New Hayabusa Gen3 Vibrations

Welcome.......

Although I can't help you with your problem as I don't have a Gen 3, the sad part is it could be almost anything....

Maybe the harmonic balancer is adjusted slightly out of spec....as described by our very own @c10

I'd imagine the Gen 3 is the same as the gen 2 as they share engines...

That is fantastic advice, will do that tomorrow myself.
Congrats on the purchase @Jurassic, personally I almost bought a BMW 1000 but even after riding one with all of the anti-vibe mods it was just too much for me. I can handle a VTwin all day long but struggle with the buz of an inline 4. The Bus is far better, but still not perfect. Will be interesting to hear if you can find a Gen 3 that doesn't do it for you.
 
I have maxed out the front preload and ended up with 46mm sag, a tad too much, as expected. What springs should I upgrade to in the front? Im 235lbs with gear. Should I go for linear ones? Would 10N springs do the trick? I guess it's most optimal to go with as little preload as possible while keeping the sag in check, yet dialing in some preload for that could allow to offset any potential weight loss down the road which I'm working on now. What do you guys think?
 
I have maxed out the front preload and ended up with 46mm sag, a tad too much, as expected. What springs should I upgrade to in the front? Im 235lbs with gear. Should I go for linear ones? Would 10N springs do the trick? I guess it's most optimal to go with as little preload as possible while keeping the sag in check, yet dialing in some preload for that could allow to offset any potential weight loss down the road which I'm working on now. What do you guys think?
Probably 1.1 springs
I like Race-Tech, and they have a weight calculator on their site.
You can add their Gold Valves too, that perform alot better than stock, and without the high cost of new cartridges.
Your sag should be about 35mm for the street, and if you like curves, a little firmer, down to 32mm.
 
Probably 1.1 springs
I like Race-Tech, and they have a weight calculator on their site.
You can add their Gold Valves too, that perform alot better than stock, and without the high cost of new cartridges.
Your sag should be about 35mm for the street, and if you like curves, a little firmer, down to 32mm.
What Six said. I am 190 with a lightish bike thanks to some carbon and ti fruit and I just went from 10.5 to 11NM/mm (1.1Kg/mm) in the Ohlins. Aiming for a 0.8 rear to front sag ratio eg. 30mm rear and 35mm front dynamic sag (fully geared) should give you a "flat ride" Your Tau will increase with heavier springs so I would err on the soft side with at least 6-8 turns preload dialed in to hit your sag target. Changing the shim stack is hard to avoid if you change the spring rate, maxing out clickers and even oil viscosity changes will give you digressive dampening curves and a harsh feel. Looking at the shim stack will help get rid of digressive dampening curves, and help dial in your rebound Zeta / rebound to compression ratio. Your weight means you will see huge improvements with a custom set up as opposed to the standard metric rider that will only experience comparatively small refinements. The Buses are both heavy and soft on the front from the factory. Have a look for Zeepopo2's work in the forums here for some great comments as well. Good questions sir.
 
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