Hello, I am Korean. Please help me ( HAYABUSA GEN3 DYNOGET

korea sangwoo

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Hi, I'm a Korean running the Hayabusa 2024 model. Somehow I ended up in the forum.

I'm writing like this because I don't think there's any information about Hayabusa 2024 in Korea.

The first thing I'm curious about is

Is the DYNO Power Commander V product compatible with Hayabusa 24?

If you look at the DYNO website, 2024 Hayabusa
Power Command V product is not compatible
It says that the Power Commanders 6 product is correct...

The Power Command V product from DYNO Korea dealer is
It can be mounted on Hayabusa 2024 and is said to be viable

U.S. headquarters and Korean dealers have different opinions

Do you know anyone?



For now, my issue is that I have a 2024 Hayabusa bike equipped with a UK LEXTEK full exhaust system muffler and the air filter is equipped with a BMC air filter.

MY BIKE mileage 1600KM

After the customization process, at a certain 3500 RPM
Dissonance occurs. Stuttering occurs. That's why I bought DYNO Power Command V product.
But I can't catch the problem.
So I'm thinking about DYNO autotune.
 
Greetings
I also used power commander 6 but I was not satisfied at all and could not fix the problems. You need to make a new map at a proper dynojet dealer.
But pc6 and 5 4 injection are supported
So you need to get a secondary fuel module and find someone to set it properly..
I think don't bother, get software from Moore mafia.. if you want it to be easier
I would say get software from Bt-moto
Unfortunately powercoömandır hayabusa does not work properly either
 
So I'm thinking about DYNO autotune.
I used DJ PC5 with DJ Autotune module since 2013. It was not on my busa, it was on my ZX-14. On my 2008 ZX-14, Autotune did not keep the AFR steady. DJ Autotune is very very very slow compared to more sophisticated AFR tuners available. If you ride at one throttle position and cruise at exactly the same rpm, DJ Autotune will take about 3 or 4 seconds to correct your AFR. Change throttle positions or rpm, it has to start all over again. There is absolutely no way it will adjust AFR perfectly in normal sport riding. Further, the system overwrites any good trims it has made when you back off the throttle. In other words, if you're decelerating, even at partial throttle, you're going to get bad trims. ...at least that was my experience with the ZX-14. Don't get me wrong, it's a great and affordable tuning device but you need to use it properly and then apply the trims to your map immediately. If interested, I can give you more info about how I used it successfully but for now, I can tell you it definitely does not tune your AFR while you ride. It does it's best and then it overwrites everything. I had lots of experience with it. I guess if someone tells you it works great on the Hayabusa, go for it but my experience is that you need to follow a pretty rigid procedure to gather trims and then save them. Ordinary riding produces mostly faulty trims. Maybe DJ has updated their product since I used it. It was just much too slow to work as advertised back in 2013. 12 samples per second is nothing compared to more advanced tuning devices that sample hundreds of times per second. ...oh and you will need to weld a bung for the O2 sensor into your pipe no matter what tuner you use.

You could have a bad map. If you want to view your AFR in real time, you could go with the POD 300 by DJ. I had the old LCD-200 and it worked great. If it shows a bad AFR, you know what the problem is. Of course, if you want to view your AFR with the POD, you will also need Autotune to provide the signal for AFR.

I have a new bike and I'm going with Woolich on this one. It will be expensive but a full DJ setup with PC5, Autotune, Ignition module and POD must cost about 14 to 1500 dollars today.

There's also a chance this has nothing to do with AFR. We have this idiom in the US, "red herring". You might be chasing one.
 
 
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