How to install lowering links?
- Thread starter nodnil
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Freechance
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Well if the nut is messed up any way..
I have beat a smaller socket on it to remove it..but that only works sometimes..
I have beat a smaller socket on it to remove it..but that only works sometimes..
Isn't that a self locking nut? Turn the bolt head and use a backup on the nut. WD-40 wont help you.
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LE.BUSA06
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I have the same problem with my Hayabusa. I just tried to remove my stock link and will install soupy's link but the nut was rounding off. I also bought some stuff on autozone they said will loosen it but still not even moving it. Do you need to use rear stand first before loosening it or just the side stand first? do you need rear stand and jack the middle by the oil drain plug then loosen? Any idea on what we can do to remove this? Thank you in advance.
piratediverjefff
Registered
Installed some on mine a few months back,not too bad but those nuts holding the links in place were a ***** to get loose(if i remember right they're Loctited on and you have to hold the bolt head while undoing the nut,think i had to use a breaker bar to bust the nuts loose).
Anyone know where I can get standard links for my 2007 1st gen Busa? Currently my bike is lowered and I love the look of it, but when i ride doubled up on the bike it bottoms out :-(. I just bottomed out last week and the bottom belly fairing screw popped a hole in my mid pipe. So now I gotta figure out how I wanna fix the leak and I have no idea how to raise her back up. I noticed there is an aftermarket rear lowering link but I don't know how to see if they did anything to the front???? Help please lol
Mythos
Registered
I'm having the same problem as these guys did although no stripped bolts yet.
A socket definitely won't fit on the nut because the exhaust is in the way. There's not even enough space to get a box end wrench on the nut. Solution: Wrench bolt head on opposite side of bike, hold nut with an open end wedged with a 3/4" board. Seems like it should work although I fear the nut might strip just being held with an open end (you know how they have a little slop and it will only grab 2 points).
Gave it a try with a breaker bar and 14mm socket. I heard a crick. Then another crick. YIPPEEEE! Then the bolt felt funny. Did I twist the bolt head off??? I didn't pull that hard!
No. Maybe I should consider myself fortunate. It was the socket. I don't think the bolt or the nut even budged.
OK, buy a set of small impact sockets. No problem. That's what I should have used in the first place. Lesson learned. Yep a regular ratchet socket will split on a really tight bolt. ...but how should I get these bolts out?
Is it ok to turn the bolt instead of the nut or should I take my exhaust off just so I can turn the nut on the RH side?
Should I use an impact? I have no electricity at the &*^&$% storage unit. Cordless?
A socket definitely won't fit on the nut because the exhaust is in the way. There's not even enough space to get a box end wrench on the nut. Solution: Wrench bolt head on opposite side of bike, hold nut with an open end wedged with a 3/4" board. Seems like it should work although I fear the nut might strip just being held with an open end (you know how they have a little slop and it will only grab 2 points).
Gave it a try with a breaker bar and 14mm socket. I heard a crick. Then another crick. YIPPEEEE! Then the bolt felt funny. Did I twist the bolt head off??? I didn't pull that hard!
No. Maybe I should consider myself fortunate. It was the socket. I don't think the bolt or the nut even budged.
OK, buy a set of small impact sockets. No problem. That's what I should have used in the first place. Lesson learned. Yep a regular ratchet socket will split on a really tight bolt. ...but how should I get these bolts out?
Is it ok to turn the bolt instead of the nut or should I take my exhaust off just so I can turn the nut on the RH side?
Should I use an impact? I have no electricity at the &*^&$% storage unit. Cordless?
Dopey
Registered
I used an impact and a 14mm snap on impact swivel to get mine off.
Dopey
Registered
I broke the nut loose, can't say I needed to secure the bolt but I did have a hold of it with brake bar
Mythos
Registered
OH boy. Looks like I'll have to take the whole exhaust off up the headers then. No way any kind of a socket will fit over that nut. I can't even get a wrench between the exhaust and the nut unless I grind one down thinner.
IDK if it matters whether you wrench the bolt or the nut.
Thank you Dopey.
IDK if it matters whether you wrench the bolt or the nut.
Thank you Dopey.
Mathewrussell52
Registered
When I did mine it already had a turbo so exhaust was not a issue. But used a box end one one side and breaker bar on other side. Not sure what side. Stupid how tight these things are.
Whenever possible,un-do the nut. Several reasons: Bolts can be frozen by way of the weight they are supporting,or rust/corrosion and sometimes the bolt is threaded into the part and the nut is only on there for safety.An example would be the bolt that holds brake and clutch levers to the perch. I have fixed these for people who removed the nut,then took a hammer to the bolt trying to remove it not knowing it was threaded in.This [bolt threaded in] is sort of a rare thing in the mechanical world,but it is used.
If you only have simple tools,you could have tried to pull the exhaust to the side just enough to get a box end wrench on the nut.Then a pipe onto the wrench for leverage. No pipe? Use the 2 wrench trick. With the box end on the nut,you hook a second wrench (box end) onto the open end of the first.No room for that? Hit it with a persuader (hammer). Heating the nut with a 20 dollar torch works too.
Your cheesy [no offence] socket failed because you tried it on the bolt head and also you applied torque to it from a 1/2 drive Johnson bar to a 3/8 socket via that reducer. Cant tell for sure from your pic,might be 3/8 to 1/4 which would never work.Impacts are the way to roll.I have a cordless impact with huge torque. Most of them would not even budge a bolt in this application,mine might.
There are several ways to work "in the field" with impact tools and no electricity. Easiest way for folks that don't want to spend a ton on a compressor and all its attachments is a 120V 1/2 drive impact wrench,plugged into your cars 12V accessory port via a 50 dolla inverter.(converts 12V to 120V) Cant get your car close enough? Take just a 12V automotive or better yet,a freshly charged deep-cycle marine battery. I used to carry one of those.Great for camping.Power all the stuff in yer car/rv leaving the battery under the hood to start you up when its time to split. The other way is an old BBQ propane tank with an air hook-up instead of the propane outlet.(easy to modify) I use this to fill flat tires on the road,but it also gives you a few hits on an' impact gun. Just some tid-bits,
Rubb.
If you only have simple tools,you could have tried to pull the exhaust to the side just enough to get a box end wrench on the nut.Then a pipe onto the wrench for leverage. No pipe? Use the 2 wrench trick. With the box end on the nut,you hook a second wrench (box end) onto the open end of the first.No room for that? Hit it with a persuader (hammer). Heating the nut with a 20 dollar torch works too.
Your cheesy [no offence] socket failed because you tried it on the bolt head and also you applied torque to it from a 1/2 drive Johnson bar to a 3/8 socket via that reducer. Cant tell for sure from your pic,might be 3/8 to 1/4 which would never work.Impacts are the way to roll.I have a cordless impact with huge torque. Most of them would not even budge a bolt in this application,mine might.
There are several ways to work "in the field" with impact tools and no electricity. Easiest way for folks that don't want to spend a ton on a compressor and all its attachments is a 120V 1/2 drive impact wrench,plugged into your cars 12V accessory port via a 50 dolla inverter.(converts 12V to 120V) Cant get your car close enough? Take just a 12V automotive or better yet,a freshly charged deep-cycle marine battery. I used to carry one of those.Great for camping.Power all the stuff in yer car/rv leaving the battery under the hood to start you up when its time to split. The other way is an old BBQ propane tank with an air hook-up instead of the propane outlet.(easy to modify) I use this to fill flat tires on the road,but it also gives you a few hits on an' impact gun. Just some tid-bits,
Rubb.
Mythos
Registered
There's a great solution!!! I just need to install a turbo!!!
Some day!Yeah, especially because the head of the nut and bolt both are sort of low profile with the flange they each have. The cushion lever (that thing between the tie rods and the bottom mount of the shock) both call for 56 ft lbs but add to that the self locking nut and a little corrosion and it's about 200 ft lb to bust it loose.
The rear end is up in the air with no rear wheel on it so it's only the weight of the swing arm that could be loading the bolt. I doubt it's threaded in but I will find out soon....I hope.
If you only have simple tools,you could have tried to pull the exhaust to the side just enough to get a box end wrench on the nut.Then a pipe onto the wrench for leverage.
The exhaust might flex aside enough if I remove the hanger bolt under the engine. Maybe I would need to unbolt the muffler hanger too.
Your cheesy [no offence] socket failed because you tried it on the bolt head and also you applied torque to it from a 1/2 drive Johnson bar to a 3/8 socket via that reducer.
It was a Taiwan special but I put a lot of torque on it, maybe 160 ft lb. Yes, the socket was a 3/8' drive and the bar is 1/2". That set of adapters I have has saved me a lot of money in the past but it's time I expand my collection of sockets.
That was the best set of gems I've heard in a long time, rubb. Thanks. I will try pulling aside the muffler tomorrow. I definitely need a 6 point box end wrench for this though.
No worries. How is the rear end "up in the air?" If the tire is off the ground via a rear race stand,then the suspension is still "loaded." Even if the rear of the bike is hanging from something say the ceiling,via the sub-frame the suspension is still loaded.Its being pulled apart instead of pushed together.
This is kind of important: The weight of the bike is on those dog bones.You have to have the weight of the rear end supported while removing the links PLUS the bike itself needs secondary support. The weight of all your bike is all on those bolts you are removing.You need to support the bike by the frame.If I am not making perfect sense to you,read the manual. I'm sure there will be room for a box end once you have loosened the attachment points you mentioned.
Rubb.
This is kind of important: The weight of the bike is on those dog bones.You have to have the weight of the rear end supported while removing the links PLUS the bike itself needs secondary support. The weight of all your bike is all on those bolts you are removing.You need to support the bike by the frame.If I am not making perfect sense to you,read the manual. I'm sure there will be room for a box end once you have loosened the attachment points you mentioned.
Rubb.
Berlin Germany
Registered
@rubbersidedown
and
@Mythos
to change the rods (generally) the best way to get space for the tools (and the torque at the end - the nuts/bolts need 95 Nm!)
is to dismantle both mufflers incl. their two pipes.
i did this job, i guess, 2 dozen times now when two end pipes were installed at both gen1 and gen2 - both are "equal".
at a 4in1 exhaust it can! be done without taking the entire exhaust off but
you have to put out the one muffler bolt
and you then need to impact a lots of power to bend the ex-pipe down a bit to wrench the bolt / nut.
and YES @ rubb - if never done before / no experiences with that job - see, read and follow the damn manual line by line !
__________________________________________
my opinion / mind apart from all kinds of tastes
who the heck makes a bike lower in the rear (and then alone this)?
yes the fairing is scratching the ground very soon and the loss of agility is horrible.
and if one likes the look of peter fonda´s bike in "easy rider" then get another frame and put in there the busa´s engine.
only for quarter mile races or so a rear lowering can make sence, but a front lowering, at same time, so much more
so why the heck are those kind of racers usually strapping down the front to block the fork???
dears - seriously - lowering the rear (and front) is in my engineers view technically a total nonsense for any use at all other roads then 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 or 1 mile tracks.
and
@Mythos
to change the rods (generally) the best way to get space for the tools (and the torque at the end - the nuts/bolts need 95 Nm!)
is to dismantle both mufflers incl. their two pipes.
i did this job, i guess, 2 dozen times now when two end pipes were installed at both gen1 and gen2 - both are "equal".
at a 4in1 exhaust it can! be done without taking the entire exhaust off but
you have to put out the one muffler bolt
and you then need to impact a lots of power to bend the ex-pipe down a bit to wrench the bolt / nut.
and YES @ rubb - if never done before / no experiences with that job - see, read and follow the damn manual line by line !
__________________________________________
my opinion / mind apart from all kinds of tastes
who the heck makes a bike lower in the rear (and then alone this)?
yes the fairing is scratching the ground very soon and the loss of agility is horrible.
and if one likes the look of peter fonda´s bike in "easy rider" then get another frame and put in there the busa´s engine.
only for quarter mile races or so a rear lowering can make sence, but a front lowering, at same time, so much more
so why the heck are those kind of racers usually strapping down the front to block the fork???
dears - seriously - lowering the rear (and front) is in my engineers view technically a total nonsense for any use at all other roads then 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 or 1 mile tracks.
Berlin Germany
Registered
and @ all screw-turners
all sizes at the busa are metric - never forget!
so, for best working at all japs/european bikes, buy at very first all wrenches and ratchet boxes in metric sizes from craftsman, snapon or similar in quality!
needed sizes:
8-32 mm wrenches and nuts
plus a 36 mm nut for the rear axle and the front sprockets nut
avoid , like devil the holy water , the cheap crap from the houseware store around the corner.
otherwise you will definitely fail massively at some point!
the bolt´s head at the swing arm links, i guess, is 14 and the nut´s size is 17 mm (millimeters!!!!!)
inch sized tools can/will wreck/round the bolts / nuts at some point and will you get pi$$ed.
the nuts at the links have two self securing metal halved rings inside - no! thread lock (loctite or so) is needed (same kind of self securing nuts you can find elsewhere at the bike also)
these nuts are reusable hundreds times without losing their function.
use thread lock only where the manual prescribes!
sometimes the threads are rusted together - then anti rust spray plus some heat (1200°C hot air dryer) and lots of patience CAN! help - in the very end no other way was to cut, how ever, the nut off, buy a new bolt´n nut-pair at suzuki and end the job that way.
all sizes at the busa are metric - never forget!
so, for best working at all japs/european bikes, buy at very first all wrenches and ratchet boxes in metric sizes from craftsman, snapon or similar in quality!
needed sizes:
8-32 mm wrenches and nuts
plus a 36 mm nut for the rear axle and the front sprockets nut
avoid , like devil the holy water , the cheap crap from the houseware store around the corner.
otherwise you will definitely fail massively at some point!
the bolt´s head at the swing arm links, i guess, is 14 and the nut´s size is 17 mm (millimeters!!!!!)
inch sized tools can/will wreck/round the bolts / nuts at some point and will you get pi$$ed.
the nuts at the links have two self securing metal halved rings inside - no! thread lock (loctite or so) is needed (same kind of self securing nuts you can find elsewhere at the bike also)
these nuts are reusable hundreds times without losing their function.
use thread lock only where the manual prescribes!
sometimes the threads are rusted together - then anti rust spray plus some heat (1200°C hot air dryer) and lots of patience CAN! help - in the very end no other way was to cut, how ever, the nut off, buy a new bolt´n nut-pair at suzuki and end the job that way.
Berlin Germany
Registered
uuuuuuuuuuuh what i forgot
when ever one is "fumbling" around that area
PLEASE pull ALL bolts every 4-5 years to clean deep and re-grease ALL the roller bearings
those in the swing arm too
yes u understood correctly - the grease inside the bearings won´t last longer than these 4-5 years.
and yes again - havin´ a bike means a life long lasting repeated maintenance.
when ever one is "fumbling" around that area
PLEASE pull ALL bolts every 4-5 years to clean deep and re-grease ALL the roller bearings
those in the swing arm too
yes u understood correctly - the grease inside the bearings won´t last longer than these 4-5 years.
and yes again - havin´ a bike means a life long lasting repeated maintenance.
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