I went for my first group ride yesterday.
- Thread starter Darkflame
- Start date
This is long as hell but a great article.
Motor Cycle Group Riding
Basic Rules For Riding In A Group
~Gilley~
1. When you change lanes, go to the far side of the lane so someone else can also change lanes. Example: If you are on the left side of the right lane, when you move to the left lane, go all the way over to the left side of the lane.
2. When coming to a turn on a regular road, (for a twistie road see rule 5) drop into a single file line. You should communicate either before the ride or during the ride with the bike beside you about who is going to go first and who will drop in behind.
3. Learn the hand signals. The basic ones that we use are:
A. Hand tapping top of helmet: There's a cop.
B. Pointing frantically to the ground with hand or foot: There's something in the road on that side.
C. Left arm extended and bent 90 degrees with closed fist: We are about to make a final turn in and stop
D. Left Arm extended and bent 90 degrees with open hand: Right turn.
E. Left arm straight out: Left turn
F. Left arm extended out and slightly waving up and down with open hand: slow down or possible stop.
G. Someone flashing all five fingers of one hand at you: you forgot to turn off your blinker.
H. One leg extended to side of bike: That person is about to change lanes in that direction. (I personally prefer and use blinkers, but you need to know this one.)
I. Pointing to the gas tank: I need gas.
J. Pointing to your stomach: I need food.
4. It is not uncool to use your blinkers to change lanes. The first night I rode with a large group, everyone was sticking out their legs and changing lanes. I'm thinking we're cruising between 80 and 140mph so I'm just going to have to look like a dork and use my blinkers just so there is no mistake about what I'm about to do because the last thing I wanted was to get ran over. As soon as I started using my blinkers, half the people in the group did also.
5. When you're on a twisty rode with a group, ride in a single file line and DO NOT ride above you're skill level! I have ridden with many different groups and they always wait at the end of the rode for everyone and usually do a head count to make sure no one went down. Take it easy, we will wait for you, rather than wait for you then bury you.
6. Don't go flying by someone at high speed in the same lane as they are in unless you know them and they have told you that it is ok. Please go by in a different lane.
7. If you want to stunt, go out front and every one try to pick one or two lanes to stunt in. Most experienced stunters do this, this is for the inexperienced. It is much better to get in front before you do a wheelie, etc. Riding up through a pack on your rear wheel is not the safest thing in the world.
8. When you first ride with a large group or an unfamiliar group, I suggest you stay in back and on whatever side that has an escape route. You need to be thinking what will I do if someone in front of me goes down. It does happen!
9. When the group puts the hammer down and it comes time for you to decelerate, if you don't brake and just let off the throttle, make sure that you tap your brake a couple of times so that the bikes behind you will know your slowing down.
10. Wear protective gear. At the least you should have a jacket, helmet, gloves, and ankle boots.
11. Make sure your bike is registered and you have a valid license, etc..
12. Be gassed up when we meet.
13. Emergency cards with all of your information and Emergency Contact info. Trust me on this one. It would have helped when Eddie passed, rather then me, Rob, Brett and Freddie telling the cops we didn't know who to call, etc.
14. Occasionally when turning a bike might pull out to turn but in intersection... he is stopping to create a barrier so cars know to stop and allow the group to turn into the road.. be aware for this.....He will then rejoin as the last bike.
15. If you peel off during a group ride let someone know. We’ll be looking for you. It’s a real drag.
16. When following do not focus on person in front of you keep them in peripheral vision and focus ahead. (IE. Don't Target Fixate!)
If there is an accident..
A) Don't' move the rider unless he cannot breath/impeded helmet in water puddle. mud etc.. (helmet came off something in his mouth)..then keep the neck straight as possible..
B) Know CPR.
C) do not pull out anything impaled braches etc... leave them in as pulling them out you may allow more bleeding
D) know how to use a tourniquet.
E) Call an ambulance be on safe side.
F) Search for emergency card inside jacket inside or under seat.
G) Turn off bike. shut off lanes of traffic place bike in lanes etc if necessary....
H) Find out where they are taking rider.
I) When cops show up.. Have a plan on what you’re going to tell them, as a group. Everyone has to agree on what you’re going to say. That's all I'm going to say about this.
J) Don't' take off helmet!! Make sure it goes with them to hospital for docs.
Keep talking to them if concussed etc.. don't' let them get up etc..
K) Use your head.
Riding "The Pace"
The Pace focuses on bike control and de-emphasizes outright speed. Full-throttle acceleration and last minute braking aren't part of the program, effectively eliminating the two most common single-bike accident scenarios in sport riding. Cornering momentum is the name of the game, stressing strong, forceful inputs at the handlebar to place the bike correctly at the entrance of the turn and get it flicked in with little wasted time and distance. Since the throttle wasn't slammed open at the exit of the last corner, the next corner doesn't require much, if any, braking. It isn't uncommon to ride with our group and not see a brake light flash all morning.
If the brakes are required, the front lever gets squeezed smoothly, quickly and with a good deal of force to set entrance speed in minimum time. Running in on the brakes is tantamount to running off the road, a confession that you're pushing too hard and not getting your entrance speed set early enough because you stayed on the gas too long. Running The Pace decreases your reliance on the throttle and brakes, the two easiest controls to abuse, and hones your ability to judge cornering speed, which is the most thrilling aspect of performance street riding.
YOUR LANE IS YOUR LIMIT
Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline. Staying on the right side of the centerline is much more challenging than simply straightening every slight corner, and when the whole group is committed to this intelligent practice, the temptation to cheat is eliminated through peer pressure and logic. Though street riding shouldn't be described in racing terms, you can think of your lane as the race track. Leaving your lane is tantamount to a crash.
Exact bike control has you using every inch of your lane if the circumstances permit it. In corners with a clear line of sight and no oncoming traffic, enter at the far outside of the corner, turn the bike relatively late in the corner to get a late apex at the far inside of your lane and accelerate out, just brushing the far outside of your lane as your bike stands up. Steer your bike forcefully but smoothly to minimize the transition time. Don't hammer it down because the chassis will bobble slightly as it settles, possibly carrying you off line. Since you haven't charged in on the brakes, you can get the throttle on early, before the apex, which balances and settles your bike for the drive out.
More often than not, circumstances do not permit the full use of your lane from yellow line to white line and back again. Blind corners, oncoming traffic and gravel on the road are a few criteria that dictate a more conservative approach, so leave yourself a three or four foot margin for error, especially at the left side of the lane where errant oncoming traffic could prove fatal. Simply narrow your entrance on a blind right-harder and move your apex into your lane three feet on blind left turns in order to stay free of unseen oncoming traffic hogging the centerline. Because you're running at The Pace and not flat out, your controlled entrances offer additional time to deal with unexpected gravel or other debris in your lane; the outside wheel track is usually the cleanest through a dirty corner since a car weights its outside tires most, scrubbing more dirt off the pavement in the process, so aim for that line.
A GOOD LEADER, WILLING FOLLOWERS
The street is not a racing environment, and it takes humility, self assurance and self control to keep it that way. The leader sets the pace and monitors his mirrors for signs of raggedness in the ranks that follow, such as tucking in on straights, crossing over the yellow line and hanging off the motorcycle in the corners, If the leader pulls away, he simply slows his straight way speed slightly but continues to enjoy the corners, thus closing the ranks but missing none of the fun. The small group of three or four riders I ride with is so harmonious that the pace is identical no matter who's leading. The lead shifts occasionally with a quick hand sign, but there's never a pass for the lead with an ego on the sleeve. Make no mistake, the riding is spirited and quick in the corners. Anyone with a right arm can hammer down the straights; it's proficiency in the corners that makes The Pace come alive.
Following distances are relatively lengthy, with the straight-aways taken at more moderate speeds, providing the perfect opportunity to adjust the gaps. Keeping a good distance serves several purposes, besides being safer. Rock chips are minimized, and the police or highway patrol won't suspect a race is in progress. The Pace's style of not hanging off in corners also reduces the appearance of pushing too hard and adds a degree of maturity and sensibility in the eyes of the public and the law. There's a definite challenge to cornering quickly while sitting sedately on your bike.
New rider indoctrination takes some time because The Pace develops very high cornering speeds and newcomers want to hammer the throttle on the exits to make up for what they lose at the entrances. Our group slows drastically when a new rider joins the ranks because our technique of moderate straightaway speed and no brakes can suck the unaware into a corner too fast, creating the most common single bike accident. With a new rider learning The Pace behind you, tap your brake lightly well before the turn to alert him and make sure he understands there's no pressure to stay with the group.
There's plenty of ongoing communication during The Pace. A foot off the peg indicates debris in the road, and all slowing or turning intentions are signaled in advance with the left hand and arm. Turn signals are used for direction changes and passing, with a wave of the left hand to thank the cars that move right and make it easy for motorcyclists to get past. Since you don't have a death grip on the handlebar, your left hand is also free to wave to oncoming riders, a fading courtesy that we'd like to see return. If you're getting the idea The Pace is a relaxing, noncompetitive way to ride with a group, you are right.
RELAX AND FLICK IT
I'd rather spend a Sunday in the mountains riding at The Pace than a Sunday at the racetrack, it's that enjoyable. Counter steering is the name of the game; smooth, forceful steering input at the handlebar relayed to the tires' contact patches through a rigid sport bike frame. Riding at The Pace is certainly what bike manufacturers had in mind when sport bikes evolved to the street.
But the machine isn't the most important aspect of running The Pace because you can do it on anything capable of getting through a corner. Attitude is The Pace's most important aspect: realizing the friend ahead of you isn't a competitor, respecting his right to lead the group occasionally and giving him credit for his riding skills. You must have the maturity to limit your straightaway speeds to allow the group to stay in touch and the sense to realize that racetrack tactics such as late braking and full throttle runs to redline will alienate the public and police and possibly introduce you to the unforgiving laws of gravity. When the group arrives at the destination after running The Pace, no one feels outgunned or is left with the feeling he must prove himself on the return run. If you've got some thing to prove, get on a racetrack.
The racetrack measures your speed with a stop watch and direct competition, welcoming your aggression and gritty resolve to be the best. Performance street riding's only yardstick is the amount of enjoyment gained, not lap times, finishing position or competitors beaten. The differences are huge but not always remembered by riders who haven't discovered The Pace's cornering pureness and group involvement. Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.
© Copyright MOTORCYCLIST Magazine
November 1991 issue
More Points to Ponder About Riding In Groups
~Written by Jim Lucia.~
Consider that the ride leader (RL) should have the ultimate right of way. That dynamic needs to be in place, as the RL has many issues of concern. He/she is attempting to lead the group as one, therefore this carries an important responsibility. The leader should think as the group. He/she should generally be alone in their lane up front. That allows full use of the lane width, giving the ability to scan for potholes, debris, irregularities etc. and to have room to avoid them and to give the appropriate signal to those following. This holds true for any other hazards or road conditions the group may encounter. This holds true as well for entering intersections, stopping at stop signs or traffic signals etc. The leader is ultimately going to decide the direction, other riders need to be clear of the leader as well as each other.
There are times when the plan doesn't come together! We all need to be on the lookout for this.
Be prepared for the unexpected. Split second decisions are tough to make, and we are entrusting the RL to make them. We need to be able to follow that lead -whatever it is -UNLESS doing so would put us or others at risk.
We like to be flexible and share lead duties. We generally will establish who leads to what point before we leave from wherever we last stopped. There are times when the lead is given over, generally acknowledged by a signal or pulling over to the right of the lane and allowing the riders who want to blitz a known fast stretch to do so, then regain the lead at the next stop.
Distancing/Spacing- in my opinion, one should not ride too closely to other riders. That is, stay far enough behind so that if the rider ahead needs to go from one side of the lane to another to avoid something, there will be no contact. Ride in a staggered formation. Keep the rider behind you visible in your mirrors. As speed increases, leave more room between riders. Go through curves single file then resume the staggered formation. Also keep in mind, the person in front of you has the right of way as well. Same as in a car. Any contact is on you.
Riding a line- I've noticed lately that a few riders don't ride a consistent line through curves. Riding a line is the safest and fastest way through a curve or corner. Pick a radius before entering a curve then ride that radius as consistently as you can through the entire arc. You'll find you are a lot smoother and faster. The exception is when having to avoid road hazards, pot holes, animals, wet spots(!) cars or fallen riders. Cornering is half the fun of riding. Always go at your own pace- don't overcook it. If you see you're holding up other riders, give them the signal to pass and then get in your sweet spot.
Loose Cannons- every once in a while we get to see the results of losing concentration, inexperience, boredom, ego, many things. Most of the time there's no harm done. The potential does exist however for problems, so just be aware! A loss of concentration can mean not seeing a hazard when everyone else does, not seeing a red light (or a yellow for that matter). Not seeing someone having to make an emergency stop, etc. Inexperience has caused some to ride over their head and scare the crap out of themselves and others, and even to crash. Boredom from a steady pace has inspired some to pull out and pass the entire group at warp speed- generally ok, unless we're making the next left..... ego- well, what can I say? We all have it, sometimes it gets the best of us.....
Safe passing- always consider your safety and that of others- those on bikes, bicycles and in cars and trucks. Make your passes as cleanly and safely as you can. If everyone else has gone by and you can't make it- don't worry about it. There will generally be a spot coming up where you can make up time. I've found in most cases all those banzai passes are generally worthless anyway, as at the next set of twisties there's a pack of cars going 10 under so you're stuck again........
I'm not a fan of passing on double yellow, though I have done it on occasion- mostly for safety reasons (you laugh?). I can just hear the cop now- Sir, you're how old? You haven't learned the meaning of double yellow lines yet? Tsk tsk (while writing out driving award).
It certainly would be nice though, if we could educate other drivers not to run off the road when they see us coming at them in the curves or slow down or to at least just move out of the way to let the group go by. You can tell when we pass a knowledgeable biker who just happens to be in his/her car or truck that day. Notice how they give way and wave you on by? I always give a wave of thanks to those folks. They go a long way in making up for some of the other ones out there......
There are no trophies or cash prizes on our rides. To me the best reward is that we have a great time, enjoy each others company and respect, and return home the same way we left- ready to do it again as soon as we can.
Motor Cycle Group Riding
Basic Rules For Riding In A Group
~Gilley~
1. When you change lanes, go to the far side of the lane so someone else can also change lanes. Example: If you are on the left side of the right lane, when you move to the left lane, go all the way over to the left side of the lane.
2. When coming to a turn on a regular road, (for a twistie road see rule 5) drop into a single file line. You should communicate either before the ride or during the ride with the bike beside you about who is going to go first and who will drop in behind.
3. Learn the hand signals. The basic ones that we use are:
A. Hand tapping top of helmet: There's a cop.
B. Pointing frantically to the ground with hand or foot: There's something in the road on that side.
C. Left arm extended and bent 90 degrees with closed fist: We are about to make a final turn in and stop
D. Left Arm extended and bent 90 degrees with open hand: Right turn.
E. Left arm straight out: Left turn
F. Left arm extended out and slightly waving up and down with open hand: slow down or possible stop.
G. Someone flashing all five fingers of one hand at you: you forgot to turn off your blinker.
H. One leg extended to side of bike: That person is about to change lanes in that direction. (I personally prefer and use blinkers, but you need to know this one.)
I. Pointing to the gas tank: I need gas.
J. Pointing to your stomach: I need food.
4. It is not uncool to use your blinkers to change lanes. The first night I rode with a large group, everyone was sticking out their legs and changing lanes. I'm thinking we're cruising between 80 and 140mph so I'm just going to have to look like a dork and use my blinkers just so there is no mistake about what I'm about to do because the last thing I wanted was to get ran over. As soon as I started using my blinkers, half the people in the group did also.
5. When you're on a twisty rode with a group, ride in a single file line and DO NOT ride above you're skill level! I have ridden with many different groups and they always wait at the end of the rode for everyone and usually do a head count to make sure no one went down. Take it easy, we will wait for you, rather than wait for you then bury you.
6. Don't go flying by someone at high speed in the same lane as they are in unless you know them and they have told you that it is ok. Please go by in a different lane.
7. If you want to stunt, go out front and every one try to pick one or two lanes to stunt in. Most experienced stunters do this, this is for the inexperienced. It is much better to get in front before you do a wheelie, etc. Riding up through a pack on your rear wheel is not the safest thing in the world.
8. When you first ride with a large group or an unfamiliar group, I suggest you stay in back and on whatever side that has an escape route. You need to be thinking what will I do if someone in front of me goes down. It does happen!
9. When the group puts the hammer down and it comes time for you to decelerate, if you don't brake and just let off the throttle, make sure that you tap your brake a couple of times so that the bikes behind you will know your slowing down.
10. Wear protective gear. At the least you should have a jacket, helmet, gloves, and ankle boots.
11. Make sure your bike is registered and you have a valid license, etc..
12. Be gassed up when we meet.
13. Emergency cards with all of your information and Emergency Contact info. Trust me on this one. It would have helped when Eddie passed, rather then me, Rob, Brett and Freddie telling the cops we didn't know who to call, etc.
14. Occasionally when turning a bike might pull out to turn but in intersection... he is stopping to create a barrier so cars know to stop and allow the group to turn into the road.. be aware for this.....He will then rejoin as the last bike.
15. If you peel off during a group ride let someone know. We’ll be looking for you. It’s a real drag.
16. When following do not focus on person in front of you keep them in peripheral vision and focus ahead. (IE. Don't Target Fixate!)
If there is an accident..
A) Don't' move the rider unless he cannot breath/impeded helmet in water puddle. mud etc.. (helmet came off something in his mouth)..then keep the neck straight as possible..
B) Know CPR.
C) do not pull out anything impaled braches etc... leave them in as pulling them out you may allow more bleeding
D) know how to use a tourniquet.
E) Call an ambulance be on safe side.
F) Search for emergency card inside jacket inside or under seat.
G) Turn off bike. shut off lanes of traffic place bike in lanes etc if necessary....
H) Find out where they are taking rider.
I) When cops show up.. Have a plan on what you’re going to tell them, as a group. Everyone has to agree on what you’re going to say. That's all I'm going to say about this.
J) Don't' take off helmet!! Make sure it goes with them to hospital for docs.
Keep talking to them if concussed etc.. don't' let them get up etc..
K) Use your head.
Riding "The Pace"
The Pace focuses on bike control and de-emphasizes outright speed. Full-throttle acceleration and last minute braking aren't part of the program, effectively eliminating the two most common single-bike accident scenarios in sport riding. Cornering momentum is the name of the game, stressing strong, forceful inputs at the handlebar to place the bike correctly at the entrance of the turn and get it flicked in with little wasted time and distance. Since the throttle wasn't slammed open at the exit of the last corner, the next corner doesn't require much, if any, braking. It isn't uncommon to ride with our group and not see a brake light flash all morning.
If the brakes are required, the front lever gets squeezed smoothly, quickly and with a good deal of force to set entrance speed in minimum time. Running in on the brakes is tantamount to running off the road, a confession that you're pushing too hard and not getting your entrance speed set early enough because you stayed on the gas too long. Running The Pace decreases your reliance on the throttle and brakes, the two easiest controls to abuse, and hones your ability to judge cornering speed, which is the most thrilling aspect of performance street riding.
YOUR LANE IS YOUR LIMIT
Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline. Staying on the right side of the centerline is much more challenging than simply straightening every slight corner, and when the whole group is committed to this intelligent practice, the temptation to cheat is eliminated through peer pressure and logic. Though street riding shouldn't be described in racing terms, you can think of your lane as the race track. Leaving your lane is tantamount to a crash.
Exact bike control has you using every inch of your lane if the circumstances permit it. In corners with a clear line of sight and no oncoming traffic, enter at the far outside of the corner, turn the bike relatively late in the corner to get a late apex at the far inside of your lane and accelerate out, just brushing the far outside of your lane as your bike stands up. Steer your bike forcefully but smoothly to minimize the transition time. Don't hammer it down because the chassis will bobble slightly as it settles, possibly carrying you off line. Since you haven't charged in on the brakes, you can get the throttle on early, before the apex, which balances and settles your bike for the drive out.
More often than not, circumstances do not permit the full use of your lane from yellow line to white line and back again. Blind corners, oncoming traffic and gravel on the road are a few criteria that dictate a more conservative approach, so leave yourself a three or four foot margin for error, especially at the left side of the lane where errant oncoming traffic could prove fatal. Simply narrow your entrance on a blind right-harder and move your apex into your lane three feet on blind left turns in order to stay free of unseen oncoming traffic hogging the centerline. Because you're running at The Pace and not flat out, your controlled entrances offer additional time to deal with unexpected gravel or other debris in your lane; the outside wheel track is usually the cleanest through a dirty corner since a car weights its outside tires most, scrubbing more dirt off the pavement in the process, so aim for that line.
A GOOD LEADER, WILLING FOLLOWERS
The street is not a racing environment, and it takes humility, self assurance and self control to keep it that way. The leader sets the pace and monitors his mirrors for signs of raggedness in the ranks that follow, such as tucking in on straights, crossing over the yellow line and hanging off the motorcycle in the corners, If the leader pulls away, he simply slows his straight way speed slightly but continues to enjoy the corners, thus closing the ranks but missing none of the fun. The small group of three or four riders I ride with is so harmonious that the pace is identical no matter who's leading. The lead shifts occasionally with a quick hand sign, but there's never a pass for the lead with an ego on the sleeve. Make no mistake, the riding is spirited and quick in the corners. Anyone with a right arm can hammer down the straights; it's proficiency in the corners that makes The Pace come alive.
Following distances are relatively lengthy, with the straight-aways taken at more moderate speeds, providing the perfect opportunity to adjust the gaps. Keeping a good distance serves several purposes, besides being safer. Rock chips are minimized, and the police or highway patrol won't suspect a race is in progress. The Pace's style of not hanging off in corners also reduces the appearance of pushing too hard and adds a degree of maturity and sensibility in the eyes of the public and the law. There's a definite challenge to cornering quickly while sitting sedately on your bike.
New rider indoctrination takes some time because The Pace develops very high cornering speeds and newcomers want to hammer the throttle on the exits to make up for what they lose at the entrances. Our group slows drastically when a new rider joins the ranks because our technique of moderate straightaway speed and no brakes can suck the unaware into a corner too fast, creating the most common single bike accident. With a new rider learning The Pace behind you, tap your brake lightly well before the turn to alert him and make sure he understands there's no pressure to stay with the group.
There's plenty of ongoing communication during The Pace. A foot off the peg indicates debris in the road, and all slowing or turning intentions are signaled in advance with the left hand and arm. Turn signals are used for direction changes and passing, with a wave of the left hand to thank the cars that move right and make it easy for motorcyclists to get past. Since you don't have a death grip on the handlebar, your left hand is also free to wave to oncoming riders, a fading courtesy that we'd like to see return. If you're getting the idea The Pace is a relaxing, noncompetitive way to ride with a group, you are right.
RELAX AND FLICK IT
I'd rather spend a Sunday in the mountains riding at The Pace than a Sunday at the racetrack, it's that enjoyable. Counter steering is the name of the game; smooth, forceful steering input at the handlebar relayed to the tires' contact patches through a rigid sport bike frame. Riding at The Pace is certainly what bike manufacturers had in mind when sport bikes evolved to the street.
But the machine isn't the most important aspect of running The Pace because you can do it on anything capable of getting through a corner. Attitude is The Pace's most important aspect: realizing the friend ahead of you isn't a competitor, respecting his right to lead the group occasionally and giving him credit for his riding skills. You must have the maturity to limit your straightaway speeds to allow the group to stay in touch and the sense to realize that racetrack tactics such as late braking and full throttle runs to redline will alienate the public and police and possibly introduce you to the unforgiving laws of gravity. When the group arrives at the destination after running The Pace, no one feels outgunned or is left with the feeling he must prove himself on the return run. If you've got some thing to prove, get on a racetrack.
The racetrack measures your speed with a stop watch and direct competition, welcoming your aggression and gritty resolve to be the best. Performance street riding's only yardstick is the amount of enjoyment gained, not lap times, finishing position or competitors beaten. The differences are huge but not always remembered by riders who haven't discovered The Pace's cornering pureness and group involvement. Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.
© Copyright MOTORCYCLIST Magazine
November 1991 issue
More Points to Ponder About Riding In Groups
~Written by Jim Lucia.~
Consider that the ride leader (RL) should have the ultimate right of way. That dynamic needs to be in place, as the RL has many issues of concern. He/she is attempting to lead the group as one, therefore this carries an important responsibility. The leader should think as the group. He/she should generally be alone in their lane up front. That allows full use of the lane width, giving the ability to scan for potholes, debris, irregularities etc. and to have room to avoid them and to give the appropriate signal to those following. This holds true for any other hazards or road conditions the group may encounter. This holds true as well for entering intersections, stopping at stop signs or traffic signals etc. The leader is ultimately going to decide the direction, other riders need to be clear of the leader as well as each other.
There are times when the plan doesn't come together! We all need to be on the lookout for this.
Be prepared for the unexpected. Split second decisions are tough to make, and we are entrusting the RL to make them. We need to be able to follow that lead -whatever it is -UNLESS doing so would put us or others at risk.
We like to be flexible and share lead duties. We generally will establish who leads to what point before we leave from wherever we last stopped. There are times when the lead is given over, generally acknowledged by a signal or pulling over to the right of the lane and allowing the riders who want to blitz a known fast stretch to do so, then regain the lead at the next stop.
Distancing/Spacing- in my opinion, one should not ride too closely to other riders. That is, stay far enough behind so that if the rider ahead needs to go from one side of the lane to another to avoid something, there will be no contact. Ride in a staggered formation. Keep the rider behind you visible in your mirrors. As speed increases, leave more room between riders. Go through curves single file then resume the staggered formation. Also keep in mind, the person in front of you has the right of way as well. Same as in a car. Any contact is on you.
Riding a line- I've noticed lately that a few riders don't ride a consistent line through curves. Riding a line is the safest and fastest way through a curve or corner. Pick a radius before entering a curve then ride that radius as consistently as you can through the entire arc. You'll find you are a lot smoother and faster. The exception is when having to avoid road hazards, pot holes, animals, wet spots(!) cars or fallen riders. Cornering is half the fun of riding. Always go at your own pace- don't overcook it. If you see you're holding up other riders, give them the signal to pass and then get in your sweet spot.
Loose Cannons- every once in a while we get to see the results of losing concentration, inexperience, boredom, ego, many things. Most of the time there's no harm done. The potential does exist however for problems, so just be aware! A loss of concentration can mean not seeing a hazard when everyone else does, not seeing a red light (or a yellow for that matter). Not seeing someone having to make an emergency stop, etc. Inexperience has caused some to ride over their head and scare the crap out of themselves and others, and even to crash. Boredom from a steady pace has inspired some to pull out and pass the entire group at warp speed- generally ok, unless we're making the next left..... ego- well, what can I say? We all have it, sometimes it gets the best of us.....
Safe passing- always consider your safety and that of others- those on bikes, bicycles and in cars and trucks. Make your passes as cleanly and safely as you can. If everyone else has gone by and you can't make it- don't worry about it. There will generally be a spot coming up where you can make up time. I've found in most cases all those banzai passes are generally worthless anyway, as at the next set of twisties there's a pack of cars going 10 under so you're stuck again........
I'm not a fan of passing on double yellow, though I have done it on occasion- mostly for safety reasons (you laugh?). I can just hear the cop now- Sir, you're how old? You haven't learned the meaning of double yellow lines yet? Tsk tsk (while writing out driving award).
It certainly would be nice though, if we could educate other drivers not to run off the road when they see us coming at them in the curves or slow down or to at least just move out of the way to let the group go by. You can tell when we pass a knowledgeable biker who just happens to be in his/her car or truck that day. Notice how they give way and wave you on by? I always give a wave of thanks to those folks. They go a long way in making up for some of the other ones out there......
There are no trophies or cash prizes on our rides. To me the best reward is that we have a great time, enjoy each others company and respect, and return home the same way we left- ready to do it again as soon as we can.
Relsek
Registered
What's up Diesel?
jay21112
Registered
Nice post, but not all the world is full of trafficless twisty roads.
There is too much traffic around to set a "pace" where I am. Every ride I've been on we ride slightly faster than traffic and any straightaway we see it's balls out acceleration because we have no idea how long it will be until we are going to see another clear road again.
But all in all the post was a great read! Thanks for posting it!
There is too much traffic around to set a "pace" where I am. Every ride I've been on we ride slightly faster than traffic and any straightaway we see it's balls out acceleration because we have no idea how long it will be until we are going to see another clear road again.
But all in all the post was a great read! Thanks for posting it!
In all the groups I've rode in debris in the roadway has been signaled by moving the foot on the side of the debris up and down like you're stomping the debris. For example, if there is gravel on the right half of the lane I'd take my right foot off the peg and make a stomping motion. Some don't do the stomping motion. They just take their foot off the peg and hold it down as they pass the debris, but all have used their foot and not their hand. The only hand signals I see on our group rides are actually hand turn signals from the guys who ride their race bikes (no signals) on the street. Another reason why it's good to go over the main signals before a newbie joins your group.oh yeah and usually putting your had towards the ground means theres something thereie rodent, pot hole, deer guts
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