hayabusa running rough after just 5 months non use

[captainkirkatv]

Started my Hayabusa this past week and it was tough to start. Ran very rough and had to give past half throttle to wake it up. It ran better half throttle and above but ran very rough at idle and died a couple times too. Haven't done anything to cause the problem. The injectors were sent out to Injector Specialist in New Jersey just 8 months ago. 3 were rebuilt and one was replaced. Ran awesome and purred like a kitten. Now its acting as if it is seriously out of timing. The gas is 5 months old and its the oxygenated fuel we are forced to purchase here in Metro Phoenix. This gas sucks royal and causes corrosion and gumming issues if left to sit long but just 5 months ? really ? Could it be the injectors again ? so soon after being serviced ?

 

[busafan08]

Drain the tank out and put some good fresh petrol and perhaps some seafoam to blast that build up of crap thats in there even in winter i ride my bikes for this reason the more you ride them the better they are good luck

 

[Telboy2000]

If its a Gen 2 the iridium plugs fur up easily and cause misfiring til they get a good blast heat wise.
If you can get some...add isopropyl alcohol to the tank...it will stabilise the petrol , dissolve gum and help any water in the tank get emulsioned with the fuel allowing it to burn off.....if not then add a small (cupful) amount of cheap cellulose thinners to the fuel....does the same job but obviously be careful around the paintwork.
Silkolene do a fuel system treatment which is a milder version of these which i suspect has something like a little 2 stroke oil in it to act as a lubricant.

 

[captainkirk]

I believe mine is a 2002, I will try you suggestions

 

[dadofthree]

Replace the fuel and add seafoam.Make sure the battery is 100% and ride the dDayum thing

 

[Deviousbusa]

Great advice above, another option is the stabil marine mix, it works a bit better than the standard stabil. However, before adding it in, I would drain the tank as others recommend. If it still runs rough, I would recommend checking the plugs to make sure that the bad fuel did not somehow foul them out. Of course, it will take a few minutes to fully cycle out the bad fuel so, make sure and add some stabil next time you let the bike sit for more than a few weeks.

Good luck!

 

[Quiksilver]

If that doesn't work maybe cHeck the fuel filter it could be crummy from old fuel Gumming it up or dirty fuel injector screens.

 

[IG.]

If you never added Stabil or similar 5 months ago, I think 5 months is a long way for any gas to just be sitting around. I wouldn't go beyond a few weeks, max. a month with non-treated gas. Your filter is likely clogged. If the bike is rideable, put Sea Foam or Techron per instructions, and like someone said ride the heck out of it in hopes things get cleaned. Try raising idle to 1500-1700 so the bike doesn't die. That's where I keep my idle anyway.

Next time you need to leave the bike for long, add Stabil per instructions, idle or better yet ride for 5-10 min, and then you can leave the bike for up to a year, and she will start right up. I have an almost 1 year old gas for my generator (although I do keep in a can). Every time I put the gas in, the generator starts and works with no issues. However, per Honda recommendation I completely remove fuel from the generator, i.e. I idle it until the fuel is gone and the generator dies. Actually, this could be a good alternative if you know the bike will be sitting for a long time. use up all the gas until the bike dies. The only thing you should do is spray the inside of the tank with something to prevent corrosion from moisture. So, maybe adding Stabil to a full tank would be better.

 

[captainkirkatv]

Well I did a full 16 oz can of the seafoam in the gas and very little improvement. So I started checking connections to the injectors, they were all solid. While pulling the injectors and fuel rail, something I had not experienced before occurred. I had already removed injectors 1, 3 & 4 (left to right). #2 was in a little tight and when removing number 2 injector just as the o ring seal was broken a bunch of fuel shot back at me under pressure. I would think that this would indicate the # 2 injector was plugged or heavily restricted since the fuel was still under pressure. Injectors 1,3 4 didnt have any spray back or built up pressure. I didnt see any varnish or buildup on the tip of # 2. I cleaned all the injectors and fuel rail, minor areas of varnish here and there mainly located on outside of O ring seals. This happen to anyone before ?

 

[Telboy2000]

Are you completely sure the fuel rail is clean...the 1st injector removed should have relieved any remaining pressure in the rail...its just a common rail with T pieces for the injectors to be fed from.
Injectors are just a fancy valve that opens to let fuel from the rail into the throttle bodies...they don't create pressure themselves.
IMO there is something wrong on either side of the no2 injector T piece
Pull the rail completely apart and be gently as the O rings are delicate and crack easily....clean every section ...fuel might not have been getting to all the injectors.

 

[captainkirkatv]

Completely disassembled the fuel rail, nothing found, pretty clean on inside had a little dirt and road soot on the outside of the o-rings (to be expected). Cleaned everything up around the o-rings and made sure they were in tip top shape then reassembled. No change. The engine still runs a little rough. It will idle just fine but I can tell its not like it was before. Previously this motor just purred and when you gave it gas it didn't hesitate at all. Now the idle its a little rough has a slight hiccup and it has a some hesitation upon acceleration. While working the throttle with air box and filter off I did observe a flash back "backfire" just under the choke plate" So I have some unburnt fuel loading up and then igniting at the wrong time. The back-flash occurred at 3-4 from L-R. I'm think of sending the injectors out again for a flow test but they look spotless and unless one of them failed while sitting for 5 months I am now wondering if i have a timing issue, ECM ? Sensors ?

 

[dadofthree]

Ever had the valves checked ?

 

[captainkirkatv]

I haven't checked the valves. Engine ran perfect before the tear-down. I did nothing to engine besides powder coat the case & head cover(s). 1st off I tried starting engine again. It was tough to start and idled rough.
With the air filter off I looked down into the head to see whats up. The engine stopped at a point where #3 cylinder valves were both open. Cylinders 1,2 and 4 were completely closed. This is when I noticed that all the valves were WET. In fact there was raw fuel resting on top of the valves in all three cylinders in which both valves were closed. In cylinder # 3 there was very good vapor mix.
I saw posts about bad plugs, does this sound / look like a plug problem ? These plugs have at most 2-3 hours on them. The only area of engine that I potentially may have affected timing was where the stator is. I had to completely remove the stator from the cover which I then reinstalled in reverse order. Is there a sensor that gets timing info from the stator pick up that is related to timing ? Also I still haven't sent the injectors out wanted to see if anything else may be problem 1st. What are the recommend plugs CR9e or CR9ek or ? (see photo attachment)
I enhanced the picture to show you the fuel. the light yellowish-green you see where the valves seal against the head is unburnt fuel. The black is not OIL, is is carbon that is wet from the fuel.

 

[captainkirkatv]

Pulled plugs, they were wet also but not like the op of the valves. Tops of pistons look wet also, again just damp not glistening like the valves. Getting new plugs

 

[captainkirkatv]

Installed new plugs NGK CR9ek plugs. No help. Looked back inside head and ALL the valves were super wet. #1 and #2 were fully closed with raw fuel present, #3 & #4 very good vapor mix. So I don't know if I'm dealing with a fuel overload or a timing / spark issue. The injectors are certainly putting out fuel and the nozzles have no residue.

 

[GSXcite]

Have you checked the battery to see if it is fully charged and that you don't have a bad cell?

 

[cosmic_ocean]

I haven't checked the valves. Engine ran perfect before the tear-down. I did nothing to engine besides powder coat the case & head cover(s). 1st off I tried starting engine again. It was tough to start and idled rough.
With the air filter off I looked down into the head to see whats up. The engine stopped at a point where #3 cylinder valves were both open. Cylinders 1,2 and 4 were completely closed. This is when I noticed that all the valves were WET. In fact there was raw fuel resting on top of the valves in all three cylinders in which both valves were closed. In cylinder # 3 there was very good vapor mix.
I saw posts about bad plugs, does this sound / look like a plug problem ? These plugs have at most 2-3 hours on them. The only area of engine that I potentially may have affected timing was where the stator is. I had to completely remove the stator from the cover which I then reinstalled in reverse order. Is there a sensor that gets timing info from the stator pick up that is related to timing ? Also I still haven't sent the injectors out wanted to see if anything else may be problem 1st. What are the recommend plugs CR9e or CR9ek or ? (see photo attachment)
I enhanced the picture to show you the fuel. the light yellowish-green you see where the valves seal against the head is unburnt fuel. The black is not OIL, is is carbon that is wet from the fuel.

Check the CKP (Crankshaft position) sensor, fixed on the generator cover for proper working using a multimeter. Also check its leads to the ECU for proper circuitry. The ECU decides both ignition timing and fuel injection parameters based on the input it receives from the CKP.

 

[Telboy2000]

you sure that fuel, surface tension of petrol molecules isn't that good to form blobs unless waters involved.
usually unburnt petrol just leaves things totally wet as its absorbed by the carbon etc.
buy a cheap borescope and look inside the cylinders to see what going on in there.....only $10 for a usb model

 

[captainkirkatv]

I tried to post a video file with AUDIO but couldnt get the file small enough. I'm checking into the Crank sensor. I have a 50-50 mix of fuel and Seafoam, dont know if thats contributing to problem or not. In my experience with motors it just seems out of time. If I pull the CPU out can the dealer check it for proper operation or do they need it installed to check it out. Im thinking it may be a sensor problem like the crank sensor or the CPU. I did accidentially hook up the battery leads backwards to the engine, didnt blow a fuse or anything just wouldnt start up or activate the gage display. Hooked it up correctly and it will start but runs rough. Could i have fried a sensor ?

 

[cosmic_ocean]

I tried to post a video file with AUDIO but couldnt get the file small enough. I'm checking into the Crank sensor. I have a 50-50 mix of fuel and Seafoam, dont know if thats contributing to problem or not. In my experience with motors it just seems out of time. If I pull the CPU out can the dealer check it for proper operation or do they need it installed to check it out. Im thinking it may be a sensor problem like the crank sensor or the CPU. I did accidentially hook up the battery leads backwards to the engine, didnt blow a fuse or anything just wouldnt start up or activate the gage display. Hooked it up correctly and it will start but runs rough. Could i have fried a sensor ?

Check the CKP sensor/circuit and to clear things once and for all, take out all the fuel, flush the entire fuel system (check if the pump is working fine without obstruction) and refill fresh gas. Old gasoline that has sat still from disuse can put out the fuel pump or cause rough running, as it will have lost most of its ignitability. Should hopefully solve the issue.