Lowering front end

07i3usa

Registered
I ws wondering what the easiest way to lower the front end of a 07 busa and inch or maybe a little less would be? Thanks for your help
 
I think the only way to lower it safely is buy changing out the stock triple tree.
 
A new triple tree will let you lower the front pretty easily as you have read. Keep one thing in mind though, all most all of the trees on the market will give you some interference with the dash and the brake lever and sometimes also the clutch lever.
Many guys us them and easily deal with the issue. Just for some info we offer a lowering tree for the 99-07 Busa that offers clearance for most aftermarket levers as well as the stock levers. The tree we make is on my 05 with Pazzo levers and I have no clearance problems. Plus the distance from the seat to the bars is changed very little and also the height of the bars is about the same.
We make our tree with gauge holes or no gauge holes. We are also working on a tree for the 08/09 that will offer the same benefits. The prices for our trees are:

$274.95 no gauges
$328.95 1 gauge
$358.95 2 gauges

Hope this helps
 
it depends why u r lowering ur busa. In my case i lower it with a tripletree about 2 inches but i want to add racing straps. That way when i arrive to a place all i need to do is strap her down for another inch or 2. Straps work awesome for lowering ur bike and raising it to drive it around.
 
:thumbsup:

buy a tree for under 2 bills and you can lower it as much as you want and put it back and so forth and its easy and blingy if you get a nice one

With the triple tree or spacers from soupys, don't you need to loosen the 12mm bolts on the lower tree regardless? (the one that's hard to reach?
 
With the triple tree or spacers from soupys, don't you need to loosen the 12mm bolts on the lower tree regardless? (the one that's hard to reach?

If you talking about the ones that clamp the lower tree to the tubes,then the answer is yes. Strapping it is only way to lower the front without touching those. However not advised for street riding. Track use only. Reason is the wear and "Tear" on the straps.

The Bolts aren't that hard to get to. I did mine with everything still attached up front.
 
I've mounted an after market top triple tree cover to allow the tubes to pass through the top tree, so i'm ready to drop mine. How can i best assure every thing is lowered evenly?
 
I've mounted an after market top triple tree cover to allow the tubes to pass through the top tree, so i'm ready to drop mine. How can i best assure every thing is lowered evenly?

Mark(permanent marker is fine,they won't be noticed) the tubes at the top of the "Lower" triple tree clamp before you loosen anything. Loosen the bolts.Don't need to totally loosen them,just enough to let tubes slide. Let the tubes move to where you want them. Measure the marks to make sure they even distance from the lower tree. Tighten her back up. Don't over tighten them. Forget the rated torque spec.

Pretty much all general info you'll need is in this section of the forums. Just gotta poke around a bit...

Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself - Hayabusa.oRg
 
I just bought an upper steering bar clamp (it is not really the upper triple clamp as it bolts to the upper triple clamp) from Roaring toyz so I could lower the front. Nice unit and looks great costs about $220ish. but I notices from the design of it that if instead you remove the stock bars clamps and took it to a machine shop and had the hole opened up so the forks could pass through you could accomplish the same thing for alot less money, at least I am guessing the machine work would be less than the cost of a new unit. Since I have bought it I will go ahead and install it this weekend but wish I had thought of it before I bought the new unit, could have saved the money for a new kickstand or fork plugs.
 
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Mark(permanent marker is fine,they won't be noticed) the tubes at the top of the "Lower" triple tree clamp before you loosen anything. Loosen the bolts.Don't need to totally loosen them,just enough to let tubes slide. Let the tubes move to where you want them. Measure the marks to make sure they even distance from the lower tree. Tighten her back up. Don't over tighten them. Forget the rated torque spec.

Pretty much all general info you'll need is in this section of the forums. Just gotta poke around a bit...

Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself - Hayabusa.oRg

Just one additional through of that procedure. Instead of marking you can measure from the clamp with a six inch ruler how far each fork protrudes through the clamp to get them exactly even, then to make sure there is no binding. remove the front wheel and axle, then see if the axle will smoothly and without much force go through both fork mounting holes. If there is binding then adjust the fork leg accordingly otherwise the fork action and wear might not be even. This is what I do on my race bike when reinstalling the forks and it works well.
 
but I notices from the design of it that if instead you remove the stock bars clamps and took it to a machine shop and had the hole opened up so the forks could pass through you could accomplish the same thing for alot less money, at least I am guessing the machine work would be less than the cost of a new unit.


I went back and rechecked this and infact you cannot make this mod because the factory positioning of the bar mounts are in the way, there would not be enough meat left to hold the bar. Too bad, but wanted to clear the record on the statement above.
 
I would avoid a chrome or polished aftermarket tree, they work like a mirror on a sunny day. I ended up blacking mine out.
 
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