K8 suspension settings?

How much do you weigh?

About 215 without gear, And my wife is usually with me also and she is about 118, But I leave it set up the same way when she is not with me, But really it is still to soft with the both of us on it, I am going to be doing seals in the next couple of weeks and will probably go ahead and do springs also.
 
Sorry about the seals, good call waiting for OEM replacements :thumbsup: heard the same thing on them, non-oem "can" be ok without leaks, not exactly what we want to hear. Good luck getting her back on the road, I'll load the flathead in the trunk and do some tests this week. Keep me posted on what you find Six, appreciate the info. Macon454, interested in the same question, how much do you weigh? 180 w/o gear here.

Just seen that you asked about weight also:laugh: I answered in above post:thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys, I might need to copy your settings since I'm in the 200 range myself.
 
I'm busy paying my property taxes tonight. Due tomorrow. By the time I get done writing checks to these politicians I'll be hard to deal with until morning. Tomorrow is a rise and shine at 3:15 AM and be in Portland Oregon for a track day by 6:00 AM, team meeting at 6:30 and the weather is not looking very good at the moment. After I get home tomorrow evening between 8-9 PM I'll need a good nights sleep and wake up with a brand new pleasant attitude :beerchug:

I'll get back to you guys on Tuesday and we'll chat about your suspension.

Back to writing checks. Washington State sucks! We are very near the top of highest taxed states in the country, 5th I believe. There is a bright side, at least we are not at the top :beerchug:
 
I weigh in around 175lbs and with gear 180 to 185lb range. I have both my front and rear sag at 1" when I sit on the bike. The rear spring with almost all pre load off. The adjuster at close to the top of the threads on the rear shock. I used the Dave Moss method of getting the bike set up for me. I liked it and has helped get the Busa to be a better riding bike. Before it rode like Crap for 2 years with the factory setting.... rock hard and not using the suspension. Now I love the bike....

Bike mods too:
Full Yoshi R77 exhaust (-33lbs)
+3 in the rear sprocket (Shortened my wheel base)
+1" raised in the rear with Soupy adjustable Dog bones (More ride height to help keep hard parts off the road. More weighted feel on the front. Help quicken the turning on the bike too.)
190/55 rear tire (more ride height in rear and more tire contact patch for railing corners.)
Front brakes upgraded to 09 GSXR 1k calipers. SS brake lines. Brembo master cylinder. EBC extreme pads.
My bike weighs in at 548lbs full of fluids and fuel.

Here are the specs I currently have in my bike.
1" sag front and rear with me on it.

Front: 7 turns out from full stiff on preload.
7 clicks out from full stiff rebound
8 clicks out from full compression

Rear: A few threads showing in the rear shock preload. Maybe 3 threads.
10 clicks out from full rebound.
8 clicks out of compression.

This makes a good road riding bike. Smooth and soft riding with out being a pogo. A pleasant ride. When riding the Dragon with tire pressures at 30/30 warm to hot. I found that 2 to 3 clicks front and rear for rebound tightened up the bike when my pace quicked. Helped make the bike feel better and less sloppy. This is due to the oil in the forks and shock warming up. I also added 1 to 2 turns in compression too. Again my pace quicked and the oil got thinner and the suspension felt a little to soft. When I rode back with these setting. Tighter. It felt rougher to ride. 2 turns back out of rebound and compression restored the nicer feeling ride at cruise. I hope this helps!
 
I weigh in around 175lbs and with gear 180 to 185lb range. I have both my front and rear sag at 1" when I sit on the bike. The rear spring with almost all pre load off. The adjuster at close to the top of the threads on the rear shock. I used the Dave Moss method of getting the bike set up for me. I liked it and has helped get the Busa to be a better riding bike. Before it rode like Crap for 2 years with the factory setting.... rock hard and not using the suspension. Now I love the bike....

Bike mods too:
Full Yoshi R77 exhaust (-33lbs)
+3 in the rear sprocket (Shortened my wheel base)
+1" raised in the rear with Soupy adjustable Dog bones (More ride height to help keep hard parts off the road. More weighted feel on the front. Help quicken the turning on the bike too.)
190/55 rear tire (more ride height in rear and more tire contact patch for railing corners.)
Front brakes upgraded to 09 GSXR 1k calipers. SS brake lines. Brembo master cylinder. EBC extreme pads.
My bike weighs in at 548lbs full of fluids and fuel.

Here are the specs I currently have in my bike.
1" sag front and rear with me on it.

Front: 7 turns out from full stiff on preload.
7 clicks out from full stiff rebound
8 clicks out from full compression

Rear: A few threads showing in the rear shock preload. Maybe 3 threads.
10 clicks out from full rebound.
8 clicks out of compression.

This makes a good road riding bike. Smooth and soft riding with out being a pogo. A pleasant ride. When riding the Dragon with tire pressures at 30/30 warm to hot. I found that 2 to 3 clicks front and rear for rebound tightened up the bike when my pace quicked. Helped make the bike feel better and less sloppy. This is due to the oil in the forks and shock warming up. I also added 1 to 2 turns in compression too. Again my pace quicked and the oil got thinner and the suspension felt a little to soft. When I rode back with these setting. Tighter. It felt rougher to ride. 2 turns back out of rebound and compression restored the nicer feeling ride at cruise. I hope this helps!

It does thanks :beerchug:

Never thought of using Soupy's to raise the rear. I secretly want to copy your brake system too :whistle:
 
It does thanks :beerchug:

Never thought of using Soupy's to raise the rear. I secretly want to copy your brake system too :whistle:

No problem just ask anytime! In fact here you go!

Brembo RCS Master cylinder.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/product.php?productid=17194&cat=294&page=1

Ebc Extreme front brake pads for a 09 GSXR 1k/ GenII busa's are the same part #
https://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=293

SS brake lines. Recommend Speigler. Gailfer are P.O.S. Rust showed up on 2 sets I had gotten. A few other members here have had the same problem.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=292

Gsxr 1 Front brake Calipers from an 09 Gsxr 1k.(Look on EBAY)

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...nder-upgrade-pazzo-clutch-handle-upgrade.html

The Vesrah brake pads in this picture are very nice too. Similar to the EBC extremes in feel and performance!
 
No problem just ask anytime! In fact here you go!

Brembo RCS Master cylinder.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/product.php?productid=17194&cat=294&page=1

Ebc Extreme front brake pads for a 09 GSXR 1k/ GenII busa's are the same part #
https://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=293

SS brake lines. Recommend Speigler. Gailfer are P.O.S. Rust showed up on 2 sets I had gotten. A few other members here have had the same problem.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=292

Gsxr 1 Front brake Calipers from an 09 Gsxr 1k.(Look on EBAY)

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...nder-upgrade-pazzo-clutch-handle-upgrade.html

The Vesrah brake pads in this picture are very nice too. Similar to the EBC extremes in feel and performance!

You can ask Tim at Pashnit if he carries this stuff or any site sponsor to mnatch or beat Motomummy's prices too!
 
Can you tell me how much further toward the front of the bike the Brembo mc sticks out from the handlebar please? I asked Pashnit if there were any available the same length as stock, but he didn't know.
I have .75" risers and heli-bars with Pazzo knock off levers. The levers are about 1/8" from the fairing at the perch end at full lock either side. A mc that's any further forward will not fit.
I also want ASV levers, and I'm afraid they won't fit either. If I can't make it work I may have to go to LSR bars or the equivalent. I'de like to see how they feel first though. I can't go back to stock bars and height either, but I'de love better brakes. I already have ss lines, and have EBC pro pads ordered.
Thanks for any help.
 
no problem just ask anytime! In fact here you go!

Brembo rcs master cylinder.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/product.php?productid=17194&cat=294&page=1

ebc extreme front brake pads for a 09 gsxr 1k/ genii busa's are the same part #
https://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=293

ss brake lines. Recommend speigler. Gailfer are p.o.s. Rust showed up on 2 sets i had gotten. A few other members here have had the same problem.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=292

gsxr 1 front brake calipers from an 09 gsxr 1k.(look on ebay)

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...nder-upgrade-pazzo-clutch-handle-upgrade.html

the vesrah brake pads in this picture are very nice too. Similar to the ebc extremes in feel and performance!


:bowdown: :bowdown:
 
Oh the SS Speigler lines need +2" over stock in length due to the way they mount to the Brembo Radial master cylinder. Had to ask Motomummy to make sure that was done. You may get a way with 1" but I got +2" longer and all was good. I did have to grind back the upper triple clamp corner where the handle bars go on the right side. This was to get the Master cylinder to move further in board towards the fork. Others have done this too to make it fit. I do not have risers on my bike, so I dont know how that will affect the clearance to the the dash. My left side handle is a pazzo. Like in the picture it is very close to the dash. Almost touching on #3 setting. It will touch on the #4-#6 handle setting. The Brembo master cylinder handle is stock and full length like the Pazzo, but clears my dash with almost 1/8" of clearance at full left hand lock. I didnt go with shorties. Pazzo does make a shortie for the Brembo if you like to have shorties though.
 
The number of turns of preload are insignificant. What matters most is the sag setting. Put enough preload in to get the sag set properly. If you max out (in or out) the preload and the proper sag can't be achieved then new springs are needed. Set front sag at 38 to 40mm, rear sag at 25mm. Measure with the suspension fully unloaded (weight off) then measure again with the rider fully geared and in place (feet on pegs)after giving the suspension a bounce. Subtract the two for the total sag.

The bottom line is you need to set up your bike for you. Dialing in someone else's numbers is guessing at best. Ohlins website has a good 20 second vids how to set sag.

Well can't find the vid there. God help me to embed.


HAHA Fail as expected
 
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All you guys (Including Tim) should invest in Andrew Trevitt's "Sportbike Suspension Tuning". It's a wealth of information and the best $30 you'll ever spend if you are truely interested in learning about how your suspension functions as well as how to improve your set up. Best suspension book I have ever read. Andrew's illustrations simplifies complicated issues making them easy to grasp.

None of us will ever become a suspension guru as suspension tuning is an art well beyond the reach of us mere mortals. But,,,,, the more we learn the more capable we become at setting up what we have.

Dave Moss is a wonderful source of information as well. I have attended his suspension clinics and the man is phenomenal at reading tires and adjusting suspension accordingly. Tim's front tire from the Bash tells me he has issues with suspension. Solving those issues takes trial and error to resolve for most of us where Dave Moss can usually solve them quite readily.

After reading Andrew's book a few times, you'll feel pretty comfortable at twidling with your knobs knowing you aren't going to get yourself into serious trouble. If you have no suspension experience, it's by far better to have a trackday vendor set your base line so you have a good foundation to start with. With a baseline set properly you can always go back to those settings and start over if you get in over your head. Plus, the suspension vendor can tell you if you require different springs simply by the relationship between the free sag and rider sag.

Your suspensions job "First and foremost" is to keep your tires in proper contact with the pavement.

Keep in mind there is no magical suspension setting that works for everyone. Different talent levels require different suspension settings depending on the application. Track settings are not good street settings. Your buddies settings who is much farther advanced than you may not work very well for you. Bikes set up for super fast riding don't ride for beans at slow speeds. Bikes raised in the rear to make high speed cornering more agressive can be a real problem at slower speeds by wanting to dive off the inside of corners at slower speeds.

IMO if you want to ride fast, it's all about suspension, suspension, suspension! :cheerleader:
 
All you guys (Including Tim) should invest in Andrew Trevitt's "Sportbike Suspension Tuning". It's a wealth of information and the best $30 you'll ever spend if you are truely interested in learning about how your suspension functions as well as how to improve your set up. Best suspension book I have ever read. Andrew's illustrations simplifies complicated issues making them easy to grasp.

None of us will ever become a suspension guru as suspension tuning is an art well beyond the reach of us mere mortals. But,,,,, the more we learn the more capable we become at setting up what we have.

Dave Moss is a wonderful source of information as well. I have attended his suspension clinics and the man is phenomenal at reading tires and adjusting suspension accordingly. Tim's front tire from the Bash tells me he has issues with suspension. Solving those issues takes trial and error to resolve for most of us where Dave Moss can usually solve them quite readily.

After reading Andrew's book a few times, you'll feel pretty comfortable at twidling with your knobs knowing you aren't going to get yourself into serious trouble. If you have no suspension experience, it's by far better to have a trackday vendor set your base line so you have a good foundation to start with. With a baseline set properly you can always go back to those settings and start over if you get in over your head. Plus, the suspension vendor can tell you if you require different springs simply by the relationship between the free sag and rider sag.

Your suspensions job "First and foremost" is to keep your tires in proper contact with the pavement.

Keep in mind there is no magical suspension setting that works for everyone. Different talent levels require different suspension settings depending on the application. Track settings are not good street settings. Your buddies settings who is much farther advanced than you may not work very well for you. Bikes set up for super fast riding don't ride for beans at slow speeds. Bikes raised in the rear to make high speed cornering more agressive can be a real problem at slower speeds by wanting to dive off the inside of corners at slower speeds.

IMO if you want to ride fast, it's all about suspension, suspension, suspension! :cheerleader:

As usual, great information:thumbsup:
Got any advice on tires?:poke::rofl:
 
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