Help Picking Turbo Specs for ~250hp UTV Project

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nskyline34

Registered
Have a Can-Am x3 UTV that I'm swapping a Hayabusa into for my YouTube channel, and I want to add a turbo to it eventually. But I'm starting to think that rather than do it later after I've already fabricated motor mounts and everything, that it might be wise to do it now so that I know it all fits and I dont have to redo as much later on. This turbo will never have to supply more than 300-325hp because I'm not going to tear down the engine to do everything needed to make it survive at that level. Whatever you can do on a stock pump gas 2006 engine will be fine. Only thing I MIGHT do is a spacer - but there's only about a 10% chance I'd do that even.

I need something that will be quick spooling so it has as much bottom end torque as possible (yes, I know you're never going to get torque from a 1.3L lol) since the X3 weighs just a little more than a busa does.

I'm wondering what turbo specs the RCC 1 kit is or if there are charger specs that would work better for my application then I'd really appreciate the feedback? I was thinking something like this: Basically a GT2560 or GT25/GT28 hybrid turbo? Or...?

www.ebay.com

Universal GT28 Turbocharger T04B 0.60A/R T28 0.64A/R GT28+Internal Wastegate | eBay

Universal, Great for all DIY Turbo Upgrade Projects. If a part was successfully installed, went into service, and then failed, it may be eligible for warranty repair. IMPORTANT NOTICE.
www.ebay.com

Specs:
GT28 Turbocharger

3" Inlet Diameter

Journal Bearing - Wet Float Type

Internal wastegate set at Max 25 Psi

Garrett 4 Bolt Down-Pipe Flange

T25 Flange

Oil Lube, Oil/Water Cool

Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 420hp

Compressor Wheel

0.60 A/R Cold Side

Ind: 54.00 mm

Exd: 70 mm

Trim: 60

Turbine Wheel

.64 A/R

Ind: 52.90 mm

Exd: 45.47 mm
 
You will need to lower the compression to make 325hp, no might to it.
That engine will make alot more torque than you think too.
You're going to need someone who can dyno tune it, Woolrich hardware and software to tune through the factory ecu, or talk to @smithabusa here about a Maxx Ecu setup.
You can't just bolt a turbo on and go, the air/fuel ratio has to be correct, or you'll quickly have a big boat anchor.
 
sixpack577 said:
You will need to lower the compression to make 325hp, no might to it.
That engine will make alot more torque than you think too.
You're going to need someone who can dyno tune it, Woolrich hardware and software to tune through the factory ecu, or talk to @smithabusa here about a Maxx Ecu setup.
You can't just bolt a turbo on and go, the42 air/fuel ratio has to be correct, or eeyou'll quickly have a big boat anchor.
Click to expand...
Hi. I have a Gattett G' 42-1200c with 10 to 1 race/ srreet.
 
The tuning was going to be my next question - who. I've done a lot of tuning on my own LS builds and diesels, but never a bike.

So what about the turbo size? I said the turbo will never have to supply 325 hp because I'm not going to tear it down. My power ceiling will be whatever can be made on a stock engine and/or a spacer, so 250-300hp? There will be no "oh I want to upgrade later" lol Its going to be what it is - I'm worried about the hayabusa holding up to the abuse of 2,000lbs and 4wd blitzing a set of whoops. The shock to the drivetrain of loading and unloading on those little gears will be a lot... but we will see.
 
People put Busa engines in cars regulary.
The engine can take alot more abuse that being in a utv will give it, so there are no worries that it will hold up, it will.
The Gen1 had transmission issues, with 2nd gear failing, but it was not from abuse, as an abused bike with 100k mikes may never have a problem, and a trailer queen's with 5k miles may slip in 2nd, it was more of a luck of the draw problem.
The fix for that is an undercut transmission, and split the case to install it. Not as bad as it sounds either, especially with the engine already out.
For boost, 4psi is safe, you can go a little higher and still run pump gas, but you will need a spacer.
I'm not a turbo guy, but putting together a low boost daily driver is not complicated.
However, you do Need a good air/fuel tune to start it on, and you do Need a skilled dyno operator to tune it for you.
You can data-log and tune without a dyno, but without good base-map and turbo experience, you are asking for an expensive engine melt down.
Your best bet would be to contact RCC and tell them what you want, and what parts you have already.
They can tell you what you Need, and will give you the best price on a quality kit.
It may cost you a little more up front, but will save you alot in the long run.
And, just so you are aware...you can put that bone stock Busa engine into your utv now, and have more hp and torque than you will ever need, I respectfully say that you have no idea just what it is really capable of, and the weight of the utv is a non-issue.
I suggest watching some stock Busa powered cars on youtube(cars which weigh More than your utv) and you will be amazed...adding a turbo, lol
 
nskyline34 said:
Valid point. I wasnt sure where to post it. I'll just focus on the one here I guess.
Click to expand...
Good plan, it has been my experience that more than one post leads to people ignoring one or the other.....

I personally get where you are going......wanting to cobble something together to see if it holds together.......in many ways more interesting than a clinical build which has expected results......

Should be fun.....
 
Bumblebee said:
Good plan, it has been my experience that more than one post leads to people ignoring one or the other.....

I personally get where you are going......wanting to cobble something together to see if it holds together.......in many ways more interesting than a clinical build which as expected results......

Should be fun.....
Click to expand...

...and expensive...'saving' money on turbos = spending alot more on turbos
lol
 
sixpack577 said:
People put Busa engines in cars regulary.
The engine can take alot more abuse that being in a utv will give it, so there are no worries that it will hold up, it will.
The Gen1 had transmission issues, with 2nd gear failing, but it was not from abuse, as an abused bike with 100k mikes may never have a problem, and a trailer queen's with 5k miles may slip in 2nd, it was more of a luck of the draw problem.
The fix for that is an undercut transmission, and split the case to install it. Not as bad as it sounds either, especially with the engine already out.
For boost, 4psi is safe, you can go a little higher and still run pump gas, but you will need a spacer.
I'm not a turbo guy, but putting together a low boost daily driver is not complicated.
However, you do Need a good air/fuel tune to start it on, and you do Need a skilled dyno operator to tune it for you.
You can data-log and tune without a dyno, but without good base-map and turbo experience, you are asking for an expensive engine melt down.
Your best bet would be to contact RCC and tell them what you want, and what parts you have already.
They can tell you what you Need, and will give you the best price on a quality kit.
It may cost you a little more up front, but will save you alot in the long run.
And, just so you are aware...you can put that bone stock Busa engine into your utv now, and have more hp and torque than you will ever need, I respectfully say that you have no idea just what it is really capable of, and the weight of the utv is a non-issue.
I suggest watching some stock Busa powered cars on youtube(cars which weigh More than your utv) and you will be amazed...adding a turbo, lol
Click to expand...
I didnt know that about the 2nd gear issues. Really good to know.

Stock X3 engine makes more power then the stock busa by 20hp. Also as far as the transmission being able to take the abuse I sure hope you're right. I'm literally banking on that all working out and that all of you with crazy powerful turbo bikes have tried a lot of stuff and know what they're capable of. To me there's a big difference in the level of stress put on a gear through a 2wd street car vs a 4wd off road car with 35" off road tires going from zero traction to 100% traction at WOT through a whoop section. I'm literally hanging everything on the fact that you're right! lol

One thing I didnt think about is that the RCC kit comes with a base tune already which honestly will likely be fine - not optimized, but fine for my needs. Biggest challenge is budget. They're designing a kit for a RELIABLE street bike that the customer is not going to have any issues with the kit for 50k miles. BUT I guess a phone call couldnt hurt. I want to run a ching-chong turbo so its relatable to the normal person and then I was going to fabricate the intake and exhaust and then the oil system and fuel system is easy to do. (more video content I can make with it) Just some AN lines and a boost referencing FPR and then I'm going to run an aftermarket oil cooler so I can relocate that. Also already have an intercooler. So need a gated turbo and tune mainly.
 
sixpack577 said:
...and expensive...'saving' money on turbos = spending alot more on turbos
lol
Click to expand...
But if it's for a channel and not personal use.....a turbo blowing to smithereens will draw more views so in the end will be more lucrative....

For instance how many views would a Gold Wing get running down a nice clean street as opposed to ripping it over an off road course or having it roll down a hill after falling off?
 
Bumblebee said:
But if it's for a channel and not personal use.....a turbo blowing to smithereens will draw more views so in the end will be more lucrative....

For instance how many views would a Gold Wing get running down a nice clean street as opposed to ripping it over an off road course or having it roll down a hill after falling off?
Click to expand...
BINGO!!!! I love Matt Spear - that was so entertaining - made me cringe, but I did laugh like hell lol

Part of the reason I'm running an intercooler is just in case things go south it might help catch some of the debris from the turbo before it gets to the intake.
 
Last edited:
nskyline34 said:
I didnt know that about the 2nd gear issues. Really good to know.

Stock X3 engine makes more power then the stock busa by 20hp. Also as far as the transmission being able to take the abuse I sure hope you're right. I'm literally banking on that all working out and that all of you with crazy powerful turbo bikes have tried a lot of stuff and know what they're capable of. To me there's a big difference in the level of stress put on a gear through a 2wd street car vs a 4wd off road car with 35" off road tires going from zero traction to 100% traction at WOT through a whoop section. I'm literally hanging everything on the fact that you're right! lol

One thing I didnt think about is that the RCC kit comes with a base tune already which honestly will likely be fine - not optimized, but fine for my needs. Biggest challenge is budget. They're designing a kit for a RELIABLE street bike that the customer is not going to have any issues with the kit for 50k miles. BUT I guess a phone call couldnt hurt. I want to run a ching-chong turbo so its relatable to the normal person and then I was going to fabricate the intake and exhaust and then the oil system and fuel system is easy to do. (more video content I can make with it) Just some AN lines and a boost referencing FPR and then I'm going to run an aftermarket oil cooler so I can relocate that. Also already have an intercooler. So need a gated turbo and tune mainly.
Click to expand...
Maybe you could take an X3 engine and stuff it into a Hayabusa for the next idea.....
 
Bumblebee said:
Good plan, it has been my experience that more than one post leads to people ignoring one or the other.....

I personally get where you are going......wanting to cobble something together to see if it holds together.......in many ways more interesting than a clinical build which has expected results......

Should be fun.....
Click to expand...
Basically yes, I already have my race car which gets all top of the line parts because it MUST hold together in the middle of a 400 mile desert race when its 110*F outside and I have to know that it will hold together and keep us alive. This is for entertainment. BUT if it works and holds together, then I have no problem upgrading everything and making it all done RIGHT. I'm just so nervous about the transmission holding together that I do not want to spend a lot of money on it until I can prove to myself that it will hold up.
 
Bumblebee said:
Maybe you could take an X3 engine and stuff it into a Hayabusa for the next idea.....
Click to expand...
lol Busa sounds WAAAAYYYYY too good stock to disrespect it with the annoying sound of a 990cc 3 cylinder low revving engine. Gotta have respect for the OG king of the hill motorcycle man.

One thing I have thought about though is if I DID buy an RCC kit, and this project DOESNT work out. I would have a really easy time buying a busa and putting the RCC kit on it just as a normal street bike for fun. I've hand many liter bikes, but always wanted to know what if feels like trying to hold onto a turbo busa... lol
 
nskyline34 said:
I didnt know that about the 2nd gear issues. Really good to know.

Stock X3 engine makes more power then the stock busa by 20hp. Also as far as the transmission being able to take the abuse I sure hope you're right. I'm literally banking on that all working out and that all of you with crazy powerful turbo bikes have tried a lot of stuff and know what they're capable of. To me there's a big difference in the level of stress put on a gear through a 2wd street car vs a 4wd off road car with 35" off road tires going from zero traction to 100% traction at WOT through a whoop section. I'm literally hanging everything on the fact that you're right! lol

One thing I didnt think about is that the RCC kit comes with a base tune already which honestly will likely be fine - not optimized, but fine for my needs. Biggest challenge is budget. They're designing a kit for a RELIABLE street bike that the customer is not going to have any issues with the kit for 50k miles. BUT I guess a phone call couldnt hurt. I want to run a ching-chong turbo so its relatable to the normal person and then I was going to fabricate the intake and exhaust and then the oil system and fuel system is easy to do. (more video content I can make with it) Just some AN lines and a boost referencing FPR and then I'm going to run an aftermarket oil cooler so I can relocate that. Also already have an intercooler. So need a gated turbo and tune mainly.
Click to expand...

Don't be fooled by hp numbers, that Can-Am engine has literally nothing on a Busa engine.
A stock Gen1 engine makes about 170hp and 102 lb' of torque to the wheels.
Other than random 2nd gear issues(which you may never have), the thing is bullet-proof.
It redlines over 10k rpm, and the bike is capable of 0-60mph in about 2.5 seconds, can run a quarter mile in a high 9, and with electronic limiter removed, will go over 190 mph...that Can-Am engine can't do that...even if it was in a bike.
Increasing the rear sprocket size, or going a tooth lower on the front will increase acceleration, increase torque at lower rpm's, and not take away much from top end.
If this is a utility sxs, vs a sport sxs, it is also a little top heavy.
If you plan on driving in trails, beware trees, as you will go quicker than you can stop.
The Busa engine is very docile, and you can ride or drive around all day slowly, and it'll feel like what you have, just a cruiser, but put your foot in in, lol, and it's going to come alive...quickly.
They really come to life at 6k rpm.
 
nskyline34 said:
lol Busa sounds WAAAAYYYYY too good stock to disrespect it with the annoying sound of a 990cc 3 cylinder low revving engine. Gotta have respect for the OG king of the hill motorcycle man.

One thing I have thought about though is if I DID buy an RCC kit, and this project DOESNT work out. I would have a really easy time buying a busa and putting the RCC kit on it just as a normal street bike for fun. I've hand many liter bikes, but always wanted to know what if feels like trying to hold onto a turbo busa... lol
Click to expand...

Most 1k's make around 80' lbs of torque.
The Busa's extra 25 or so makes a big difference, and the engine feels alot better.
1k's are my favorite bike, but the Busa is my favorite engine.
 
You will either never have a transmission problem, or you will need yours undercut(mail-in swap)
And an undercut transmission will handle anything that you can throw at it.
The transmission itself holding up to a sxs or car is a non-issue otherwise.
 
So what size turbo are we thinking would be good?
sixpack577 said:
You will either never have a transmission problem, or you will need yours undercut(mail-in swap)
And an undercut transmission will handle anything that you can throw at it.
The transmission itself holding up to a sxs or car is a non-issue otherwise.
Click to expand...
Not going to lie, that makes me feel a lot better knowing that theres a 'sure fire' fix kinda thing. Thank you.

What about the stock clutch in the busa? Should I do stiffer springs or....? I was also thinking it might not be a bad idea to leave some type of a 'weak link' in the system (clutch) so that it will slip before things get expensive. lol
 
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