Inconsistent idle and low idle stuttering

SSGT_B said:
06 , synced tb, pair removed, all short stacks, airbox mod, k&n filter, 4-2-1 yosh with short can, ecu flash, pc3 can tune. Cold start , has not been run in weeks. Hope this helps

Click to expand...
What does the ecu flash and pc3 do ? I have pair valve removed , yosimira slip ins and k&n filter I wonder if one of those would help the low rpm stumble
 
Ecu flash just changed the rev limiter and restrictions. Pc3 allows for fuel changes but the map I am using is generic.
 
OK, so this bike has a K&N air filter, Akrapovic full stainless system with carbon muffler, PC3 but disconnected at the moment, just running the stock OEM '99 ECU.
It has Stage 1 Yoshi spec cams, still has the PAIR valve but it is blocked off at the hose into the airbox.
Throttle bodies have been synchronised recently, it's running 95 octane gas (premium pump gas here in NZ, no ethanol, just benzine blend type fuel)
It's 11 deg C in the garage at the time of startup.
The bike has been sitting for 3 weeks.
I'm using the manual 'choke' on the left side handlebar switch block (not a choke at all, just a fast idle) and I'm manually reducing the idle speed down to the set idle.
The clicks you can hear is the little lever on the switch block being reset, the whirring noise you can hear when I switch the ignition on is the cooling fan in the LED head lamp bulb (aftermarket bulb fitted)
 
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@Kiwi Rider - idles exactly like mine. So I think there's enough info to confirm, Gen 1's have a lumpy idle, period.

I've installed Woolich on mine, so I'll be playing around with tunes on my spare ECU, especially AFR in the lower RPM range. I'll unify the ignition curves (to remove restrictions on 1st and 2nd) and delete the top speed limiter (not that I intend on initiating warp factor 1 on the road).
 
chrisso said:
@Kiwi Rider - idles exactly like mine. So I think there's enough info to confirm, Gen 1's have a lumpy idle, period.

I've installed Woolich on mine, so I'll be playing around with tunes on my spare ECU, especially AFR in the lower RPM range. I'll unify the ignition curves (to remove restrictions on 1st and 2nd) and delete the top speed limiter (not that I intend on initiating warp factor 1 on the road).
Click to expand...
Yes my Aussie friend, Gen 1's have a 'lumpy' idle compared with a Gen 2, which has an idle speed control valve, upgraded injection system etc.
Sounds like you';re gonna have some fun with the woolich tuning, let me know how it goes.
Hey, I see you are in WA, are you in Perth?
I lived in Perth back in the 80's for a few years, loved it!
I was in Maylands, Floreat Park, Kalamunda, and Bickley Valley.
The summers were long and hot . . unlike New Zealand summers lol, short and sweet lmao.
 
chrisso said:
Yep, East Vic Park. I'll be coming to NZ in the near future after this Wuhan virus passes. Thanks for your input. Just went for a ride on my stocker and loved every second. Prefer it over my GSXR 1000.
Click to expand...
Well, IF we ever open our borders again, let me know when you are arriving and I'd love to meet up and show you around . . . I even have a spare room if you get stuck, no worries.
Keep in touch mate.
 
Berlin Germany said:
loooooooooong hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

you remember that the busa is no V8 /10 /12 ?

the two sounds i heard seem to me as normal and usual - for a genI.
genII´s exact sound i don´t remember in this moment - sorry. ;-)

yes at the genI the iddle jumps/varies a very little bit in a (feeled) dimension of i guess ~50 rpm´s or so - I personally never cared about it - I always accepted it as normal.
valve clearance set to max
throttles synchronized as fine as possible

and i have built the most precise synchronizer - completely from parts from the hardware store around the corner.
even the most expensive measuring instruments cannot be more precise,
because the physics alone works on my equipment.
the instruments in the purchased ones always have springs and therefore inevitable tolerances .

the only problem will rise if you have put the throttle-group into thousands pieces.
to synchronize after reassembling you need the "clock" instruments to achieve a basic setting , because my "big thing" gets rid of its fluid (motor oil) to one cylinder faster than youn stop the motor by the red switch.
so only ! use my tool after this basic setting !
I cannot say how the Carbtune will react to massively unsynchronized throttle valves - sorry - never used them before.

see this pic of my ~35" long "big thing"
View attachment 1616983

and if you want you can get the carbtune as the alternative to my big thing
vantage - small in size and by that really easy to transport
View attachment 1616984
it works on the same physical basis as mine above.

what i´m thinking about is to replace the X-screws by alen-screws
their advantage i guess should be that you need zero downforce to turn them contrary to the X-screws - ergo you have not to put any pressure onto for grip with your X-screwdriver (Philips).
even if you use this (highly recommended) "Vessel" X-screwdrivers who are built for the "JIS" - standard screws.
View attachment 1616985

next time i have to syncho i will replace the screws (x to alen) before - promised ;-)
Click to expand...
Love my jis. Vessel screwdrivers.
 
chrisso said:
All this talk about loving jis, holy fuuuuu**
Click to expand...
1617022


1617023


1617024


1617024


I love VESSEL Tools J.I.S too , learn from others they don't know
1617025

Vessel Magadora Impacta , HIT IT WITH A SMALL HAMMER AND LOOSE THE RESERVOIR J.I.S Bolts
 
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