After seeing quite a few members on here installing the hid kit, it got me interested in doing the mod. How difficult is the install? Do u have to remove both fairings, windscreen, gauges, chin skirt under nose. Do u have to completely remove the nose housing the head light. I really want to do it, but nervous tearing the bike apart that much. I get worried just doing an oil change that i might brake something on the fender. After the bike is torn apart, is it just plug and play connections. Any negative effects of running an hid kit w/ballast. I read sometimes it can mess up the gauges, and u should start the bike differently so the ballast isn't powering up so much. What about the bulbs, do most just do the low beam, or both? Sorry for so many questions, just trying to get as much info as possible to decide if i should do it
HID install, how hard is it?
- Thread starter hemi
- Start date
No it isnt hard to do! Windshield, dash panels, and move some wiring depending on the year busa you have. Here is a few links!
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...as-new-granny-blinders-genii-hid-install.html
DDM 35W & 55W Single Motorcycle HID System: DDM Tuning - HID Kits, DEPO Lights, BMW & Porsche Lighting & Bumpers
When ordering a kit you need to order one for each bulb type you have!
Gen 1's take H7 (one kit) and H5 (one kit) total of 2
Gen 2's take H7 (one kit) and H9 (one kit) total of 2
35 watt kit with a 6k bulb will work great! Got them both on my 08 busa and now the 09 1k!
55 watt is over kill!
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/108811-h-i-d-s-install-my-08-hayabusa.html
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...as-new-granny-blinders-genii-hid-install.html
DDM 35W & 55W Single Motorcycle HID System: DDM Tuning - HID Kits, DEPO Lights, BMW & Porsche Lighting & Bumpers
When ordering a kit you need to order one for each bulb type you have!
Gen 1's take H7 (one kit) and H5 (one kit) total of 2
Gen 2's take H7 (one kit) and H9 (one kit) total of 2
35 watt kit with a 6k bulb will work great! Got them both on my 08 busa and now the 09 1k!
55 watt is over kill!
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/108811-h-i-d-s-install-my-08-hayabusa.html
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
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Like the Nike commercial 'Just do it' !
We are here to help .
Have any probs just ask .
Not hard at all .
WarbirdII already posted my thread but he's the one who deserves credit as it was he who helped me do it .
If I can you can FOR SURE !
We are here to help .
Have any probs just ask .
Not hard at all .
WarbirdII already posted my thread but he's the one who deserves credit as it was he who helped me do it .
If I can you can FOR SURE !
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busa03chatt
Registered
I just installed a low beam kit from Bombay Motorsports 6k. It is a plug and play set up. Small ballast thats easy to hide.
Had to take the nose off. Its not bad. You might want to change the small running lights as well, if not they look yellow after turning the HID on. I bought two white LED bulbs at PepBoys to replace the stock ones about 9 bucks. Took about two hours total.
Had to take the nose off. Its not bad. You might want to change the small running lights as well, if not they look yellow after turning the HID on. I bought two white LED bulbs at PepBoys to replace the stock ones about 9 bucks. Took about two hours total.
memphistn3000
Registered
Yeap easy as pie. Just follow Blanca's thread and you will get it done. I didnt have to remove my windscreen though.(i hate doing that)
GOOD LUCK
GOOD LUCK
Both gen 1 and gen 2 dont require the nose to come off! On a gen 1 each slim ballast can be mounted on each left and right ram air tube. On the Gen 2 you need to mount it on the right ram air tube! Gen 2 has fuse box and wiring on the left ram air tube and there isnt enough room to mount it nicely! Yes as listed above... Pep boys carries the white 199 LEDS to replace the standard 199 bulb. So does Auto Zone! (Advance Auto Parts NO!)
Here is the deal with the low and high beam! If you like to flash to pass then stay regular halogen 55w bulb. However I run high and low during the day and .....when I can with no cars at night. But you lose the flash to pass... however... if you run both low and high... or just low.. you can thumb the starter button which will cut out the lights together which would simulate a flash to pass... not recommended at night though!
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
A Gen 1 I did a year and a 1/2 ago!
A Gen 1 I did a year and a 1/2 ago!
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Agreed on the nose not needing to come off .
I think those that did installed their ballasts onto the inside of nose itself and not on ramair tubes ?
Maybe ? not sure.
But no need for nose removal .
I think the mod I did that to me made the best cosmetic change in appearance were the Pazzo levers .
In five minutes taking off oem silver ones and replacing with Black Pazzos really changed how she looks but the most satisfying mod I have done is the HIDs cuz I did it myself .
Really satisfying to reap the fruits of my labor.
I think those that did installed their ballasts onto the inside of nose itself and not on ramair tubes ?
Maybe ? not sure.
But no need for nose removal .
I think the mod I did that to me made the best cosmetic change in appearance were the Pazzo levers .
In five minutes taking off oem silver ones and replacing with Black Pazzos really changed how she looks but the most satisfying mod I have done is the HIDs cuz I did it myself .
Really satisfying to reap the fruits of my labor.
More info for you to read!
you don't want to go with the 4300 on the low beam as it is the same color as the sun...if you are riding with the sun at your back, oncoming traffic will not see your headlight...i went with the 6000 low beam which is slightly bluish to attract the attention of other drivers and the 4300 high beam for maximum lighting at night when riding in the country...it has made all the difference
HID info
Colors:
Color is important, 4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".
3000K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light. 3000K emits GOLDEN YELLOW color and offers superior penetration power during adverse weather epically in dense fog. The applications of the 3000K kit aim more towards secondary lighting apparatus such as high beam and fog lights. The 3000K capsule is actually a 5000K capsule specially coated with a film that filters out all the wave length except the range of wave length which emits yellow.
4300K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and is the color temperature with the most output. The light appears fairly white, and has light yellowish hue when reflected off the road identical to the OEM HID equipped vehicles. This color is for customers who is looking for pure performance white improving the looks of their headlight. It is idea for customers who does a lot of back road or canyon driving and need the optimal visibility.
6000K has an approximately 2800lm output, which is 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 5000K. Although it has a bit lesser light output, it emits pure whiter light with very slight and barely noticeable tint of blue.
8000K has an approximately 2550lm output, which is about 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 6000K. While it has a bit lesser light output, it emits bluer light than the 6000K.
Power consumption:
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb. They are the perfect option for bikes with weak generators that need more light. Using higher wattage halogens will not equal the power these produce, and higher wattage halogens produce alot of glare and light scatter.
Legality:
HID conversions are not technically legal in the US, but neither is speeding, or using "race only" pipes on a bike, so take that into consideration when making your purchase.
Will they blind other drivers?
If properly installed and aimed they will not. Actually I have been flashed less since installing and properly aiming them than I did with the stock bulbs. The only time I was flashed was on a turn when it pointed the light directly at an oncoming car. With the stocks lights I had to raise the beam slightly for better vision, with the HIDs I use factory spec settings. Remember, it is imperative to properly aim your lights, as the output is much more than stock.
What separates genuine Xenon gas-filled Bulbs from Xenon HID?
HID (High Intensity Discharge) is the technology in which the filament of the Halogen Bulb is replaced with Xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas generates an arc of light. The Xenon gas generates 3x more light than standard halogen Bulbs. Most companies do produce gas-filled halogen Bulbs. These Bulbs do consist of a filament, but the gas gives off a bluer color. The negative part of xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.
How long will the Bulbs last?
An average of 2500 hours is normal from bulb testing. But, most will outlast your ownership of the bike you install them on.... Hope this helps!
you don't want to go with the 4300 on the low beam as it is the same color as the sun...if you are riding with the sun at your back, oncoming traffic will not see your headlight...i went with the 6000 low beam which is slightly bluish to attract the attention of other drivers and the 4300 high beam for maximum lighting at night when riding in the country...it has made all the difference
HID info
Colors:
Color is important, 4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".
3000K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light. 3000K emits GOLDEN YELLOW color and offers superior penetration power during adverse weather epically in dense fog. The applications of the 3000K kit aim more towards secondary lighting apparatus such as high beam and fog lights. The 3000K capsule is actually a 5000K capsule specially coated with a film that filters out all the wave length except the range of wave length which emits yellow.
4300K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and is the color temperature with the most output. The light appears fairly white, and has light yellowish hue when reflected off the road identical to the OEM HID equipped vehicles. This color is for customers who is looking for pure performance white improving the looks of their headlight. It is idea for customers who does a lot of back road or canyon driving and need the optimal visibility.
6000K has an approximately 2800lm output, which is 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 5000K. Although it has a bit lesser light output, it emits pure whiter light with very slight and barely noticeable tint of blue.
8000K has an approximately 2550lm output, which is about 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 6000K. While it has a bit lesser light output, it emits bluer light than the 6000K.
Power consumption:
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb. They are the perfect option for bikes with weak generators that need more light. Using higher wattage halogens will not equal the power these produce, and higher wattage halogens produce alot of glare and light scatter.
Legality:
HID conversions are not technically legal in the US, but neither is speeding, or using "race only" pipes on a bike, so take that into consideration when making your purchase.
Will they blind other drivers?
If properly installed and aimed they will not. Actually I have been flashed less since installing and properly aiming them than I did with the stock bulbs. The only time I was flashed was on a turn when it pointed the light directly at an oncoming car. With the stocks lights I had to raise the beam slightly for better vision, with the HIDs I use factory spec settings. Remember, it is imperative to properly aim your lights, as the output is much more than stock.
What separates genuine Xenon gas-filled Bulbs from Xenon HID?
HID (High Intensity Discharge) is the technology in which the filament of the Halogen Bulb is replaced with Xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas generates an arc of light. The Xenon gas generates 3x more light than standard halogen Bulbs. Most companies do produce gas-filled halogen Bulbs. These Bulbs do consist of a filament, but the gas gives off a bluer color. The negative part of xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.
How long will the Bulbs last?
An average of 2500 hours is normal from bulb testing. But, most will outlast your ownership of the bike you install them on.... Hope this helps!
No, if they were fine before install most likely they will be afterward.
I have not adjusted mine .
and to adj them is not hard at all .
blanca, is this the exact hid kit u got DDM 35W & 55W Single Motorcycle HID Kit: HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning, one with an h7 bulb and one with an h9 bulb. Did u get the 6000. Want to make sure i get the right one if i do buy it
That is the one and I wish they would make up their minds on $.
I paid like 29.99 months ago , last week for a short time they were 17.95 and now back to 25 bucks but yes thats de one ~
yes on all other questions.
Same as Blanca's HID setup! 1 h7 kit (35 watt) and 1 h9 kit (35 watt), both 6k bulbs! After one year of use... no issues! You most likely will not have to adjust them unless you raise or lower your bike! I adjusted mine since I went 1" up in the rear.
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Nope... no fairing removal needed
Remove windshield.... remove lower dash panel to speedo...Then the side panels and top speedo panel. Remove speedo cluster. Lay towel on triple tree to avoid scratching the speedo face when moving it forward to disconnect the instrument cluster. Then you will have access to the low and high beam connectors and bulbs!
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AGAIN AGREED .
After I did mine I realized I could have done it without taking side fairings off.
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