Badbus, there are a few things to watch out for. The front brake line will be a little short. Won't allow the bars to be raised enough to install both; at least not without a lot of strain. Look down where the brake line is attached to the fork with a clip. There is an extra thickness of tubing, almost like a grommet, that the clip grips. Loosen the clip and raise the rubber tubing to where the thick part is just above the clip.Tighten the clip. Mine still has more than enough slack below the clip. Make sure yours does, too. I suppose you could wrap the rubber tube with something where it contacts the clip to prevent any long term chafing, but I'm going to braided lines anyway, and they won't chafe. I'll make sure they are about 1" longer than stock. No signs of chafing after about a month and 2000 miles. Probably would never be a problem, but I'm trying to be cautious.
I also loosened the banjo bolt near my master cylinder VERY SLIGHTLY to get the straightest possible run for the tubing. Re-tighten.
The fast-idle(choke) cable may need to be repositioned aft of the steering head, and run directly to the throttle body. On Ca. bikes this is a necessity, not sure about others. Otherwise at full left lock it will rev the engine. Five minute job.
The last item will be the windscreen. I have Zero Gravity's Sport Touring screen, and I had to trim the lower portion an inch or so with a Dremel to get clearance between the bars and master cylinder and the screen. Easy to do, and doesn't change the look of the screen. If you didn't know, you'd never spot it. I don't know what screen you are using. Maybe you will need to trim, maybe not. No big deal.
A final thought: when you re-tighten the bolts holding the bars, pay attention to the torque setting, or at least don't over-tighten or you will compress the rubber and get a lot of vibration. Good luck.