HW's Inaugural Maintenance

I removed the left muffler, the rear belly pan, unbolted the rectifier bracket and hung that out of the way. I did not want to disconnect it and cut all the cable ties if that is not necessary.

I tried a socket on the shock bolt but there is no room for it. I put a box wrench on it and pulled a bit but did not get any movement. I see a white dot, and think that indicates it is torqued to spec, but do these have thread lock? I applied penetrating oil to both shock bolts and all the joints on the bolt on top. Is this going to help? I think this is the scariest thing per the horror stories here of breaking frames.

Why is there a pipe clamp on the muffler pipe about six inches from the muffler? There is no joint there! Is it holding something between the pipe and the heat shield behind it?
 
I have clarity now. I need to remove the cushion link for access to the shock nut and I can see all of that can be removed with the bike on the stand.

I am stuck on the shock for now. For a 50 ft-lb bolt I need to use a longer wrench, ergo my 1/2" wrench or a breaker. Except for wheel sockets in 1/2", the rest are 3/8", and that has worked for everything up until the suspension. I did however prepare for this as I ordered a 1/2" internal to 3/8" male adapter on the 27th of November. It shows a status of shipped on November 30th but with no tracking number. Thus someone messed up yet another order status. This part has either got the classic COVID back-order problem or they merely lost track of it. I will find out with an inquiry.

When I am doing this work diligently in the minimal time that I have available it is disappointing to have the project backed up due to this kind of service from Snap-On. Although I had an inkling that I should have gone into the clutch instead this weekend. Always go with your instinct, that is free information given from above...
 
Have you tried alternate cable ties? Or are standard ties the perfect solution?

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This had been on my radar and I thank you greatly as I knew from the forum that this would be the max height to prevent having to do other changes .

Soon after this post I ordered the same bar. @911f you got the last one methinks. I got an estimate for it to be made which fell in December. They went on Christmas break within that delivery time and provided no status, and it was not made. I am getting updates now. It has been made and will be coated next.

The 1/2"-3/8" socket adapter I ordered on the 27th of November: After an inquiry and a request to refund shipping, Snap-On refunded the shipping charge and sent the adaptor out. Cheers to them.

As for my responsibility I have not touched the bike due to life's challenges but I hope to do so soon.
 
The bike is on the Skylift. I have a jack available. I did use it for a little upward pressure on the right side of frame, unknowing if that is good or bad.

I removed the shock linkage bolt nuts. I could not move the bolts. I punched them part of the way out. The left linkage is pushed out nearly to the left frame. Both bolts are in it. The top bolt is nearly at the frame. It appears that the bolt head would not clear the frame. There is plenty of room for the bottom bolt but I do not know how to pull it out. I see what I think are spacers coming partially out of the cushion lever.

How to get these two bolts out? Have I excessively stressed the bolts or cushion lever intervals?

I am unclear if the shock wants support but there is not room for a jack due to the Skylift frame.
 
on the right side of frame
the bolt head would not clear the frame.

Swingarm rather...

Also, I can see that if I load the swingarm I would get more clearance on the bottom bolt. But doing so only rotates the bike on the Skylift.

I left out that I loosened the top shock bolt but I did not pull it. I wonder if pulling it will drop the shock and provide help but I think it was last in the manual's procedure sequence.
 
I am reading personal instructions on some of these bikes that one should loosen these bolts then lift the rear tire slightly. I have no front or rear on and cannot get compression unless I mount them both. At least I think that the bike will swing around the swingarm with no stop with merely the rear on. The fork is rebuilt but I did not want to put together the front until brake work was done due to the caustic fluid. I am starting to bet I have to at least mount the wheels to continue with the shock.
 
I am reading personal instructions on some of these bikes that one should loosen these bolts then lift the rear tire slightly. I have no front or rear on and cannot get compression unless I mount them both. At least I think that the bike will swing around the swingarm with no stop with merely the rear on. The fork is rebuilt but I did not want to put together the front until brake work was done due to the caustic fluid. I am starting to bet I have to at least mount the wheels to continue with the shock.

I just saw this; did you get it done?
 
What's left to do on your Busa and Honda now?

A long list.

The VFR has been in the mechanic’s hands for two years. Either he has to begin on it or admit he cannot make the time and I can start on it next. The fork is scored by sand and is binding, that was the main impetus, but there is a list of other items.

Next on the busa I have to mount tires, mount the fork and wheels, and lower it to load the rear to get the shock bolts fully out.
 
I am trying to get some of the year's vacation in December and get back to the Hayabusa.

Sadly I keep thinking of the stator job which is done. Installed the Woodcraft due to the side stand accident. I put a small bead of RTV around the wires at the exit on the inside. I perpetually see nightmares of sealant destroying engines. From my memory, looking at the cover the wire exit area is practically sealed off in its own chamber and I do not think any particles are likely to exit and circulate. Shall I leave this as is to prevent leaking? The grommet and wire exit are not as tight as the OEM cover and I took this advice from those who had leaks. I do not think this was indicated in @Mythos install procedure.
 
I am trying to get some of the year's vacation in December and get back to the Hayabusa.

Sadly I keep thinking of the stator job which is done. Installed the Woodcraft due to the side stand accident. I put a small bead of RTV around the wires at the exit on the inside. I perpetually see nightmares of sealant destroying engines. From my memory, looking at the cover the wire exit area is practically sealed off in its own chamber and I do not think any particles are likely to exit and circulate. Shall I leave this as is to prevent leaking? The grommet and wire exit are not as tight as the OEM cover and I took this advice from those who had leaks. I do not think this was indicated in @Mythos install procedure.

No worries at all, it will not harm a thing.
Rtv sometimes IS nesacery there too, I put a small amount around every stator plug.
Alot of stator cover gaskets have the silicone center bead on them to help prevent leaks, but if they don't, I put rtv gasket sealent on those as well.
Rtv is really good stuff and can be used on most any gasket(never head gaskets).
The problem is(I have seen it many times) when too much is used, and it bleeds out of both sides of the surface to be sealed. So you end up with pieces of rubbery material when it dries that can and do fall off on the inside, and if that inside surface has active oil passages, then those bits end up on the pickup screen of the oil pump, and enough of them can reduce flow, with some even making it through and clogging other oil passages, and of course any reduction in oil flow can harm or kill an engine.
The key is to use a Small and thin bead, or spread a thin coating on the gasket surfaces.
The other thing is that the rtv is suppose to have some time to set up before assembly, which also helps keep the rtv in place, vs smearing or bleeding out.
Again, no concerns of using rtv on the stator gasket, or the rubber plug around the wiring harness, as it will not harm anything there, and can be a common place to use rtv sealant.
I was wondering the other day how this project was going; what else do you have left to do to it now?
 
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