Help, what the heck have I done?

oh, no, If I can't get this fixed before WED, I'll be bringing my TEAM GIXXER special edition :) Never work on your bike on race day!
 
Okay guys, I've PM'd SkyDivr and he wanted me to post it here as well.. Here goes.

Last night my buddy (motorcycle mechanic) was over after putting on my new tires, and decided to take it upon himself to mount my wheels as well..

When we are doing the front wheel, he starts talking about how this setup is identical in design to the Goldwing fork design. Basically it goes like this....

The left fork (brake lever side) is the side you "start" with. This is the side with the bushing on it. Tighten all the pinch bolts, then tighten the axle bolt.

Now loosen the right fork (clutch lever side) and "move" the right fork from right to left to center the rotor in the caliper.

The left fork (brake lever side) can't move from right to left due to the bushing. The right fork (clutch lever side) can move on the axle and the pinch bolts are all that hold this side in place.

So basically if anyone is getting like SkyDivr and the rotor itself is hitting the caliper, this could be the problem... Just an idea. :beerchug:
 
THANK YOU JUSTIN!!!

5 minutes after they came, installed (yes, they are offset). Heading out to local shop to get the balance checked. Crossing my fingers for tonight!

IMG_1266.jpg


IMG_1267.jpg
 
The shop that I normally balance at was closed today; took it over to Cyclegear and they checked/rebalanced FOR FREE (I put some money in their coffee fund). That was very nice of them; talked to one of them about doing trackdays.
 
ARRRGH!

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

I need a drink. When Cycle Gear rebalanced my wheel (For free) they used the wrong size tool, and crushed the oil seal against the Bearing - now bearing froze solid. Saw it tonight when torquing the rotor bolts. Now I Gotta see if I can get that seal replaced tomorrow...
 
Yes, you can replace seal only, IF i found someone that had one.

Anyway, for giggles, i mounted the wheel, with the new rotors on, and put the calpers on to see if it lines up. Apparently, I have wasted money on new rotors because it is STILL OUT OF LINE :banghead:

Below is pic of left caliper after clamping down on brakes, and pulling caliper straig off. Notice that the pads are NOT centering This is how the calper fits on the wheel.

I am at a loss. I have put on new pads, I have put on new rotors, and the freakin thing does not line up right on one side. I don't know if this just started, or if it's been going on the whole time I've owned this bike and just didnt' notice it til now. It could be several things:

1. maybe somehow the bearings are messup up inside the wheel (That means the wheel has to be completely rebuilt with new bearings; or
2. This wheel had been chromed; maybe in that process something got out of spec and it's been that way the whole time.

Regardless, I am at a total loss. I will be riding my Gixxer 1k this bash until I get this figured out.

IMG_1268.jpg
 
Can you pop the seal out and reinstall it? I've actually done just that before on a front wheel that had the same thing happen when he had it balanced. No clue if your seal is mangled up or not but his wasn't.

Either way sucks all the issues you're having. Hope you get it worked out..
 
Ok hmmm ? When it comes to things like this I'm a total novice and dummy but I do have a good fixit imagination so....
Question.
In the caliper is there separate channels/holes/tubes or something that the fluid flows thru to push each side out? If so is it possible maybe one of those fluid channels is clogged? It looks to me from a hydraulic standpoint one side has enough pressure and pushes fine but one side doesn't. So where does the loss of pressure and lack of movement come from?
If that is complete bs refer back to my first sentence :)
 
Ok hmmm ? When it comes to things like this I'm a total novice and dummy but I do have a good fixit imagination so....
Question.
In the caliper is there separate channels/holes/tubes or something that the fluid flows thru to push each side out? If so is it possible maybe one of those fluid channels is clogged? It looks to me from a hydraulic standpoint one side has enough pressure and pushes fine but one side doesn't. So where does the loss of pressure and lack of movement come from?
If that is complete bs refer back to my first sentence :)

That would not matter. The bottom line, even with the pads fully recessed and the rotor spinning free in the caliper, it does not line up in the center of the caliper like it should, but instead off to one side. The pads just form to where the rotor is.
 
OK, but look close. it changed meaning something's moving around. Might be a dumb question, but after installing the wheel but before you tighten the pinch bolts you are bouncing the front end to settle everything in right? Is there play in the fork leg allowing it to move easily side to side?
 
OK, but look close. it changed meaning something's moving around. Might be a dumb question, but after installing the wheel but before you tighten the pinch bolts you are bouncing the front end to settle everything in right? Is there play in the fork leg allowing it to move easily side to side?

To make it line up, either the fork/caliper on the left side has to move OUT, or the wheel/bearing/rotor distance has to get SMALLER on that side to get the rotor to center. Once you tighten the axle, there would be/is no play. There is a fixed width (spacer/bearing/wheel/bearing/axel) between the forks. No amount of pinch bolts is going to keep that axel bolt from tightening up or spread apart to other than that fixed distance.

Because this wheel was chromed, there could be a) an obstruction inside the wheel that is keeping the bearing on that side from full seating (the error is on one side only), or the surface where the rotor goes has been coated enough in the chrome process that the rotor seats 1/16 further out than it should be. Like I said, this may have been going on since I've had the bike and I never noticed it.
 
What I'm hitting at is it changed. In your photo the pads are out 1/16" (A guess but that's probably reasonably close.) compared to before when it was actually touching. Considering that the rotors are flat and should not be any different with regard to offest something changed from when it was rubbing to now. I just double checked the manual, the left side of the axel floats in the left fork leg and is secured by the pinch bolts. The axel bolts the wheel solid against the right fork leg, that caliper distance will never change but the left side can change quite a bit depending on how the axel drags against the clamping area of the fork leg.

Make sure the left pinch bolts are loose, set the tire on the ground and compress the suspension a few times. Then see if the caliper moves in relation to the rotor. If it doesn't then if we ever meet I'll give you a dollar.
 
I think you have already tried this, but hold the good side and pump the brakes to see if the pistons move out on the bad side. If they do it looks like the only thing you have left to do is rebuild the caliper.

If the Gen 1 wheels will mount on the gen 2 I will ride over one weekend and we can swap out our front wheels to see if the wheel is your problem with the bent rotor. After finishing my fork seals last night I thought about you and spun my wheel in the air, my rotor is straight.

Something is going on and it will probably be a huge DUH! moment when you and everyone on the org finds out what it is.
 
Back
Top