HID Install questions..

[mjn]

Yea, yea... I know, use the "search" function.

I did. Some great info in there... but some I've got a problem with, hence this thread.

I am installing a 5K HID low beam in my '05. Got it from my buddy BABUSA.

Here are my issues;

Ballast and igniter. Many here have said "put it on the RHS intake tube". The issue I see with that is it will make the removal of the nose piece a real pain in the backside as there are no easy ways to unplug it once it is installed..the ballast will be on the bike, but attached to the nose via hardwires.
One or two of you have mounted the ballast and igniter inside the nose piece. This is what I'm planning on doing... see pic;

The nose piece is upside down on my bench here... bottom is top, right is left..I have added one support bar to the ballast (to the right in pic), since it'll be hanging upside down. I'm not all that confident that the doubleside tape will hold it in place.......I like to do wheelies once in awhile.. I'm not as worried about the igniter..

closer view of the support bar (not yet attached to the screw)

My concern with using this area for mounting, is the possibility of electronics interruption.... I've heard (read) of clocks quitting etc... Does putting the two boxes here make that more of an issue?

I took some flat plexiglass and made two washers (two because one wasn't thick enough) to make the bulb fit tightly under the OE spring, but what kind of sealant should be used around the included grommet (that does not fit properly into the OE dustcap)?

The included plug, as has been said, is useless..

What is the proper way to seal out the dirt/H2O etc..when plugging the two connnectors directly into the OE plug? See below;

And lastly... I would like to install an on-off switch. Reading the comments, it looks like a good idea.. Someone said they'd used the "yellow" wire from this loom..

But it appears to me that the yellow wire goes to the high beam.. shouldn't I be cutting into the white or black wires?....they seem to be the two that end up at the low beam...


Whew!

Thanks in advance for your help!!!:bigsmile:

 

[thebbbusa]

put the switch on the white or black wire in this pic. That's where you're getting your power from anyway, and it's already open. Put the switch on one of those lines, then reconnect to the original connector. I wrapped this area with several winds of electrical tape.

Mount the ballasts wherever you want, I mounted mine to the RHS air tube, and it really isn't a big deal taking the nose off, considering how much work is involved taking the nose off, and the frequency with which it is done.

 

[GoAWOL]

This is my only complaint to the "plug and play" HID kit. If it were truly PNP you wouldn't have high volts going through open leads. Anywho, I wrapped this area with electrical tape and put some heat shrink tubing over it to ensure it was sealed from the weather and whatever bad things that may cause a short here.

 

[thebbbusa]

This is my only complaint to the "plug and play" HID kit. If it were truly PNP you wouldn't have high volts going through open leads. Anywho, I wrapped this area with electrical tape and put some heat shrink tubing over it to ensure it was sealed from the weather and whatever bad things that may cause a short here.

At this point, it's just 12VDC, it hasn't gotten to the ballast yet. Everything after this point is P&P.

 

[GoAWOL]

At this point, it's just 12VDC, it hasn't gotten to the ballast yet. Everything after this point is P&P.

Not sure what you're trying to say here....either its plug n play or its not. Open electrical leads on a 10k bike is not plug n play.

At any rate, the advice remains the same...cover them up as best possible.

 

[thebbbusa]

Not sure what you're trying to say here....either its plug n play or its not. Open electrical leads on a 10k bike is not plug n play.

At any rate, the advice remains the same...cover them up as best possible.

I was referring to your comment about high voltage, expressing that at this point, it is low voltage. And that there really isn't a need to worry about 25000V running through the 'open' connectors...in case you were concerned about it.

Sure, it's a 10k bike, ...and it didn't come with HID either. So unless you can find a company that makes the other end of that connector, this is as plug and play as it gets, short of cutting off the connector and putting your own on. I am not sure, but I would venture to say there may not even be a connector that fits that plug, as it's purpose is to connect to the back of a light bulb. Perhaps there is a market for a connector for this mod. Maybe there's some money there.

I think it would be a bit much for the HID makers to have a connector for every motorcycle, scooter, car, truck, bus...and so on.

 

[Powers739]

I recommend the DEI T528 (or something like that) time delay relay. You can set it from 0-90secs. That way you can start the bike and it will have time delay until it he low beam turns on.

I bought my relays for about $25 on ebay...

 

[mjn]

put the switch on the white or black wire in this pic. That's where you're getting your power from anyway, and it's already open. Put the switch on one of those lines, then reconnect to the original connector. I wrapped this area with several winds of electrical tape.

Yea....I am a dork.

Rich (BABUSA) called me... "hey dummy.... ever used a test light?"

Holy smoke.....

I feel really stupid now.

I found the wire.

 

[BusaWizard]

I used a switch and relay on mine.